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Trip report. Part 3, 6/14-17 #258789
06/20/2021 09:56 AM
06/20/2021 09:56 AM
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 686
Lake Texoma, Texas
C
cruzer Offline OP
Traveler
cruzer  Offline OP
Traveler
C
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 686
Lake Texoma, Texas
The halfway point is nigh.

(This text seems awfully small to me, though I did nothing different than the last 2 postings Isn't there a reformat option for postings?)

Discovering that Yvette’s doesn’t serve dinner during this pandemic and is only open Noon to 2:30 , closed Wednesdays, necessitated a rework of this week’s meal plan. We decided today was a Philipsburg trip, so that meant either Caribbean Blend (grilled grouper filet, slathered in butter and nicely spiced, perhaps with magic spice) or Ital’s. I mistakenly thought CB was closed so off to Ital’s. Ital’s is a vegetarian, maybe even vegan, restaurant on the outskirts of town that we go to to “cleanse” the excesses of the previous meals. It’s always a pleasure to see Bushman and his wife. There is a daily plate consisting of some 5 or 6 items, today’s being quinoa, green banana, sorrel and a few other tasty (no sarcasm here) treats. There’s a $9 or $12 plate, but damned if I can tell the difference in food quantity.. We had a passion fruit drink

Now cleansed enough for future meals of foie gras and Ti Punches, we proceeded the few klicks to town. BTW, the traffic light is back. We came in from the school side of town, where most shops were shuttered or closed. As is our habit, we stopped in the African shop across from the school and talked to the owners there. They seem to be doing well physically, hoping for the return of business.
On our way to Guavaberry, I noticed the ladies enticing you to enter their jewelry stores weren’t as aggressive or enthusiastic as before, not that they don’t have a good reason. While they’ve always been a minor annoyance, they were always part of the activities on Front Street that gave it some of it’s flavor. I also noticed that no one was carrying a Guavaberry Colada cup as we were wondering if they still had those gawdy Bourbon Street appropriate cups they had last time. Mystery solved. The store is closed. Bummer. From the sign on the door, they still do business, just not at the store. Given the sparse traffic, I can see why.

I was getting thirsty, and what better to get than a “free” beer, so we head to Royal Jewelers to visit with Vince and company. Vince looks up, smiles and waves, and continues with the customer he is already working over, er, servicing. Harry immediately comes over and we begin chit-chatting, and offers up some refreshment. Accepted. Shirley starts looking at the rings, asking the price of one. Harry responds that Vince can give her the prices. And at that point I realize Shirley is only Vince’s customer. No problem with that as Shirley trusts Vince’s knowledge, professionalism and judgement. We also engage in a little good-natured kidding, like when he asks me a question, I respond that he’s only doing that because he knows I have the credit card in my pocket, and he responds “Of course”. Two more couples walk in, so he calls his wife, Rahkee (sp?) to come in. All while we’re talking about life these days, and how both Vince and Rahkee had covid, Shirley finally fids something that appeals to her, assisting the funding of their children’s college fund. Vince just emailed us a nice thank you note of appreciation for our continued business, and especially this trips’. Hah, the Bastard knows we’re in town for another 10 days, planning another trip to Philipsburg, and to just keep him in mind for our visit. Probably this time, the beer will really be free.

Since we had business to transact in Marigot the next day, we thought we’d eat at Tropicana. I really wanted to try out Be Kool, but they aren’t open during our stay. I noticed the chalkboard had a salad with shredded duck leg ravioli (the owner said it was Duck Confit, but maybe that’s because I asked if they had that specific meal) and some sliced smoked duck breast. Only 3 raviolis and 3 slices of breast, but, hey, it’ a salad dish not a meat dish. Shirley had the smoked salmon plate with a side of fries. The fries came out piping hot and crisp, just how we like them. Problem was, they came directly from the fryer and put in a cup, so shortly the condensation made them soggy. Not so much a complaint as an observation and lesson. Shirley decided she wanted a Kir Royale to drink, and after ordering a second wondered what they cost. I guessed around 8-10 Euros, as that seems to be the going rate in nicer restaurants. Nope, 14 Euros. I read somewhere that drinks are considered the 3rd guest cost-wise in a nice meal for 2. With Shirley, it likes like the meal is the 3rd guest in a drinking session.
For the second straight evening, we decided to eat in. I’m now tired of some of our Super U deli purchases, so will be sourcing from Bacchus from now on.

Wednesday is Hercules day. When I was putting together my hit list at home, I couldn’t find out if this place was open or not. Last Facebook posting was in Jan and nothing since. I did stop by on our way back from Ma Dou Dou and found they were indeed up and running. I ordered griot, a marinated, boiled and then fried pork dish that’s very popular in Haiti, with Pikliz and Banan peze( fried, smashed plantain). Pikliz is (normally) a pickled assortment of julienned veggies with scotch bonnets included for heat and flavor). It takes a few days to meld the flavors in the recipe I use. Nowadays Hercules makes to pikliz to order, so they don’t need all that vinegar, instead using a bit of fresh lime juice. I heartily endorse the change. Shirley had a very tasty stew that we also had again with Friday night leftovers.
I used to always order accras there, as they make the batter from tania, one of the local ground provisions, instead of all flour. It makes them denser and more filling, and thus the enemy of finishing the main course on site, so I passed in order to enjoy my main course.

Any place with a cat gets an automatic half star upgrade from us because of that, so Hercules is no exception. I asked the server if it was ok to give the cat some food, and she said yes, but only a little as the food is spicey. Instead, I whipped out a bag of kibble, which kind of surprised her. Hey, just a bunch of crazy Americans we are. The cat, Bella, loves me.

I was getting a little hungry in the evening, but in no mood for our Super U purchases, didn’t want to go to town, when we realized we had an on-site restaurant. While the first meal we had there was good, good just isn’t good enough on this island. Fortunately I ordered a dish that satisfied my small appetite, and culinary desires, now forgetting exactly what it was, but some raw fish medley. I think Shirley had a Caesar Salad. It is nice to have an on-site option.

In all probability, Wednesday’s dinner kept me filled through the next morning, so for the first time in 9 mornings this trip, we didn’t have croissants and a baguette for breakfast That also saves room for our upcoming lunch at Yvettes. We arrived right at Noon, and saw no cars in the parking lot. Uh oh. Entered the dining room, and no diners or staff. Please, no. I called out, and Felix, the Chef, came in offering us to sit at any table. I was worried for a moment as Yvettes is a mandatory stop, as well as on our repeat list during the trip.

There’s really no reason for us to see the menu, as our choices are set in stone. I have the pan fried red snapper filet, creole style, and Shirley has the conch and dumplings. As I did at Hercules, I was going to pass on their version of accras, called fish cakes, but figured I could always lighten up on the fries, if potential fullness became an issue. Not to worry, Shirley assisted by eating 2 of the 5 fish cakes and I managed to clean my plate. My meal was accompanied by johnny cakes, fries, a salad and fried plantain. Until I had Yvettes, I’d never had snapper that really excited me, and was ready to drop that fish from my play list.
While Yvettes has a lot of local clientele, their inability to open for dinner has been difficult, even affecting their lunch business. Only 3 others came in to eat while we were there, although there might have been some take-away business done in the other room.

We weren’t all that hungry for dinner, but decided to return to Villa Royale and share the mahi mahi tartare, upgrading the fries to sweet potato fries for 4 bucks and worth every penny. Shirley wanted a Kir Royale, but opted for a Bellini instead. That cost $12, so maybe Tropicana’s wasn’t all the bad after all. Another very satisfying meal on the cheap.

I’ll break off here. Maybe I should mention that the weather has been partly-to-mostly cloudy with an occasional brief shower. I try to get in the water at least twice a day, but probably averaging 1 ½ times, for, call it, for 1 ½ hours a day on average. Taking life easy, as we have a lot ahead of us when we return home, still 9 days away.
Upcoming reports. Friday our best meal of the trip so far—Bouchot mussels at Le Champagne, Saturday’s return to Rosemary’s and Miss Ebby selections, and today’s Trip to Oasis to visit with Carole, bum my once a year smoke if she still smokes (I hope she’s quit), and probably Nice for dinner. One advantage of doing these reports is that it focusses my mind, which left to its own devices on this vacation wanders all over the place, seemingly acting random at times.

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Re: Trip report. Part 3, 6/14-17 [Re: cruzer] #258799
06/20/2021 11:25 AM
06/20/2021 11:25 AM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 82,469
Central Florida!
Carol_Hill Offline
Traveler
Carol_Hill  Offline
Traveler
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 82,469
Central Florida!
Wow, even though we're here on island, that made me envious! Thanks!


Carol Hill

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