This is a relatively detailed trip report (did I just hear a collective groan?) so be forewarned..........<br><br>We embarked to SXM this time with no pre-conceived plans, no itinerary, etc. We decided it would be more or less a week in which we wanted to just take things as they came, sit and veg on the beaches and more or less just escape and re-group from the events of the past month and a half.<br><br>The flights were fine and came off without a hitch. We were on the JFK/SXM non-stops, which seem to be the most painless if they are running in a timely fashion. The flight down on October 27 was packed, not a seat to be had. They even were asking for volunteers to give up seats and take later flights through SJU and also get $200 toward their next ticket. That offer wasn't attractive enough so we kept our traps shut (and consequently kept our seats). It was the first time I have flown since 9/11 and while not afraid to once again resume flying, my only trepidation was the anticipation of what type of airport experience we would encounter. We were pleasantly surprised. Yes, the lines were long; yes, they were much more thorough in their searches, but if you have nothing to hide you won't have a problem. All in all, a better experience than I thought would await us at the airport.<br><br>We checked into the Royal Islander and parked the car in the garage under the Maho Hotel. $5 every time you take the car out, except if you're staying at the Maho or the Islander, you can pay $15 for the entire week. Not a bad deal, considering parking in that area is at a premium. It's even more crowded than in the past, if that seems possible. I'm not wild about that aspect, but the Royal Islander is a fantastic property and arguably one of the best-run on the island.<br><br>BEACHES<br><br>Orient: Went three times to Orient. As has been posted here recently, the beach is virutally non-existent from Kon Tiki to the rock jetty. Some of the buildings are leaning a bit forward and look ready to take a header into the surf. Very sad. Had lunch a couple of times at Andy and Cheryl's and was told that not having the beach chair concession is really killing them. (Jamie and DannyB - my big mouth may have gotten you in trouble. Cheryl mentioned when you were down there that you went to Andy's surprise party and I said we saw the pictures and they came out great. Cheryl said (kiddingly) that she was going to give you a piece of her mind for not sending her copies. Oops! You may want to do that soon.)<br><br>Pinel: Got to the landing bright and early for the "aqua-shuttle" over to Pinel. Just as we were about to step into the boat, I looked up and muttered, "Oh, no........" Yep, two full busloads of cruisers pulled up and a sea of humanity descended upon us to get into the boats. We looked at each other and gave one another an "over my dead body" look and immediately headed back to the car. Next time for Pinel, I guess........<br><br>Baie Rouge: Went twice. The first time it was simply delightful and we had a great day. Ribs at Chez Raymond were fantastic and he told us to try a conch stew he had made. It was out of this world! Conch/scungilli can be a bit chewy, but this was oh so tender and delicious. He sat and had a drink with us this day because for some reason nobody (but us, of course) heeded his conch shell call up and down the beach announcing happy hour. We went back two days later and what a difference! I've seen Rouge on days where the shore break can be a bit of a challenge, but there were 8-ft. breakers smashing up onto the beach. It was a clear, windless day so my suspicion was that there was a storm (and a doozy at that) way to the north of SXM. We didn't stay because the waves were just too treacherous and it would've been dangerous entering or exiting the water.<br><br>Dawn Beach: Absolutely wonderful, as always. Parked ourself in front of Ms. B's and Alanna was her lovely and sweet self. The water there was great and some people were out on the reef snorkeling, as the wind wasn't at bad as it can get there sometimes. Those ribs and Alanna's sweet smile – always a very calming effect on Kevin.........<br><br>Mullet: I'm not a huge fan of Mullet Beach (or haven't been in the past), but this time was different. The water was fantastic and the beach was cleaner than I remembered it. It's been awhile, I guess, since I've taken the time to check it out. People have been complimenting it lately and I'm happy to report they are right. The beach there is lovely.<br><br>Cupecoy: Stopped at Cupecoy to see the state of the beach. Jackie stayed in the car and I walked down the path along the wall to see if it would be worth staying. Not much beach there – only the section at the far west end had any sand and the shore break and undertow looked way too high-maintenance for a relaxing day at the beach. With about 20 people already on the beach, I decided it would be a little too "cozy" due to the lack of sand and opted to tell Jackie we wouldn't be staying, not this time, anyway. On my way back to the car, a guy jumped out of the bushes (and I nearly jumped out of my skin) in the path and asked if I needed any drugs or maybe a boy to help me enjoy my vacation. I graciously thanked him on both counts for his kind offer(s) and informed him that no, in fact, I would not be requiring either of the above to enjoy my vacation and continued (a little more quickly, I might add) on my merry way back to the car. Never a dull moment, kids.....<br><br>Day Trip to St. Barth's<br><br>We decided at the last minute to take a day trip over to St. Barth's. In Simpson Bay there is a little booth/shack on the lagoon side by the name of Discount Activity Center which advertises ridiculously low prices for certain day trips, cruises, etc. They had advertised with a flyer we found on our windshield about day trips to St. Barth's on the Swaliga II (a motorized cat which takes only one hour to make the channel crossing). The trip included all you can drink (which was more appealing on the ride back, not at 8:30 in the morning), snacks, a rental car for the day on St. Barth's and an hour of snorkeling on the way back. Oh, and the price? $59.95 per person! I, of course, being the eternal optimist said no way – I can smell a timeshare presentation a mile away. I was talked into at least stopping and checking it out and lo and behold it was all legit. Oh, ye of little faith........ Anyway, we had a delightful day – swam at Saline Beach, had a great lunch at Eden Rock and yes, did some shopping while in St. Jean. I would highly recommend the Discount Activity Center in Simpson Bay to check low-priced day or evening excursions.<br><br>Other stuff? Let's see. Stopped at Neil Rooney's new Peg Leg Pub on three or four occasions. Neil has done a really nice job with the place – and it's a nice spot to stop and have a friendly drink (as you might imagine) or get something to eat. There was usually a lively game of darts going on and the air conditioning gets no complaints from me after a day in the hot sun. We usually stopped in for drinks after dinner (and, unfortunately, once in lieu of – don't ask), and another time we ordered a few appetizers. Very good, and each one the size of an entree – a very good value. Do stop in to Peg Leg Pub and say hi to Neil and the ladies.<br><br>Other places we ate? Tropicana and La Belle Epoque in Marigot at Marina Royale. Very good, with Tropicana serving a downright excellent meal – try the escargot! Others included La Rosa Too (needed my osso bucco fix). Enzo and his dad are no longer there, but in my estimation, the new owners have not skimped on quality in the least. Two thumbs up on that one. Also, we finally took the time to find Tutta Pasta. You're so right, 'tessa, this place is a real find – I'd give it a four thumbs up if I had that many! If you need a pasta fix, this is the place. (I did find it a little too warm inside, though – there was no breeze that night. But the food and friendly service more than made up for it.)<br><br>My one disappointment of the trip? Paris Bistro. Of the several times I've eaten there I've never had a bad meal, but I guess I hit them on an off night. I ordered the pork medallions and they were served rare -- VERY rare. I'm talking literally still oinking. (Can you say "trichinosis"? I know you want to......) I know there has been great debate in the last few years about the complete necessity to cook pork all the way through or not, and when I asked the waiter to take them back and have them cooked through, the response was a haughty, "You can eat zem like zat, Monsieur." Yeah, well, I can also take a nice healthy bite out of your boney leg, pal, but I won't. Harrumph!! Will I go there again? Yes, only because of their past history with me in serving fantastic food. Connie and Bernard weren't there that night or I would've said something to them. Again, maybe just an off night for them (or me).<br><br>Well folks, that's my one and only sad tale of woe for the trip. My overall impression? The island looks great -- very green and I've never seen it so clean. They've done a fabulous job in that department. The people, as always were delightful and I felt very safe the whole time there. Of course, I've never felt unsafe there in the past -- ever. It's still the same wonderful place, but the weird thing is, for the first time I wasn't sad to to be coming home. My head and heart were in NY the whole time, I'm afraid, so I don't think I enjoyed myself as much as usual. The reason certainly had nothing to do with SXM, that's for sure, but just the circumstances of late and my current mindset. Being away from family and friends really seems to unnerve me lately. I'm quite confident that this, too, shall pass. Bottom line -- will SXM remain my premiere vacation destination? YOU BET!!! Nothing will ever change that and I urge people not to be afraid to go to SXM or to fly. Our friends down there need us to continue coming. And we need them!!<br><br>-Kevin<br><br><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Administrator on 12/10/01 02:57 PM.</EM></FONT></P>