Greetings TTOLers! Wanted to share with you our wonderful week in the BVI where we chartered Dream Yacht's "Thousand Sunny" - a 2013 Lagoon 38 - out of Maya Cove 4/12-20, 2014.

**warning: negative stuff at the front end of this trip report - hang in there...it gets better!

4/12 Our family of four (including 2 teens) arrived in Roadtown via Tortola Fast Ferry from St Thomas. It was a long day traveling from VA and we were wiped out so just ate dinner at the marina restaurant at Maya Cove (or Hodges Creek to some). All of the food was reasonably priced and delicious - especially the Mahi Mahi. The marina facilities were good, though there aren't any shops (besides the dive shop) or provisioning available on site. Maya Cove has certainly grown alot since our last time chartering out of there in 1996! Our provisionings arrived on time that evening from Rite Way...a few things missing from our online order (like almost all of the fixings for one night's meal of hamburgers), but they deducted the missing items from the bill and we adjusted our plan to just eat out an extra night. Overall, our experience of ordering online with RiteWay was a good one.

4/13 We were more than ready to check out with the Dream office when they opened at 8:00am...but due to their very poorly managed operations, we did not get away from the dock until after 2:30! They claimed they were running behind because they'd turned over 15 or more boats the day before. We were not happy to start our charter so late in the day. Had never had that happen when chartering with Footloose, Catamaran Company or Tropic Island Yacht Management over the past 17 years. In short, the company was understaffed and it is clear that maintaining their boats is not a priority. We had to repeatedly ask for things to be dealt with before we could get underway. In the end, we accepted the boat with some issues unresolved just so we could finally get away from the dock!

Specifically, there was no life ring, no safety light with the life ring, the shore power connection did not work, the fuel and water gauges did not work, there were no binoculars, the fuel tank was not topped off, one head was very hard to pump, some of the trim inside and outside the boat was falling off, the first aid kit had nothing but a couple of bandaids in it, the boat was not as clean as I would have expected (dirt and hair on deck), etc. Furthermore, there was no chart briefing, the windlass anchor did not work on the last night and the horsepower on the engines was not as impressive as other 38s we've had. We expected a 2013 boat to be in much better condition as we were accustomed to chartering boats 5 years or older that were in better shape.

In general, the staff was rather disinterested in having us as customers. Aside from the welcome letter waiting on board, we didn't feel that our business (and a good experience) was important to them. Since you don't know me personally, I will tell you that we were lovely and gracious and very polite. We would have loved a little more enthusiasm in return from them about our being there. Unlike some who are blessed with the resources to charter multiple times a year (or every year), we can "only" afford to go about every 3-4 years and can only afford to rent the smallest cats. In other words, this is a luxury for us. I guess we want to feel like our business is important and that you want to help make this a good experience for us. I'm not talking about kissing my a** and treating me like royalty...just a little graciousness rather than me feeling like I’m inconveniencing you any time I speak to you. As we left, the base manager said he’d “take care of us” when we got back on Sunday.

Anyway....on to the fun stuff! We motored up to Spring Bay in the afternoon as the seas and wind weren't conducive to a good sail. Grabbed a ball (it wasn’t busy given how rolly it was) and snorkeled in. We had never been there, but I felt compelled after many TTOLers mentioned it as a great alternative to the Baths (which we have done most other trips). Kids and I instantly fell in love and vowed to come back the next day when we had more time and the sun would be out. We overnighted at Leverick (again, a TTOL suggestion!) where we celebrated my husband's birthday at Jumbies with a casual meal (Upstairs was closed as it was Sunday night).

4/14 Morning brought a glorious sunrise over North Sound. The water in the Leverick marina was crystal clear - lots of fish visible right from the dinghy dock and we saw many sea turtles in the bay. We rented a car via the resort's reception desk and had a fantastic time exploring Virgin Gorda by car for the first time. Oh, those views!! We dined at the Top of the Baths (I drank a Boulder Smash which was probably the best – and possibly strongest – mixed drink I’ve ever had!). We had excellent service and delicious food. The onion rings were amazing! I loved the lush, tropical views and the shops were nice. To avoid the crowds at the Baths, we spent the early afternoon next door at Spring Bay. My family really had to tear me away from there!!! I must have taken 100 pix just at Spring Bay. We already had plans to overnight at Peter Island. Otherwise I would have spent the rest of the day exploring VG, especially going down to Copper Mine. Leverick had an excellent market for provisioning and a few nice shops.

That afternoon we had a nice run to Peter Island where we grabbed a mooring at Great Harbour (another excellent TTOL suggestion!) and cooked dinner on board. This was a new anchorage for us and we just loved it. Very quiet and a great place to watch the blood moon eclipse that night. Despite how bright the full moon was beforehand, during the eclipse we could see the Milky Way.

4/15 We kayaked around Great Harbour in the AM and enjoyed tremendous snorkeling. What a terrific variety of coral there was! Also saw a gigantic porcupine fish, among other underwater beauties. We were the only ones snorkeling so that made it even better. Overnighted at Scrub Island resort (another TTOL suggestion) so we could grab a free launch over to the full moon party at Trellis Bay. Though expensive, this meant we didn't have to arrive in Trellis Bay by noon to catch a mooring during this popular event. Trellis was indeed PACKED!!!!!! It was our first full moon party and, naturally, we had a blast, as promised by all you regulars. Hint: be sure to be in line early for the last launch back to Scrub Island...the line down the dock was LONG!

As others have mentioned, Scrub Island is a high-end resort with a very different feel than the other places we’ve visited in the BVI. It was a lovely place, but I wouldn’t necessarily return as I prefer quieter and more casual anchorages. The amenities were great, though. A small beach has free kayaking for slip guests (SUPs cost extra) and a trampoline out on the water. There is a kids’ pool with slide just below the more adult infinity pool and swim-up bar. We did not eat in the restaurants. Everything seemed beautifully maintained, but by 5:00 there weren’t any towels in the marina showers (usually available as part of your slip fee) and there was a line for the showers. No ventilation in the little private bathrooms meant I was sweating as soon as I got out of the cold shower. There is a “gourmet” market that had almost none of the basic amenities we were looking for. FYI, if you stay in one of the rooms, you can earn Marriott points, but not as a slip guest.

4/16 Made an early run up to Anegada. For the first time ever in the BVI, we saw a dolphin. It was in just a few feet of water in the channel into Anegada. Beat the crowds to the mooring balls…but it was crowded that night. Rented a car from the lovely Dean Wheatley. Stopped by the iguana “head start” center, saw a few flamingos off in the distance from the bridge (most were on the other side of the island as it’s nesting time). Dean says the population is up to about 200. Heard from someone else that the human population on Anegada is about 200 now, too…wonder when the flamingos will take over! Gorgeous afternoon at Flash of Beauty/Loblolly Bay. Monica was delightful to talk to as we enjoyed some drinks and snacks. My son had a large sting ray pass right in front of him while fishing off the beach. Daughter found an absolutely enormous conch shell in the water. Not a polished up one, but perhaps a recently vacated one. We all loved exploring the various creatures in the tide pools and walking along the pinkish sands. Back at the boat we enjoyed a typically incredible Anegada sunset before heading into enjoy giant lobsters at the Anegada Reef Hotel. Loved the atmosphere they create for dinner on the sand, with tiki torches and all.

4/17 A low moved in overnight and made for quite windy conditions. It was rather bouncy in the harbor. We decided to rent the car for a second day and this time headed out to Cow Wreck Beach. There’s really no way to adequately describe how gorgeous it is there!! The four of us somehow ran up a $165 lunch/drink tab…but it was well worth it (especially as the drinks were STRONG!). Son fished some more to no avail (nearby pelicans had more luck). Hubby taught daughter how to play darts. Our new teen driver enjoyed trying his hand at left-side driving on the dirt roads on the way back to the hotel. Passed just a couple of cars…mostly goats and cows. Another great sunset then decided to give Potters by the Sea our business as Sam had given us such a warm greeting when we arrived in the harbor the day before. The food wasn’t as good as Anegada Reef Hotel, but the casual and colorful atmosphere was good fun.

4/18 Sailed almost 9 knots down to Jost Van Dyke with a reef in. 6+ foot seas – yahoo! Great ride. Took pix off of Sandy Spit, but felt it was too rough to try to go ashore. Anchored at Great Harbour JVD and enjoyed watching the pelicans and frigate birds put on a lovely show for us. Saw our first mongoose ashore and grabbed a few things from the sparse shelves of the grocery store. Delicious buffet and fun dancing to a live band at Foxy’s. What an awesome night!!

4/19 We motored (winds not conducive to sailing) up to the Caves at Norman Island where we didn’t have too much difficulty finding a ball as it was POURING with rain so not many people were around. The rain didn’t keep us from enjoying the fantastic snorkeling the Caves has to offer. The sun eventually came out and we saw a wonderful array of creatures, including eels, a big group of cuttle fish and an octopus. The highlight for me and my daughter was swimming with a sea turtle!! A first for us. We had hoped to grab a ball at the Bight but it was PACKED (especially with a lot of fishing boats from PR)! Really not even room to safely anchor. So we decided to return to Great Harbour, Peter Island (luckily there was enough daylight left to get there!) where we easily found a ball. Dinner was at Ocean’s 7 – mahi, grouper and chicken were all delicious and the view was fantastic. I wish the giant barge wasn’t such an eye sore at the mouth of the harbor. It does mar the otherwise lovely view of Tortola.

4/20 Easter morning…gorgeous sail back to Maya Cove where we had no problems checking back in with Dream Yachts. The base manager paid for the fuel bill as compensation for our troubles at check out. Given how much we motored (unfortunately), I am guessing that “favor” was worth around $150. Eighteen hours, one boat, 2 taxis, one ferry, 2 planes, one shuttle bus and one car later, we were safely back home in VA.

In short, another magical trip to our favorite place. Currently trying to get my 700+ pictures down to around 250. Not easy because it’s just so beautiful down there!

Random notes:

Wifi - not good at most places (and obviously not every place even had it) - would have considered signing up for the dedicated wifi on the boat which would have cost us about $125 for the week. Mostly frustrating to the teens. Kind of miss the old days where wifi wasn’t even available down there as the teens were antsy when the wifi in restaurants was spotty. I know...I should have made them leave the darn phones off or at home.

Travelers Checks – had a harder time than usual using these down there. I chose to carry mostly travelers checks because I didn’t want to pay an international fee every time I used my Visa card. And I didn’t want to carry only cash for obvious reasons or have to worry about finding an ATM. It worked out in the end, but it was a bit frustrating as I don’t remember it being an issue on previous trips.