We also have just returned, and chartering since the early 90's. We remember Bert Kilbride, Lowell Wheatley and burgees hanging at the Bitter End. There seem to be more luxury yachts, less quaint pink and yellow buildings and more dingys speeding thru the anchorages. We prefer Billy Bones to the new Pirates, but love holding tanks on the boats. As long as there are the Nick and Monicas at Leverick we will continue to return. Change is inevitable,some changes are great and others not so great. Monos now are a minority, seems like less cruisers in the BVI's and more in the USVI,s. Seems like the push is for upscale eateries, I hope the "old island culture",doesn't change.o