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DAY 6

Woke early again to some serious rain this morning! My walk to the French press was not illuminated by the same bright glow as earlier mornings. I checked the radar and its pulsating images were not promising today. The gang slept in a little longer this morning, but I felt bad that they forced themselves out of bed only to be greeted by rain. Our weather had been great up til now. Our plans were to drive 30 minutes over the island to Salt Pond Bay and ultimately hike to Ram’s Head. The rain didn’t let up so we sat in the kitchen discussing our options. Not sure who it was, but someone said “hell with it! Let’s go anyways” It would only be the Skyway group this morning, plus one young lady from Starstruck who didn’t want to miss a thing! As we traversed the islands switchbacks, using caution in the curves, we neared the Coral Bay overlook on Bourdeaux Mountain, The rain had begun to slow to a drizzle.

Older photo of valley because of rain.



After showing our friends the big valley view to Coral Bay we slowly drove down to the “quiet side” of the island. We had planned to get breakfast at Mosquito Bites or whatever it’s called nowadays in Cocolobo Plaza, Dang…out of business! Why do some of my favorite places seem to only last a year or two? With everyone’s sugar levels dropping we bought some bananas at the small grocery store there. I suggested trying the small corner stand that we passed on the way here, it was just what the doctor ordered! Fresh coffee, Johnny cakes stuffed with West Indian spiced ground beef, plain Johnny cakes and eggs for some, it was perfect. I wish I could remember the women’s name who was both cook and server, but she was wonderful. She was actually from Tortola and said she was helping her friend/family out while they were away. She said she is about to open a new place in Roadtown, sorry can’t remember that name either <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Blush.gif" alt="" /> PLEASE support the mom and pop shops around the islands, they are often very reasonably priced and they all seem to be GREAT cooks.



John and I stretched our legs while waiting for breakfast. We walked across the street to the Emmaus Moravian Church circa 1750. Cool Danish architecture! There was nobody around and it was incredibly quiet walking the small church grounds. I enjoyed imagining what it must have been like 260+ years ago standing in the same spot? A few tall ships in the bay and the valley planted with sugar cane hmmm.

Another older photo because of rain and bad angle <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />.



With full bellies we motored on to the trail head at Salt Pond Bay. The rain/drizzle had stopped, but the skies remained unsettled. With just the necessities we began our walk down to Salt Pond. There was one family there, apparently from the cat moored in the calm bay.





With thoughts of another rain storm we aggressively hit the trail on the far side of the beach. The trail is easy going at first leading you to a beautiful blue cobble stone beach.



From there it’s a gradual series of switch backs as you start your ascent to Rams Head. This side of the island is more barren and you see a lot of hermit crabs, low growth cover including beautiful cactus which were healthy with fruit this week. We enjoyed picking and eating the pink jalapeno shaped fruit. As you near the summit you are greeted with intimidating steep guts that provide enough wind to power most small towns.





After a half hour effort and a few more steps there we stood on the most easterly point of St John. Beautiful in any weather! I highly recommend a full moon hike here if you get the chance, that’s truly something to see!

Of course it is sobering to think about the European slave trade that was prevalent in earlier times. History books differ some in the details, however it is said that during the Slave Rebellion of 1733 a group of slaves chose to commit suicide rather than be captured by the French and Danish forces. They would jump to their deaths from this very spot. Many good references can be found regarding the revolt. In the words of Bob Marley, “if you know your history, then you know where you coming from”





As I mentioned, we only brought the necessities, therefore I retrieved the still slightly chilled Presidente’s and Gatorade that I had secretly stowed in my backpack. The adults enjoyed this reward before reversing our steps back down to Salt Pond.

Once back on the beach we took yet another trail to Drunk Bay, probably an extra 5 minute walk. This place is magical to me. The sea breezes are wonderful and the views of Leduck and Flanagan islands are incredible. But the thing I find the most interesting and this has been going on as long as I have been visiting, is the amount of “temporary” stone, coral and driftwood art that folks take the time to create. There are some very creative people on this planet!

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After creating some fantastic works of art ourselves we headed back to the beach and eventually up the short hill to our Jeeps. It did not rain a drop!

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We were expected to reunite with the Starstruck gang at Skinny Legs soon, but we made a pit stop at Shipwreck Landing. This is one of our very favorite restaurants on the island. When we arrived the restaurant was packed FULL of cruisers who were on an island tour. Knowing that they would eventually leave we stalled for time in the nice shops next door. About 20 minutes later the sunburned, bag toting, flower shirt wearing tourists would be quickly whisked away by their 3 large safari tour trucks. We then moved our sunburned, bag toting, sweaty t-shirt gang into the already warm seats for our turn at drinks and French fries. We played a couple games of darts here, I would be victorious this time!

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After some great fries with Old Bay seasoning we would arrive at Skinny Legs fashionably late. No biggie, the rest of the gang were enjoying drinks at the picnic tables near the horseshoe pits. We raised the Presidente umbrellas on the remaining outside tables and quickly made ourselves at home. Skinny Legs has a very relaxed atmosphere with basically no view other than a few old boats in dry dock. We love this laid back iconic place! There are a few small shops here including the Jolly Dog which is where half my wardrobe comes from. Our waitress was very friendly and the boys thought she was “hot”. After a round of drinks we placed our food order, consisting of blackened Mahi sandwiches and cheeseburgers. I know these are basic fare, but they always seem to taste better here!

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We had time for a quick game of horseshoes before our food comes. Skywaymen vs. Starstruck….men. We quickly destroyed our less than worthy opponents 21-7. I think you can surmise that we are all pretty competitive. After their defeat John and I gloated a bit, just a little! Brian would be overheard saying “well… John didn’t help his team much” which prompted John to say “well…I scored 7 points which is the grand total of your losing teams score” he then broke eye contact and started in on his victory meal. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

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After a great lunch at Skinny’s we caravanned over the mountain on Centerline Road turning right at the smoothie stand and dropping down to Maho Bay. Maho Bay is our favorite beach, probably because of the memories of teaching our daughter at a very young age how to swim in the still waters there. The turtles are awesome also. Maho has undergone some serious renovation recently. I am usually one who is against most change on the island, but I actually like what they have done. It used to be cool to back your Jeep in right next to the beach camouflaging the vehicle in Seagrape plants just feet from the waters edge. But that is no longer an option and the beach will absolutely be healthier for it! They created an unpaved parking area that can hold many more vehicles just across the road. They have added restrooms as well and renovated the pavilion. All good, well thought out changes in my opinion. The weather was great and the beach was quiet and calm as ever!

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My wife and I would leave the beach @ 530pm to pick up dinner supplies. The rest of the gang remained on the beach in anticipation of a great sunset, even if it was behind the clouds! We stopped at well stocked Starfish Market to pick up the extras to go along with our 16 nice filets courtesy of the “checked cooler”. Unfortunately, Rusty would not join us for dinner, apparently worn out from the day and worse…he lost his wedding ring at Maho probably while throwing that small ball around, DANG! Although the weather was iffy the rains of the morning did not reappear, it was an enjoyable day. After a great dinner of Steak and potatoes smothered in a reduced red wine mushroom sauce we retired poolside with a nice glass of Knob Creek and watched St Thomas light up the sky.

To be continued……. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Cheers.gif" alt="" />