This is our trip report from our trip January 31 to February 8, 2004, to St. Thomas, BVI and St. Martin. I will divide this up into sections, so folks can skip through what they’re not interested in. Most of this report will be divided up by subject, and is rarely strictly chronological.
AIR TRANSPORTATION
We booked Frequent Flyer tickets on American, about 8 months out, and were able to get our first choice of dates and flights, which was flights from Washington Dulles through San Juan to St. Thomas, and then returning from St. Martin through Miami. About a week prior to the trip, I got a note from AA saying that they had changed our flight schedule. The flights down were the same. However, on the way back, our original itinerary had been, leave SXM 3 PM, through Miami, arriving home around 10 PM. The NEW flights home were–leaving SXM 9 AM, through Miami–SEVEN HOUR LAYOVER IN MIAMI--SAME FLIGHT from Miami to home. After I had a heart attack and cursed out AA at the top of my lungs, I called them up on the phone, and politely asked to be changed back to my original flights. They did that. No explanation whatsoever for the change to begin with...
The flights down and back on AA were unremarkable, pretty much on time both ways. There were no particular delays in Miami on the way back, although I’ve got to say–was it just the terminal we were in, or are there no restaurants ANYWHERE inside security at Miami?? The piece of lame pizza and the hotdogs that we were able to get there on the way home certainly made us wish we had eaten lunch in St. Martin before we left... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Sick.gif" alt="" /> And, would it KILL them to have SOME type of signs anywhere close to where you come in from international arrivals that tell you where the h*ll you go for your connecting flight????
Between Tortola and St. Martin, we flew Caribbean Star. We made our reservations from home, and got a confirmation number, but didn’t pay till after we got to Tortola, which seemed kind of odd to me. We happened to be going out to Trellis Bay one day to get on the internet anyway, and thus stopped off at the airport to pay for and pick up tickets. I think they have a place in downtown Roadtown also to pick up tickets. We paid about $106 per person one way for the flight. The flight left Tortola at 8:45 AM and we were told to be at the airport two hours before, which we were. We didn’t need to be there that early, but we were. The flight was on time, no problems. I would have hated to have been on that plane going to Antigua though, as some folks were, as they had about four stops they were going to be making before getting to Antigua!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Shocked.gif" alt="" />
For the St. Thomas and Tortola parts of the report, please consult the BVI forum. And, after four very busy days in Tortola, it was OFF to....
ST. MARTIN!!
ARRIVAL IN SXM--We arrived on St. Martin around 9:45 AM, and being on a small plane, that time of the morning, were through immigration in two minutes, since we were first in line!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> Folks from AAA (Alain Arnell) were there to meet us and take us to his place to sign the paperwork, for a beige Corolla. It was a nice car, electric windows, etc. I’m not sure how often they are able to do it, but we were able to get a phone also from Alain, which was very convenient! As we pulled out of Alain’s place (which is almost across the street from Hot Tomatoes), we noticed the traffic was STOPPED. After a while, we figured that the bridge must be up, so we pulled in to a little grocery store right there to pick up a few supplies. When we came out, the road was moving again.
We were staying at Club Orient again this time, as we knew it would be a very quick trip. We had asked for early check-in, but it never materialized. We got to reception at around 10:30 AM, and they said to come back at 1. We were able to dump our bags in the room there by the reception desk, and we headed down to Andy and Cheryl’s for some early lunch and a kiss from Cheryl. I had my favorite meatball parmigiana and Eric had a new special that Andy is making, a ham and cheese roll which is dipped in batter and deep fried. As we were sitting there, Bulldog and Rerun came by for lunch and we chatted with Bulldog for a minute and begged off appearing on his show as we had only another two days there in SXM. We eventually came back to the Club O office at 1, and they gave us the key, BUT the maid was still in the room till after 2, so we couldn’t put our stuff away till after 2. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Mad.gif" alt="" />
We finally got out to the beach at close to 3, and Eric saw Jack Rinaldi, almost first thing, who told us LeeLee and BigTom were down the beach. Meeting up again with them and all kinds of other folks, it was wonderful. We were home!
CLUB ORIENT, BAYWATCH AND ORIENT BEACH NEWS
The beach was looking good, with room for 3 rows of chairs in front of Andy and Cheryl’s, and 30 feet between the corner of Papagayo’s and the water. There was room for two rows of chairs all the way to Papagayo’s. Andy and Cheryl have the roof on top of the restaurant now, and it is a big improvement over the umbrellas. They have had several of the evening parties, which have been pretty successful, except one they had on a Saturday night, which ran competition for the kareoke at Papagayo’s. In future, they will be limiting the parties to Friday nights only. Baywatch now has T-shirts, in addition to the beer coolies. The new deck around the Perch appears to be done, and there are several tables and a few umbrellas up there. The restrooms and showers are not done, it doesn’t appear that they’ve even started them yet, in fact. Papagayo’s supposedly has a new manager, as of February 1, so it is be hoped that there will be big improvements there. As of February 6, though, they were still running the lame buffet breakfast only. We were so busy, we never ate there at all. Carlos–who used to be at Baywatch–is still there at Club O, and was tending bar one morning at Papagayo’s. They have taken down the fence all the way along at Club O and replaced it with a heavy rope strung between the posts. We were in studio number 23, and enjoyed the location more than number 17, which is where we were at Thanksgiving. And 23 is slightly larger inside, as you could actually get the door to the closet open without hitting the bed.
HOLDING UP TRAFFIC, JUST LIKE LOCALS...
Friday evening, we wanted a steak from Peg Leg Pub, but I wanted to make a jog through Grand Case on the way. We pulled up in front of Bistrot Cariabes, and didn’t see Thibault or Amaury, so Eric stopped the car in the middle of Grand Case Boulevard and honked the horn. They both came out and greeted us warmly. We said that we would see them the next night, and managed to move on before we got honked at!! NOW, we were truly home... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" />
PEG LEG PUB, FOR THE BEST STEAKS ON SXM
After making our jog through Grand Case, we headed to Peg Leg. Shawn was standing by the front door when we drove up and saw us, and waved us to a spot right by the front door!! Such service, delivered with a smile and a big hug!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Smile.gif" alt="" /> I had the sirloin kabobs and Eric the bourbon steak, both of which were excellent, as always. We said hi to Jack (the owner) and after a while Jack Rinaldi and his wife and son showed up. After dinner, we tried to track down Neal, but weren’t able to. We went by Buccaneer several times during our trip and never did see him there.
THE WEATHER STINKS!
We arrived in SXM on Thursday and would be leaving on Sunday at 3, so we knew that we only would have two full days and two partial days in SXM. Unfortunately for us, those two full days–February 6 and 7–the weather was atrocious both days. On Friday, it basically was spitting rain all day, and tremendously windy. No one was on the beach all day. Early Friday morning, we headed out to Cul de Sac to the Ma Dou Dou “factory”, to pick up supplies for a friend of Eric’s at work. We had made arrangements to meet SXM Norm and Betty and WayneB at Baywatch for lunch that day, so we went. They had plastic tarps up at Baywatch to try to keep out some of the wind and rain, and although it was cramped and uncomfortable, they still did a decent business. On Saturday, the wind was so fierce that they never put up the umbrellas at Club Orient all day. I knew that I could not survive on the beach without an umbrella, as I would get burned to a crisp. Eric and I mostly sat on the back porch at our unit during the day under a palm tree. It was very pleasant back there, actually, as there was less wind, and I did have the shade. Eric took off down the beach a couple of times to try to find some folks to talk to, but there was basically no one on the beach. Of course, on Sunday, the day we were to leave, the weather was MUCH nicer, and we enjoyed about three hours on the beach Sunday morning, that were by far the best hours we had on the beach for the whole trip. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Mad.gif" alt="" />
INTERNET CAFÉ ON ORIENT
Since the weather was so bad Friday morning, we headed to the internet café which is in the Village du Orient. Cost there is $6 (or 6 E, can’t remember) for a half hour, on a decent connection, with an English keyboard. It’s inside in the a/c. You can set up an account for a week or longer, and use your time over the course of several days. It is basically between the Fish Bar and the Cote Plage, inside another store, which is I think a DVD Rental place.
BISTROT CARIABES!!
Bistrot Cariabes has become our favorite these days in SXM for a French restaurant, in part because of their wonderful food and in part because the brothers Thibault and Amaury are so engaging. Friday night we headed to Bistrot Cariabes, around our normal time in SXM, which is around 7, without reservations, of course. We finished around 9 PM, by which time the whole restaurant was full. We shared one order of their lovely French Onion soup (sweeter than many other places, and yummy!!), I had the scallop and shrimp special (outstanding!) and Eric had the sea bass. I ordered creme brulee and stabbed Eric’s hand with my fork for trying to sneak some, and we each had coffee, and a nice white burgundy wine. BTW, something new!! Bistrot Cariabes has gift certificates now, AND with a gift certificate, you get 10% off!! I think currently you can only buy them in the restaurant, but we told them they should think about having them available on their web site, as I think they would sell a lot of them!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Thumbsup.gif" alt="" /> After dinner, we went to Dolphin and I could not get Eric to leave until around 2 AM, even though I was falling asleep. It wasn’t like he was winning either.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Crazy.gif" alt="" />
HOT TOMATOES
Saturday night we were kind of tired and not very hungry, so we just headed to HT and got a pizza to share. We had wanted to get one of those Rum Jumbie bananas, but we didn’t finish the pizza and my mom always said I couldn’t have dessert if I didn’t finish my meal! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/Grin.gif" alt="" /> Next time, though, as those things are killer!!!!! After dinner, we had a very brief, unsuccessful trip back to Dolphin, and left very soon with our tails between our legs and empty pockets...
BUCCANEER, BANANAS, LAVISTA, TURTLE PIER....
We went by Buccaneer Beach Bar three or four times and never saw Neil. What’s up with that?? Is he off island??? We also went by Bananas a couple of times and had a few drinks with Bob, but never saw Dale. Saturday morning we went by LaVista and had breakfast with Peter, our good friend. He said that our bartender friend, Larry, is off island, trying to get himself fixed up! Good luck, my friend! Saturday morning we toured the new Royal Turtle guesthouse, which is pretty nice!!
Overall–wow, VERY busy trip. We met a bunch of great new people, and renewed many friendships in St. Martin, even on such a brief trip. She will always be our “island in the sun”.... Carol & Eric
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