Just returned from the BVI, where my first mate Suzanne and I chartered a monohull sailboat for 10 days (Horizon, 1/19-1/29) after an absence of 12 years. Here's a quick summary of the changes we noticed...

* Air service to EIS (Beef Island) isn't as convenient as it used to be when American Eagle was still servicing the San Juan-Tortola market. We decided to fly into STT, which proved to be time-consuming and rather costly due to adding an additional night onshore, taxis, ferries, etc. Next time we'll take another look at the current EIS options (Cape Air and Sunborne).

* Based on numerous warnings here, I expected anchorages to be more crowded. In fact they were less so than our previous trip -- which was however during the Christmas vacation, so perhaps that explains the difference. We had no trouble finding moorings in mid-January this year.

* Anegada is now a feasible destination thanks to the marked channel. It was strictly off limits on our last trip.

* Provisioning is a lot easier, thanks to the Riteway supermarket and Tico's, which offers a great selection of fine wines at reasonable prices.

* Restaurants are more expensive, but the quality of the cuisine has gone up, generally. The rebuilt/expanded Pirates Bight restaurant on Norman Island is an example.

Otherwise, things seemed much the same -- friendly people, fantastic sailing, great snorkeling, unforgettable beauty. We're already planning another trip in the next year or two.

Bryan & Suzanne
Charlottesville, VA