The Return to the BVI

(Apologies in advance if this is long. I am a journal-maniac on my journeys.)

It was January 2002 the last time we sailed the BVI; so a very long break with some really cool trips in the interim. We are two couples, all on the plus side of 50, been friends for over 20 years.

Flying from Denver requires an overnight stop somewhere, which was Dulles for us. On to the next morning to San Juan, collect our bags and head to Air Sunshine for our flight over to Beef Island. Now while the folks at Air Sunshine could think about getting a computer instead of hand writing everything, they were quite nice and very helpful. We knew we were on island time when they told us the flight would be making a couple of extra stops en route (don’t here United say that very often!) – Vieques PR and Virgin Gorda.

The added stops along the way added to our excitement seeing all the islands, bays and harbors we would be seeing over the next few days. Landing on the dirt strip on Virgin Gorda was pretty cool, what great views coming in. Our pilot lands flawlessly, taxis us to the terminal and informs us that since this is the first port of entry, we need to clear immigration here. There were a grand total of five of us. So sweet, taking all of maybe five minutes to clear in.

Back on the plane to Beef Island, where an American Eagle flight had just landed. All those folks were in line to clear in; we were escorted through the “Belongers” line right to baggage claim. That was very cool. A+ for Air Sunshine – less expensive, less hassles and great scenery along the way.

Caught a taxi over to the BareCat base in Sea Cows Bay where we greeted by Tom. He poked fun at us right away because of all the crap we drug along with us (ya I know, half the stuff, twice the money). We drug our gear on board HoneyCat, an Island Spirit 401 owned by Greg and Elaine Gerken. We were (key word “were”) catamaran virgins and were blown away at the space. After stowing our stuff, we joined Tom on the veranda of the BareCat World Headquarters for beers and story telling. Great way to kick off our trip. Dinner at The Pub, got a little overserved with painkillers and headed back to the base.

Next morning, Tom ran us through the boat and chart briefing. Our wives ran off to Bobby’s to get the last few things we needed that we did not have delivered. We were off the dock around 10:00. Sails up (God bless than person that invented the electric winch) and motor sailed to Norman Island. Hit the Bight, grabbed a mooring and headed ashore. Paid our fees at Pirates, had a couple of cocktails and then headed back to tidy up for dinner ashore.

Thursday morning, sailed out of The Bight and over to Peter Island. We sat on our hook in Deadman’s Bay, jumped in the water and snorkeled a bit. Anchor up and we sailed on to Marina Cay. Grabbed a mooring again (I can’t believe how easy that is on a cat) ran into pay up. Dinghy dock was a bit crowded, helped a couple of guys wedge their dinghy in. Turns out it was the main reason we came here – Michael Beans and his Dad were just coming ashore. We chatted with him for a few minutes. He told us to get there early so we would be sitting up front.

We followed Mr. Beans’ advice, back to HoneyCat, ran through the shower and headed back in. Michael’s show was a blast. Some may say corny, but we had so much fun with the sing alongs, rum/trivia contest, pirate toasts. It was just a fun, fun evening. Had dinner there after Happy Arrrrr.

Friday morning, with winds pushing 18 knots, reefed the main and headed towards The Baths. As we got close we did not see a single boat and as we got closer saw the red flags. No biggie, we are on island time, so we cruised along just off shore taking it all in from a distance. Stopped near the entrance to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor on a ball, had some lunch. Sails back up and off to the North Sound.

Terrific sail past the Dogs, flying along around 8 knots. Winds were almost out of due east, so we dropped sail and motored on in.

I had arranged to take Nick up on his TTOL offer of using the dock for the same price as a mooring. Here is where we became Cat sailors. The slip we had required us to back in. After a couple of failed attempts (nothing crashed into by the way) David jumped on board and helped us out. We didn’t feel too bad, took him a couple of tries too!

That night we went to the famed Leverick Bay Beach Party and had a blast. Terrific buffet, live music and the amazing Jumbies. Ton of fun had by all, dancing on the beach, laughing till our sides hurt. Could not tell you what time we finally wandered back down the dock to the boat.

Saturday morning, we topped off our water tanks and set sail for Anegada. Nice reach all the way up, making 6 to 6.5 knots. I had the way points for the buoys in my handheld GPS expecting NOT to see any markers. Lo and behold, they have returned, right where they are supposed to be (with the exception of Red #2). Dropped sail, motored in and grabbed a mooring by Anegada Beach Hotel.

We decided to rent a car for the day. Headed over to Loblolly and had a cocktail at the Big Bamboo before going out to snorkel the reef. Wandered back, had another drink. We had not been to Cow Wreck, so that was our next stop. I now understand the love affair that folks have with this place. Lovely beach, cool bar and all the conch shells lining the place. Hung out there for a drink or two and decided to just drive around and sight see. We ended up over in the Settlement for a bit before we headed back. Had a very nice dinner at Anegada Beach Hotel before turning in for the night.

Sunday morning, good winds, 12 to 14 knots for 5 hour sail to Jost Van Dyke. Rounded Sandy Cay, dropped sails and motored into Great Harbor. Anchor set, breeze boosters in place, we headed ashore for a well deserved painkiller(s). Worked our way up the beach, from Foxy’s to Ali Babba’s. Made reservations at Corsairs for dinner. Had really good pizza there, got to meet Vinny, the owner. Vinny is from Denver and owns a very large motorcycle dealership. It was great to meet him. Genuine nice guy.

It must have been Colorado night there. We met a couple from Denver who were doing a crewed charter for their honeymoon. Greg & Melissa – I wish you a long and rewarding life together!

Monday we weighed anchor and took the really long trip around the point to White Bay. Dropped hook and headed to The Soggy Dollar. My wife and I spent some time with Sandy who works at Sandcastle. She was kind enough to show us around the grounds. My wife and I fell in love with the place and booked a stay there next May. I have the countdown running for that already!

After chilling there most of the day, we headed out to Cane Garden Bay. Monday night was Full Moon Party at Bomba’s - something we had missed in previous trips. By the time we got in, the moorings were all full, so we dropped anchor over on the southern part of the bay. While coming around to lay the anchor, folks from surrounding boats were screaming and waving like mad, warning us of a problem. After we got all squared away, we found out the specifics – a keel that had been ripped off a monohull. And judging from the size of the keel, it was a good size one too. Shortly after we checked our anchor out (and of course swimming over to look at this keel), a good Samaritan from a neighboring boat tied a water jug to it.

We headed ashore to grab a taxi to Bomba’s around 7:30 or so. The taxi drivers were funny, they asked why we were going so early. Eric Stone was the “warm up” act. He is someone I have listened to for a couple of years and I was anxious to hear him live and get to meet him. He is a really nice guy and spent a lot of time talking with us and signing autographs.

Had dinner there and as the main stage was revving up, Eric Stone was done. We hung for a while, but the “herbal aromas” in the air were a bit much. We pulled the plug around midnight and headed back to Cane Garden Bay.

Tuesday morning, nursing a couple of enlarged heads from the festivities the night before, was a bit slow. It was doing raining off and on (more off than on) for an hour or so. About the time we would get all the hatches closed, it would stop raining. Finally set sail around 10 or so, heading across to Diamond Cay and Foxy’s Taboo.

Grabbed one of the mooring balls there and scooted ashore. Grabbed a couple of roadsters for a walk back to Bubbly Pool. While we did not get in, the views were magnificent in all directions. Hung out there for a while and decided to head back and have lunch at Foxy’s Taboo. What a cool little place. Open air, amazing views, good chow. This is on the places to come back to list.

Motored over to Sandy Spit and spent the rest of the afternoon doing nothing there. Did a couple of laps around the island, snorkeled the reef – which was terrific and watched the pelicans dive bombing.

Packed up, weighed anchor and sailed on to Soper’s Hole for our last night on HoneyCat. On a mooring once again and had a very nice dinner at The Jolly Roger.

Wednesday morning, we topped off the fuel tanks (Diesel was $5.40/gallon) and sailed out. Were sailed all the way back to Sea Cows, making several tacks along the way and averaging 6.5 knots most of the way. HoneyCat accelerates out of tack like a gazelle. You can feel her surge once the sails are across and trimmed. FUN.

Sails down, fenders over the side and motored back into BareCat base. Tom met us, helped tie her up and was still giving us a hard time about all our stuff! What a good guy!! After dragging out stuff off and a debrief, we ended out journey with BareCat and HoneyCat the same we started – sitting on their porch drinking beer and telling stories.

We caught a taxi over to Cane Garden Bay for a couple of days of reacquainting ourselves with living on dirt again. We spend two lovely days at Elm Beach Suites. Nice little hotel, perfect location and just what the doctor ordered. Nothing extraordinary for the next two days, just laying on the beach, sipping painkillers from Stanleys, dinner at Myetts and Quitos. Our last night on the island Quito was playing solo, a first for us. That was great. I like his unplugged work a lot and now have his CD.

Friday morning up fairly early and off to Beef Island to do the Air Sunshine thing again. Once again we were informed that we needed to make a stop at Virgin Gorda then on to San Juan. No problem, mon…. Landing at SJU, cleared US I&M so quick it made our heads spin and then waited for flights back home.

In reflection – this trip was awesome. The weather was great, the winds good, only a couple of middle of the night hatch closing fire drills. HoneyCat (I know this sounds like a commercial for Gerken, but it isn’t) was a blast to sail. We have become Cat-converts for chartering. Setting your drink down while tacking and not having it spill is wonderful. Things inside the boat actually can sit on tables and counters and NOT on the deck. Coming into a mooring field or an anchorage is nearly effortless.

So my thanks to the many who offered suggestions and ideas. Thanks to the great staff at BareCat for kicking off our sail with casual professionalism. Thanks to the Gerkens for owning a great boat that others get to enjoy. Mostly thanks to the Belongers of the BVI for being gracious hosts.