If any of you are familiar with my trip reports, you'll know that they're the length of novellas, and full of less doing and eating and more feeling. Pictures will hopefully come up this weekend.

Saturday, May 17: Day 1 - Traveling and Marina Cay

In the Denver airport waiting for the red-eye, I realized how much I needed this vacation, as a time to get healthy and to build up for a work-packed month of June. The Shoe Bomber had no idea of the impact he would have on us red-eye travelers – no pre-flight sippy cups of happy beverages from home.

My favorite part of the flights is when I can see the Bahamas below me – that first glimpse of turquoise water and brilliant white sand, albeit from 30000 feet. I dozed a lot on the flights and for about 1.5 hours in the Atlanta airport. This was probably one of the smoothest trips I’ve had in a great while. Arrived in San Juan early enough to catch an earlier Cape Air flight to Tortola, with a group of Coloradoans, no less. So far, I have never merited the co-pilot seat, but at least this time I was right behind – I’m moving up! Excellent views of Vieques and Culebra from the right side of the plane.

We arrived just ahead of a large American Eagle flight and C&I was a breeze. I stopped at the liquor store to pick up a bottle of Callwood’s Rum and walked over to the CyberCafe for that wonderful first Carib. Sadly, the outside ice chests are no more, but they do now have a lovely cabinet cooler inside. After making friends with some very wet local dogs, I wandered down to the dock to wait for the Marina Cay ferry. Two local guys relaxing on an out of commission ferry boat invited me into the shade and it was lovely chatting and getting my ear reaccustomed to the patois. The only time I had any trouble with bug bites was in Trellis Bay – I had forgotten that I had had the same experience twice before. But for me, if I don’t scratch them, even the worst will vanish in a few hours.

Coincidentally, a couple who disembarked from the Marina Cay ferry were the same couple that I had an after-dinner drink at Anegada Reef Hotel with last November – they recalled me – such a small world.

Upon arrival at Marina Cay, I was delighted to find multi-hued lizards, cats and dear Alison. She upgraded me to the Jasmine villa and we had a wonderful long talk. Jasmine villa is slightly smaller than Oleander, and has a lovely outdoor shower, private-ish patio and balcony. I had only spent single nights on Marina Cay before, and it was never enough, so for this trip I’ve made it two nights (and now in November it will be three, because two wasn’t enough either.) With the sound of waves breaking on the reef, the gulls laughing gleefully, the breezes brushing the ferns, coming back feels more like coming home than anything else.

Dinner at Marina Cay was very nice and quiet – pasta with lemon, basil and chicken, key lime pie (this was the only time I could find key lime pie the whole trip, and so it was the only time I ate dessert) – and John the restaurant manager was totally charming.

Lesson of the day: Don’t forget the Afterbite.

Sunday, May 18: Day 2 - Marina Cay/Tortola

Awoke to sunrise through the open French doors of my bedroom. A lovely morning, and lovely to know that I don’t have to do anything if I don’t want to. Well on my way to total decompression and that feeling that my blood has been replaced with warm honey and I haven’t even been here 24 hours! Breakfast of Huevos Rancheros (which is actually a breakfast burrito). Wandered the island taking pictures and explored the shop. Ferried over to Trellis Bay, bought sunscreen at the well-stocked little Market, and poked around Aragorn’s – there are numerous adorable kittens, three fireballs in the water and a massive hammock that looks like it would hold ten people. Picked up a Carib and walked to Long Bay East – it was a very hot walk (high noon), but quite pleasant. Spent the afternoon there, reading and swimming in the cool blue water. The only other people there were local folks and I had my little stretch of beach all to myself. As I was leaving, who should appear but the same couple from the ferry yesterday and Anegada six months ago – who is following who? The walk back seemed shorter as walks back usually do, and I detoured to check out a beautiful slice of beach that I’d seen from the road – it wound up being right by SurfSong. A cut through the airport parking lot took almost 10 minutes off the walk, and with another beer in hand, I ferried back with a group of 6th graders off for an afternoon at Marina Cay to celebrate the end of examinations.
My outdoor shower was most welcome, though I was startled by a couple who came onto my patio as I was washing my hair; they appeared to be much more embarrassed than I (they were British), and crept away, hoping I hadn’t noticed them. Moving one of the cushier chairs out to the patio, I basked and dried my hair in the sun, wearing my favorite red sarong and listening to a mourning dove coo, letting the ferns tickle my toes.

On the way down to dinner, I chatted with Sadie from DiveBVI and island cat Tess, and was pleasantly startled by beautiful blue-green hummingbirds. Had a long enjoyable visit with Beatrice and Stephane from Paris who have been sailing the Caribbean in their 25 foot boat for the past 5 years. They hope to buy a bigger boat. Dinner was a simple grilled snapper recommended by John and absolutely delicious. He and I sat on the beach for a while and watched a UFO zing across the sky – at least we both saw it, which means either we’re both crazy or both sane – probably doesn’t make much difference. After dinner it was back to my balcony for some moonlight and a nightcap. A lovely sleep with all the doors and windows open wide.

Quote of the day: (from a little English girl walking along the beach at Long Bay East with her parents): “I want to go to China, where everything is made of china, even my hair, even my snorkel, even Santa Claus, even Mummy’s top.”

Monday, May 19 - Day 3 – Marina Cay, shifting to Anegada

Lots of boats in Trellis Bay for the Full Moon Party tonight, which I will once again miss, as it’s Monday and time to turn to for Anegada. One of these days, my timing will be spot on. I was the only one for breakfast – cheese omelet – but I was closely overseen by a rather assertive seagull. I started to feel like something out of a Hitchcock movie, so breakfasted rather speedily. I basked on my balcony, reluctant to leave, but finally did, after goodbyes to Alison and John. My telescoping handle on my bag refused to telescope any more. How did we all ever manage when we actually had to carry our luggage? I’ll bet we were in better shape. Lugged myself and it to Trellis Bay and bought my daughter an Aragorn T-shirt.

Brother Bob was my taxi driver to Roadtown. We discussed American politics (!! – not sure I really want to be reminded - !!), women, and the tourism industry and growth on the island. It’s clear that the taxi drivers gain the most benefit from the cruise ship business. Leaving my bag at the Ferry Dock, I went in search of a camera store for a new memory card (there’s a certain irony in forgetting a spare memory card) and found two camera shops on old Main Street, an area of Roadtown that I’d never visited before. Wandered through the galleries, having some long chats with some of the shopgirls, and wound up at Capriccio Di Mare for lunch – it was a glass of champagne (complete with a fly would couldn’t resist it) and Pasta Puttanesca for lunch. Pretty good, but my Puttanesca sauce is so much better. Finished the third book of the trip and still had time to kill, so I walked through Crafts Alive village, another place I’d never been. While the cottages are prettily painted, it doesn’t feel like it has much life or soul to it. Kind of sad, when you know what uniqueness and special energy is available in this culture. Finished murdering time with a beer at Pussers.

The ferry ride was warm and beautiful, and Dean Wheatley was there to greet me at the dock. I was pleased to have the same little jeep I had last year – the radio falls out when you drive on the inner island road, and it makes interesting grunting sounds from time to time. And as a new quirk, the windshield wipers will turn themselves on and off when they feel like it. But I truly do love the little jeep – I think it reminds me of myself.

Onto Neptune’s, like coming home. Wonderful to see Linda. As I was unpacking in my usual room (#6 – MY jeep, MY room, it really is like home), I realized I had left my favorite nightgown and the legs to my transformer pants in a drawer at Marina Cay. I am ordinarily a surface dweller, so when I put something in a drawer, it might as well have shifted into another dimension. But upon calling, they were very sweet and promised to send my things over on the ferry later in the week. (That didn’t work out, but my legs and lingerie did arrive in Colorado about a week after I did – thanks to all!) Dinner this first night was with Kelly, Sue and Zach, the Iguana people who had come over on the ferry with me. I had met Kelly last November and most unfortunately introduced her to absinthe at Cow Wreck. I’m not at liberty to divulge the resultant tale of woe, but suffice it to say, she remembered me quite well. (Again, I’m REALLY sorry, Kelly.) Dinner - mashed potatoes, steamed broccoli, and seared tuna a la Big Jim with wasabi sauce - and the company were wonderful.

Quote of the day: “Anegada is not for wimps.”

Tuesday, May 20: Day 4 – Here in the Home of My Heart, Anegada

Didn’t sleep well, especially since I had to get up to close the jeep windows when a sudden rain passed through. I won’t make that mistake again. But there was a spectacular rainbow over the anchorage in the morning, and I know I can always nap later. Cheryl and Pete were up on their balcony and it was wonderful seeing them again. Finally, here, I can realize how profoundly tired I am and really recover. The sound of crickets has replaced the raucous cries of the gulls at Marina Cay (I believe they were nesting in the growth there, and they started in at sunrise.) In honor of my vegetarian daughter, I have not had any red meat on this trip, and feel much lighter and clearer. Breakfast and chatting with Letty and Gary and Cheryl and Pete and then it’s off for the day. A first stop at Pomato Point is always called for. They seem to have lost some beach from the swells, but that’s the thing about the beach, it’ll probably be back. Someone has set up two pieces of coral on the white table – a nice photo op.

If you explore the unknown spots of Anegada, you will be rewarded with unexpected gifts – such as a little alter of bleached conch, coral and driftwood posed by the sea at the end of a spur off the road.

At Cow Wreck, I was so pleased to find Bell and Alex. I settled myself in MY spot on the beach, and took care of some emotional business that I had been saving for here. Cow Wreck is nothing if not healing. Spent the afternoon with Cheryl and Pete, John and Patty, doing nothing, which is what you’re supposed to do on vacation, and laughing a lot. Home for a shower, a quick Dark and Stormy and back to Cow Wreck for dinner with RichC and CaribJohn, two of my favorite people in the world. They gave me a tour of Hidden Treasure, which is absolutely beautiful. Spent time talking with Misty about our respective daughters (I do miss mine) until it was time to go home.

Upon arrival at Neptune’s, I spent a little while with the couple from St. John who had infamously gone night snorkeling at Cow Wreck the previous evening and had become the talk of the island, and their very drunk friend, who proceeded to come knocking on my door in the wee hours. Uh – no. Not EVEN if. One of the minor perils of the lone female traveler. And another night’s sleep interrupted. Good thing I can take naps down here – it’s the only place I can.

Quote of the day: Yee-ha!

Wednesday, May 21: Day 5 – Life and Death on Anegada

Up fairly early to give Alex a ride to Cow Wreck from the Settlement. Nice to be able to do some little thing for the people I’m so fond of here. And he was shocked that I was on time, not on island time. One of the Cow Wreck cows wasn’t feeling too well – it was a reminder that on this island, as on all, nature will take its course and is what it is.

It’s very hot here, the hottest I ever recall in my 4 years of coming down. Depending on the size of the swimsuit, it takes a long time to apply the sunscreen. Sat and watched the clouds. It was ‘crowded’ at Cow Wreck today – I laugh at myself when I think that. But at any rate, I have decided to go exploring tomorrow. For today, though, I stored up that memory to recall on cold Colorado nights of standing in water so clear it is practically colorless, able to see my feet, and then floating, looking out at the small shimmering wavelets of turquoise, blue and silver, and then sitting, becoming nut brown, warm from the inside out and very happy.

Took a long walk around the point and played with the flock of birds, including a sentinel pelican and two yellow-footed boobys.

Back at the bar, I started talking with beautiful Paddy, the artist who did the mural on the doors at Neptune’s and wound up having dinner with her. What a wonderful woman – and we had some amazing talks. Drinks with Cheryl and Pete and newcomers Sarah and Basil. Dean Wheatley happened to be at Neptune’s and we decided just to take the radio out of the jeep – easier than holding it in place all the time or having it molest my shins as it plunges to the floor. I’m usually singing at the top of my lungs in the jeep anyway.

Lesson of the day (well, of the previous day, actually): Sand burrs are bad enough in your feet; do not get them in your shorts.

Thursday, May 22: Day 6 – The Hunt is On.

Breakfast and a good talk with Letty and Gary about all topics under the sun. Stopped for a little bit of shopping at ARH gift shop and to pick up some beverages at Lil Bit for my beach hike. Gave Wendell a ride to Big Bamboo and headed on to Flash of Beauty to go in search of some privacy and Coopers Rock, the supposed ‘secret’ beach. It was about a 30 minute walk from FOB, and the terrain reminded me of Anguilla, with puzzling volcanic-looking rocks and curious fossilized shells and giant bugs. Found beautiful little teeny seashells along the way, some things I’d never seen before. And it was hot. Hot. Hot. SO hot. Did I mention it was hot?

I settled myself in the sand and read for a while. Wendell discovered me and we hung out for a couple of hours – I got a little sunburned but not too bad. Although I’ve never sunburned my lips before. It was a very nice day. The walk back was a little cooler and (again) felt shorter. Took the back road to Cow Wreck and read, swam, indulged in rum, hung with Cheryl and Pete and drank in the amazing full rainbow – one end in the sea, one end on Anegada, as it should be. And, uncustomary for me, I didn’t take pictures – just watched.

Home, showered and walked along the beach to ARH for dinner, climbing a couple of stiles and docks along the way. Dinner: a small salad with green olives (yum), steamed veggies (yum), bread (yum), baked potato (yum) and wahoo (rather dry). They played good music to which I enjoyed bopping along, and chatted briefly with some charterers from Colorado before wandering back down the darkened beach.

Lesson of the day: You cannot find an aloe plant in the dark at Neptune’s if you do not know where an aloe plant is growing, but you will find all kinds of other bushes, some none too comfy.

Friday, May 23: Day 7 – Follow the telephone poles

Stopped to shop at the Purple Turtle after breakfast and gas up the jeep. Sue has created lovely gardens around the shop – they get prettier every year. And I made friends with the gas station kitty. Headed into the Settlement to take some photos, but for some reason I feel shy about doing so – I don’t want to intrude. I sought out another empty beach off the old Cow Wreck Beach road. It was nice and remote, with silvery greenery, but hotter than ever, and it smelled a little funky and the sand in the water was a bit slimy, so I didn’t stay long. I encountered the donkeys along to way to my next spot.

Back to my usual Cow Wreck haunt, and planned to have dinner with John and Rich, but Bell was making them a special turtle stew, so I had a delightful dinner with Gary and Letty at Neptune’s – tuna with a curry mayonnaise. The power went out about 4:00 am and the generator kicked. It happens. Welcome to the Caribbean.

Wet and stinky lesson of the day: The gas pump at the petrol station on Anegada does NOT have an automatic shut-off.

Saturday, May 24: Day 8 - Turquoise Days, Green Nights

Finished my book in bed this morning. Lobster omelet for breakfast, the first time I’ve tried it - since so many have raved about it – but no, not for me. Give me my bacon and cheese omelet (that’s the only meat I’ve had this trip) and I will be a happy girl. Hung out in the lovely hammock at Neptune’s for a while (I think it’s a new one – it’s very nice.) Did a little bit more shopping at ARH and off to Cow Wreck. That dim awareness that time is winding down is scratching at the door of my mind; Rich and John are to leave tomorrow and I will miss them. But being in the now, with the sun and the good tunes from Alex’s iPod, the view of the sea, the sound of the girls playing with two giant pink and yellow inflatable animals in the water, the breeze in the palms – well, all is right with the world right now.

Sir Richard’s party appeared for lunch. They all seemed very nice and had a good time. His helicopter buzzed the beach a couple of times.

Home, showered, made myself beautiful. Stopped into the bar and talked with Randy for a while. Met the newcomers Frank from St. John and his brother-in-law Russ from Colorado Springs. Then back to Cow Wreck for a wonderful (farewell) (sniff) snapper dinner with my boys, and a spectacular sunset to see them off. Rich put out the lines and Wendell brought out his big light for some night fishing, but the fish were too smart for them this time. So it was an absinthe-drinking, beach walking, Southern Cross gazing, moonrise watching magical evening.

Lesson of the day: Absinthe is good for the soul.

Sunday, May 25: Day 9 – The Leavin’ Anegada Last Day Blues

Up and moving albeit a little slowly. The dreaded time to pack has come. Just before turning into the gates at Neptune’s coming home last night, was a cat that had been struck by a car and killed. I wrapped him in a towel and set him inside the gate, giving his little soul a final head scritch. Randy was kind enough to bury him this morning.

I find I am almost ready to go. I feel lush, filleted, full and empty at the same time. I am saturated with relaxation. Complete decompression has been achieved. Off to Cow Wreck, had lunch with Frank and Russ. My boys left and we all cried – my own tears took me by surprise. I left Cow Wreck shortly after they did. Cleaned up, packed the stray object, and had a light cocktail. There was a single flamingo out on the reef by Neptune’s. So very cool! We all speculated as to whether it had been kicked out by its flamingo spouse, or if it was lost, or just needed a change of scene. Linda and I both went out and took pictures of it; she walked quite a ways out to the reef to get closer. The sunset was a giant red ball seeking behind the trees.

Dinner was amazing fresh-caught bluefin tuna that tasted like nothing I’d ever had before, like I would imagine food in heaven might taste, at my favorite little old wooden two-top table. I had a minor cry, as usual. At least they know what to do with me on my last night. Chatted a bit with Frank and Russ, and took a walk on the beach. The Sahara haze which had completely obliterated any view of the other islands, making us feel like we’d been picked up and set down some place even more remote, lifted and the Southern Cross was again visible.

Lesson of the day: All goodbyes are temporary.

Monday, May 26: Day 10 – I’m Going Home

Up early, no breakfast for me today. Had a nice talk with Mark-he’s one of my favorite sons. Said goodbyes to Letty and Gary – will miss them, too. Gary, hold on tight. Dropped the car at the ferry dock for Dean to pick up. Frank and Russ were on the ferry back with me. I was kind of sleepy and queasy, even though I was outside. But the ferry took longer than usual, and I missed the ferry that I needed to take to get to STT in time for my flight. Borrowing Russ’ phone, I tried all the airlines, all the routes, and on my last shot, I got on a later flight out of STT that would still connect me with my flight in Atlanta. (And thanks for that Snickers, Russ – not eating breakfast was a big mistake.) For a price, of course, that negated the well-priced ticket I had, but I really needed to get home. So three ferries, a taxi and two plane rides later, I am home. But there were two dolphins playing beside me on the ferry from Roadtown, just to say goodbye.

Lesson of the day: Don’t expect to catch a flight out of STT any earlier than 4:00 pm if you are coming from Anegada on the same day.

Parting thoughts:

It feels like I’ve been gone a month, not 10 days. This was the best land-based trip I’ve ever had. Marina Cay is marvelous and Anegada is a good place to come to terms with yourself. It’s a good place to feel healthy and sensual. I needed it. And I will need it again in November, for which I already have tickets and have added an extra day. It may not be for everyone (a previous trip report here and on TripAdvisor was much discussed by all), but it is home for me.