Since I visited multiple islands this time, the trip report is broken into two parts: Pre-Tortola and Tortola. It also includes a review of the Music Fest.
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PRE-TORTOLASaturday, May 17[/color]
Took Delta non-stop to St. Maarten from ATL. Final destination: the lovely island of Anguilla. No incidents except that SXM baggage claim is slow as molasses, even more so than STT. But the SXM airport is one of the nicest that I’ve been to in the Caribbean. My friend, Tony, arranged for one of the private charters, Fun Time, to ferry me to Anguilla, which is a 20 minute boat ride from the harbor located across from the airport. Definitely the way to travel. Customs was a breeze since there were only three passengers including me on the charter.
Anguilla highlights during my five day stay:
- Spent my days sunning at the Mallihouana Hotel and Spa as a guest of a manager friend. The beach was spectacular – powdery sand and clear turquoise water. Also indulged in a 90 minute hot stone massage. I just melted.
- Had a wonderful lobster dinner and warm chocolate cake to die for at Mangos Seaside Grill. Dave, the owner, is a hoot. He’s featured in Forbes this month.
- Had lunch at Scilly Cay, a very small island off the coast of Anguilla. You take a free small boat to get there. No electricity so they grill everything. They are known for their grilled lobster and crayfish. I had the crayfish with garlic butter, fresh pasta salad and garlic bread. Delicious! They are also known for their potent rum punch.
- Visited Cap Juluca and CusinArt Resort for drinks and a tour. First class all the way. I can see why the celebrities choose these resorts – very luxurious.
- Tasty’s Restaurant serves a great breakfast. Heard the dinners were just as good but didn’t get a chance to eat there in the evening.
- Hungry’s Food Van makes a mean seafood quesadilla. Big chunks of lobster, shrimp, fish, vegetables and cheese.
- Had several dinners with a good friend. His relatives would go diving and bring him freshly caught fish to cook. He is an awesome cook. I had grilled spicy grouper one night; broiled crayfish and grilled snapper the next. He figured out that good food is one of the quickest ways to my heart. He may be a keeper!
- Visited the Sandy Ground area and bar hopped at the various bars (Elvis’, Ripples and Roadwell) that ran along the beach.
After reading the above, it looks like all I did was eat, eat, eat! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/dine.gif" alt="" /> Overall, I fell in love with Anguilla. It’s very similar to Tortola in terms of being small and laid-back but its much more upscale with its five-star properties and fine dining. It’s on the pricey side so buyer beware. Scilly Cay strikes you as a cute little beach bar but lunch will run you about $50-60/pp. Anguilla is not as green as Tortola – more desert-like and flat. I found the people to be very friendly and they have much love for their island. I will be attending their Summer Festival in August as opposed to my yearly trip to Tortola for their Festival, which happens to fall at the same time. Just switchin’ it up a bit this time plus many of my friends from Tortola will be attending as well.
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TORTOLAThursday, May 22[/color]
Tony and I took the 20 minute ferry ride to Marigot in SXM and hopped a cab to the airport. After a surprisingly nice lunch at a restaurant in the SXM airport, we took a LIAT flight to EIS. Forty minutes later, we were in fabulous Tortola! Customs was an exercise in patience. Tony picked up the rental car (more about the car later) and we were on our way to check into our respective hotels. I dropped my things at the Elm, kissed Jackie and Tony (the cook) hello, and we went on to the Sugar Mill where Tony was staying. This was the first time I’d been to the Sugar Mill and I was very impressed with his room, which was a Plantation House suite with a hammock on the balcony. It was lovely. I have to keep this place in mind when I come back again.
We picked up some groceries at Bobby’s in town and made our way to Spaghetti Junction for dinner. Ran into my good friend, David Archer, while eating dinner. After dinner, we headed back to the CGB so I could put the groceries up in my room at the Elm. On the way there, we passed the roadside restaurant/bar located outside Rhymers which was filled with a lot of my friends so we had to stop and have drinks with them. Then it was back to the hotel around 1:30AM to rest up for the Music Fest!
About the rental car: Tony rented a SUV, a burgundy Trailblazer, from Hertz. This truck had issues. First, there was a problem with the power steering as it would lock sometimes while turning. Then, the a/c was blowing cold in the front but hot in the back of the truck. Last, it was roach infested! We noticed later that night that small roaches were coming out of the seats. Ewww! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" /> Hertz replaced the truck the next morning.
Elm Beach Suites: Great, wonderful, perfect as always! No complaints at all. It was good to see Elvet, Jackie, Steve and Tony. I will always be a supporter of the Elm as it continues to be one of my favorite places to stay in CGB.
[color:"blue"]Friday, May 23[/color]
Woke up to a beautiful morning. I had a late breakfast at the Big Banana and watched the preparations for the Music Fest. Finally got to see Elvet and catch up with him. Stopped in Rhymers and hung out with some of the radio personalities to pass the time. One of them even put me on the radio – hilarious! Watched the sound check for the El A Kru, the headliner for that night. I enjoyed their music. I also avored my precious time alone on the beach, swimming and sunning, because I knew that once tonite started, times like this would be few and far between.
Tony and I set-up a small bar in my room for my friends who would be stopping through and I made my famous Pina Coladas. For the next three nights, my room (especially the front porch) was THE gathering spot for all of my friends during the concerts. If they weren't eating Tony's famous BBQ or partaking of the bar, they were catching quick naps on the porch or in the living room area.
[color:"red"]Friday Music Fest Review:[/color]
Friday night didn’t have the big crowds as in the past but, overall, the Soca/Calypso bands were very good. I especially enjoyed the El A Kru. After the concert that night, we headed up to Quitos and partied until 4:30AM.
[color:"blue"]Saturday, May 24[/color]
Woke up about 10:00AM. I was barely in the shower when my first visitors of the day - Sam, Kaletha, their adorable son Nicholas, and Solo - showed up so they could spend the day with me. After lounging in my room a bit, we headed over to the Big Banana for lunch. We were lucky to see Junior Gong do his sound check on stage. I swear, the entire beach came over to watch him perform. I couldn’t wait for his performance that night. Spent most of the day on the beach until it was time to get ready for that night’s entertainment. I made my special Jamaican Martinis in lighted martini glasses that I brought from home in honor of the night.
[color:"red"]Saturday Music Fest Review:[/color]
Saturday, which is Reggae night, always draws the biggest crowds. Quito and The Edge gave a wonderful performance as well as Junior Gong (Damian Marley), who I really enjoyed. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> I have to get Quito’s new CD. Beenie Man was awful as usual. This is the second time he has performed in the BVI and he always gets negative reviews. From reading the latest in the BVI News, he will not be back to perform at any BVI festivals again if the Festival and Affairs Committee has anything to do with it. I was dreading the Roses and Champagne Fashion Show which, IMHO, has been tacky in the past but they really stepped it up this year. The models were more professional and the production was more tasteful. Kudos to them! Again, after the concert, I headed over to Quito’s where I partied hard until 5:30AM.
[color:"blue"]Sunday, May 25[/color]
Before I stumbled into bed after leaving Quito’s that morning, I turned off my phone and I left a message on the door for anyone who would come by my room and attempt to wake me:
“Got in at 5:30AM. Out cold. Please let me sleep. Thank you!” <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />
Needless to say, my friends got a kick out of it and complied with my wishes. It was the day of the Leverick Bay Poker Run so I couldn’t sleep in like I really wanted to. Plus I wanted to get a little packing in because I was leaving tomorrow. Around noon, I headed over to the CGB dock with some friends so we could take a powerboat over to Leverick Bay, along with four other boats. The ride over was exhilarating and my drowsiness quickly left. When we got to Leverick, we laid claim to some tables across from the marina so we had a great view of the boats coming in. One of the popular speed boats, Big Pimpin’, flew by at top speed, putting on a show for everyone. We stayed there until dusk – eating, drinking, socializing. The crowd was HUGE! We also saw a very disorganized but fun fashion show over the pool. I had a wonderful time and will certainly be back next year. Then it was back to CGB to quickly change for that night’s final show.
[color:"red"]Sunday Music Fest Review:[/color]
The R&B night is always my favorite night because that’s what I grew up on. Got back in time from the Poker Run to see En Vogue and Jeffrey Osbourne. They sound as good as they did in the 90’s. I really enjoyed their performances. In between performances, DJ Commodore had the crowd dancing to the old-school R&B tunes. A perfect ending to what I think was one of the nicest Music Fests that I have attended. I really hope that the organizers are able to keep the Music Fest in CGB next year. The location is what really makes it special. And, no, I didn't go out that night!
[color:"blue"]Monday, May 26[/color]
I woke up exhausted, dreading the long travel day that awaited me and longing for my bed at home. I finished up my packing and waited for Sam and Kaletha take me to WE so I could catch the 12:00 ferry to CA. When I attended the Music Fests in the past, I usually stayed at least one more day in Tortola just to relax. I’ve never left the day after the Fest, and I will never do that again. The WE ferry terminal was a madhouse – people everywhere!!! Native Son (which I try my best never to take) tried one of their bait and switch tactics with me which didn’t work. I wanted to take Smith’s to CA because they are non-stop. Native Son stops at Red Hook first, then CA. The baggage handler for Native Son tried to tell me that their ferry was non-stop to CA and proceeded to take my bags without my asking. I firmly told him to give me back my bags as I was taking Smiths. I was tired, hot and not in the mood. He dropped my bags where he stood, looked at me and walked away. This is why I don’t bother with Native Son. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/cloud.gif" alt="" /> Smith’s was relatively uncrowded. The bulk of the crowd was going to Red Hook on Native Son. As soon as I got on the ferry, I took out my travel pillow and fell asleep which is a first. I usually watch the islands go by but all I saw were the inside of my eyelids this trip.
Customs went quickly at CA and I was soon in a taxi on the way to the airport. There were barely any lines at the airport so I was thrilled about that, as tired as I was. I had lunch at the airport and waited for my 4:30PM flight back to Atlanta. I slept the entire flight. We landed in ATL 30 minutes early. Even though I really wanted to be back in the islands, I couldn’t wait to pull into the garage at home. Ah, home at last!
This was one of my best trips ever. I’m glad I accepted Tony’s invitation to come to Anguilla. It is truly a beautiful island with generous and warm people. Then going to Tortola, attending the Music Fest and seeing all of my friends was the cherry on top. Now the countdown is on until my next trip: exactly eight weeks from today!
