Have just returned from what is becoming an annual event – Jazz Fest in New Orleans. Unlike last year’s hastily planned, last minute rush (i.e. the day before), this year’s visit was a bit longer in the making – a necessity if dining out is as much a priority as the music at the festival, since reservations at the top restaurants need to be secured well in advance.

The City: Jazz Fest, more so than Mardi Gras, is a great time to see New Orleans at its post-Katrina best. I’ve heard reports of the city feeling spooky and empty other times of the year, but during a festival weekend, it buzzes with life and activity.

We’d committed most of Friday to exploration (with all of Saturday and most of Sunday to attend the Fest). I chose not to cruise the French Quarter, which can be exceedingly dangerous for me, as I have a hard time resisting the siren song of the galleries. Instead, my husband and I took our charges – a pair of newbies from Chicago – to the streetcar, where we rode all the way from Canal Street to the riverbend, with my periodic narration. (It’s nice that the streetcar is fully back in operation, which it wasn’t the last two Jazz Fests.) We had lunch at Cooter Brown’s, a biker/student bar of which I have many fond (and not-so-fond) memories from my college days – Cooter’s has a huge collection of beers, and the small kitchen cranks out noteworthy po-boys and burgers.

We worked off lunch by walking along the levee all the way to Audubon Park, then through the park and back to the streetcar in front of the universities. We rode as far as Louisiana Avenue, and then walked back to Magazine Street to visit the many antique shops and galleries (and the occasional restaurant or bar). Then, back to the streetcar and Canal Street. We did venture onto Bourbon Street en route to our hotel, and our attention was captured by the sounds of a great blues performance in one of the bars (especially compared to the sounds coming from other bars), and stayed til the end of a set by Les Getrex.

The narrow slice of the city we explored, combined with the activity of a festival weekend, near perfect weather, and the fragrance of blooming flowers, could easily convince one that the city’s recovery is progressing (especially compared to past post-K visits). For a casual tourist, that is probably enough. The emptiness of the airport, and the relatively light traffic, suggest that there is a long way to go.

Our Hotel: We stayed at the Royal Sonesta, the main entrance of which is on Bourbon Street. It’s an oasis from the smelly and loud honky-tonk tawdriness of the FQ’s most infamous street. Based on past experience, I chose an interior room facing the pool courtyard rather than Bourbon Street, and was rewarded with (mostly) quiet nights. (To the people who though nothing of speaking in full voice as they walked down the hall at 4:30 in the morning as they rolled in off the street – I get it! You’re having a good time! – but shut up!). Our room could have used a little refreshing, but was otherwise comfortable and well-maintained. We had french doors giving out to a balcony, and then stairs down to the floral-festooned and scented pool deck, where we spent several mornings with our newspapers and Starbucks coffee (from the lobby) before venturing out for the day’s activities. For a hotel with lots of New Orleans character and a location in the thick of things, I highly recommend the Royal Sonesta.

Jazz Fest: The biggest complaint of this year’s Jazz Fest – if one can justly complain about an embarrassment of riches – was that there were just too many great acts, making the decision of which stage to visit at any given time agonizing. This year’s Fest was back up to its pre-K complement of 12 stages. One could camp out at any stage (bring your own chairs – we bought ours for $8.99 at Walgreen’s and cheaper than carrying them back and forth as checked luggage) and be happy for the entire day, but it’s the nagging knowledge that something good is happening on the other stages that leads to indecision and potential dissatisfaction. On Saturday night, half of our group stuck with the Acura Stage (the biggest) for the night’s closer, James Taylor, while my husband and I headed to the Gentilly Stage (the second-biggest) to check out Wilco. Sunday night was even more challenging, with our group fanning out to catch Dave Matthews Band, Etta James, and Earth, Wind and Fire – all performing at the same time. We managed to catch great performances from Sonny Landreth, Dumpstaphunk, Erma Thomas, Better than Ezra, etc. You just can’t go wrong, and for $40/day, it’s a great deal.

After the music, the food inside Jazz Fest is a huge attraction, and it’s reasonably priced. $10 or less will get you meal-sized sandwiches (the cochon de lait po-boy, as well as the softshell crab po-boy, are standouts), not to mention dozens of regional specialties like crawfish in any manner, shape or form you might imagine, alligator, catfish, oysters, etc. You will not find hamburgers or corn dogs or cotton candy … you’re in Louisiana, cher’!

As events in New Orleans go, Jazz Fest is particularly well-organized. The large crowds (not record-breaking, but substantial) were friendly and mellow. Getting to and from the Fairgrounds was an efficient affair. And all the basics were covered, with plenty of porta potties (albeit rather disgusting by the end of the day – hence the tip to bring tissues and hand sanitizer), first aid tents, and food and beverage. Jazz Fest may be a party attended mostly by New Orleanians, but they are more than happy to include anyone who wants to join in the festivities.

New Orleans Dining: While I know plenty of hardcore music fans who come to Jazz Fest JUST for the music, my group (me and my husband, a couple from Houston, and a pair from Chicago) also comes to New Orleans for the food. New Orleans, for a city its size, has a disproportionate share of great restaurants; and New Orleanians’ sense of style makes every meal an occasion. (While more casual attire is certainly accepted at the higher-end restaurants, it was fun to do as the locals do and really dress up.) Though many of our meals were catch-as-catch can, we also had planned dinners at Herbsaint, August and brunch at Commander’s Palace (a long-standing tradition with me and my Houston friends).

Herbsaint is located on St. Charles Avenue in the Central Business District. We enjoyed sitting outside on Friday evening, though the grumble of the regularly-passing streetcars got to be a bit much at times. Herbsaint focuses on local ingredients and offers twists on classics, with a dash of herbsaint (an absinthe-like concoction) here and there. The vast majority of what we ordered was excellent (shrimp/tomato/herbsaint bisque; crawfish; duck confit), with only one mildly disappointing entrée (veal stuffed with fontina and tasso).

Dinner at August was the highlight of our trip. This is the flagship restaurant of the darling of the New Orleans culinary scene, John Besh, who combines his classical training with local favorites. Our group ordered the chef’s degustation menu, which included 10-11 courses (plus an amuse bouche) with wine pairings. Though the portions (including the wine pours) were a bit generous for a tasting menu (who complains about that?), each offering was finely wrought and paired with a perfect wine accompaniment. At the end of the meal, everyone agreed that a white asparagus soup with crab salad and sous vide shrimp carpaccio was the standout. We were in an intimate room with just a few tables, with terrific and good-humored service. At the end of our dinner, we were invited into the kitchen (surprisingly small, and very hot) for a brief tour, and were then given printed copies of the night’s menu. Though pricey, for the quality and quantity of the food and wine, this meal was not only memorable but an excellent value.

Finally, Sunday brunch at the grand dame of New Orleans restaurants, Commander’s Palace. Holding court on a prime corner in the Garden District, across the street from an iconic New Orleans-style cemetery with above-ground crypts, Commander’s has been spruced up post-K, and offers a full-on Creole brunch extravaganza, complete with mimosas and Bloody Marys, a wandering jazz band, and festive décor. The food is quite rich and generous, so it’s important to leave room for the signature dessert of bread pudding soufflé with whiskey sauce. Unlike some long-standing traditions, the grandeur of this one has not faded over the 20+ years I’ve enjoyed it.

Conclusion: From the tourist’s vantage point, New Orleans continues to be open for business. They need us – so put away your hesitations, pick a festive weekend, and come on down! For the optimal New Orleans experience, Jazz Fest weekends (the last weekend of April, and the first weekend of May) can’t be beat.