Bob and Linda's Most Excellent BVI Adventure OK - I'm not even going try to keep this succinct and to the point. That's simply not be possible as I reminisce about all the wonderful and truly laid - back times we had over the 3 weeks we were in the BVI! As I was keeping my travel journal, often I would think of general observations that were not particular to a specific time and/or place, but may be of interest to posters here at TTOL. I will put these
in "quote" boxes to keep them apart from the rest of the chronological report and for those of you who want just the facts, read the stuff in the boxes only.
Week 1 - April 16 - April 24 2004 - Ahoy Mateys!!!!Remember - this is our first major sailing experience and our first crewed charter.
Life on the Ocean Wave:
Our crewed charter was instigated by our very own TTOLer "Dug", was arranged through Sherry Yates at Yates Yachts and was on Shamu of Tortola, a 47' Visiona catamaran. Our hosts were Bryan and Ann Petley. I cannot say enough good things about the boat itself or any of these people. Sherry was a true delight to work with and held our hands every step of the way. She's a wonderful and very very funny lady. Shamu was in impeccable condition and very environmentally friendly (solar power panels and a desalination unit for fresh water). Bryan and Ann were consummate hosts and went out of their way to ensure that we enjoyed ourselves. Dug - well what can I say? He's just a sweetheart and provided all sorts of assistance and advice throughout the process plus he worried himself sick about
us enjoying our first charter (to the point where he was bugging Sherry midway through the charter week to find out how we were doing). We are indebted to all of them!
Our flight out of Ottawa, Canada is for 6:30 AM and Continental has advised us to be at the airport at least 2 hours before take-off (4:30 AM) and since we live about 1 hour drive away, this means getting up at 2:30 AM. I've taken the day before off work to pack and get ready, but the day gets eaten up with last minute calls from work, so I'm packing at 10 PM on the 15th (quel surprise!). Get to the airport with time to spare anyhow despite the surprise closing and bulldozing of the long term parking lot that I've used for 20 years here, only to find the Continental Desk closed.... so we wait and wait and wait and finally it opens about 1 hour before flight time. Ticket agents are most annoyed with each other and us as they can't agree on the rules for carry-on baggage. We wait some more until they agree. Then it's a rush to get through security and US Customs in Ottawa. Security is simply great (professional, efficient, helpful and friendly), don't blink an eye at the huge jug of Canadian Maple Syrup we are bringing down as a gift for our hosts and our only hitch is having to break up a 5 pack of disposable lighters so that 3 are in my bags and 3 in hubby's (?????). US Customs and Immigration guy stares at us like criminals for awhile, then gets bored when we just stare back and waves us through. Can't bring our carry-on luggage on plane as the jet (Embraeur - something) is too small, so gate check (which is a great invention) and away we go. Connecting flight in Newark, where we sit for what seems forever waiting to take off. Crowded flight to STT, but our seatmate in a 3-3 737 configuration is another lady who is doing a Sunsail charter (bareboat) for 10 days so we have lots to talk about. (I worry for her sanity, however, as she is a dyed-in- the-wool cruise ship person who likes shopping, massages and casinos and this is her first sail charter).
We land at STT only 10 minutes late and are immediately greeted by the rum punch lady, suck that sustenance in and grab a much-craved for cigarette outside, where we get to talking with "Dave" who lives on St. John and rides a Harley and since he spots hubby's HD hat, gives us his address and phone number and wants us to stop by. If this is our intro to the islands - I'm totally charmed at the friendliness of everyone.
Grab a cab to Bolongo Bay where we are staying for the night (supposed to be at Secret Harbour, but got bumped 3 days earlier). It takes ages to get out of Charlotte Amalie, but who cares since we are staring at palm trees and those wonderful blues of the Caribbean? Truly know that we are once again in the Caribbean when we see a pick up truck with a few long lengths of 3" pipe in the back and several guys riding in the back to stand up and hold the pipe so it won't fall out! At BB, the service is superb (more rum punches while we check in), the units less than "superb" (Motel 6 decor, water taps so corroded that pieces have broken off and the size of the BB pool in reality bears no resemblance to the pics on their web site), but this is only for 1 night so - what do we care?). Dinner at Iggy's, bed early (to be a continuing theme on our trip).
Up early on
April 17 for breakfast and off to hook up with our charter hosts at Molly Malone's at Red Hook. We're early, so there's nothing to do but have a rum punch and wait. I go to the bathroom finally and while I'm there, Bob chases away a lady who is peering at our luggage tags (turns out that the lady is our host and first mate, Ann!). Dink out to Shamu of Tortola and Bryan and Ann Petley for a wonderful week of sailing and snorkelling, cooking and companionship!
Sail to Leinster Bay for the 1st night anchorage. Wild donkeys on the shore braying loudly, (joined by wild joggers in the following AM). Bob snorkelled that afternoon. He can't wait to get in the water. - I've had too many "Shamu cocktails" to even think about it. Supper is exquisite filet mignon from Shamu's
hosts and crawl into our berth to fall asleep to the lapping of the waves.
Up early again on
April 18. Totally entranced by schools of bait fish drifting in the water like silver ribbons in the light near the boat. Check into Customs for the BVI at Soper's Hole, then on to the Indians for snorkelling. Bob has a great time here, but I find the wind and current too much and give it up. On to Norman Island and anchor near the Willy T. Not really interested in the bar scene at this point in time, so content ourselves with watching "nekkid" folk jump off from a distance. Then on to Peter Island where we anchor for the night in Deadman's Bay and dink ashore, take a tour of the new spa, eyeball a simply HUGE motor yacht (about 160 feet in length and 4 above-deck levels) near us which seems to have about 3 guests and 25 crew members aboard (is this the way the other half lives?).
Wake up on
April 19 to watch ribbons of bait fish again and an immense turtle swimming near Shamu. This fellow gives me quite a surprise. I spot a large pale blob floating under the surface of the water and, being a cold North Atlantic kid, immediately think "jelly fish". Imagine my shock when this totally "ET"- looking head pops up out of the water looking right at me! Then, the barges start landing the cement trucks to work on the spa here at PI. (Not a sight or sound I'd be happy with if I'd paid the 2004 40% increase in prices for PI!). Up anchor and away to Virgin Gorda. Passed Buck Island on Tortola where there is construction of something gargantuan and castle-like going on. No one seems to know if it is a
huge private residence or a hotel/spa. Decide not to attempt the Baths due to the swell, and push on to Long Bay (the first of several Long Bays in the BVI). Dink ashore for snorkelling and the first blood sacrifice to the no-see-um gods of the BVI (Many more similar sacrifices made by me in the following weeks). Then on to Leverick Bay, some shopping and a Painkiller at Pussers (prompt but surly service at the bar, great service and conversation at the store).
Observation:
The best Painkiller you've had is the most recent one. (Or maybe the next one?)
When in the BVI, ask specifically for what you want. Asking "Can we smoke here?" will get an answer of "Of course" - it will not get you a non-existent ashtray - a theme to be repeated until we learn to ask "Can we have an ashtray please?"
There is no graceful way to enter a dinghy - none what so ever! You will tip, overbalance and end up with your fanny in the air - no matter how drunk or sober.
Off to Mosquito Island and Drake's Anchorage for the night.
April 20 - Wake up to our 36th wedding anniversary off Mosquito Island. Can anything be better? Dink ashore and roam around. Very beautiful but eerie place. Bryan grabs a copy of "Don't Stop the Carnival" for me from the remains of the boutique there - how terribly ironic! Motor around the island and anchor off Monkey Point. Snorkel (wonderful), more Shamu cocktails and on to BEYC and Saba Rock. Ashore to the Fat Virgin for surly cocktails and a visit with friends of Ann and Bryan's on their boat. Another wonderful dinner prepared by Ann, but she's getting quite alarmed at our refusal to eat dessert! Stopped today off the beach on the backside of Prickly Pear and swam ashore. While we are ashore Sherry Yates
and Dug check on us to make sure that we are having a good time (Is it possible for things to be better?) We are totally alone here on shore (not counting the wild goats) on a beautiful deserted beach.
April 21 - Off to Anegada. Bob has sprouted a heat rash from neck to waist which is giving him a lot of grief (unusual, as I am the fair one and he tans easily). Great sail to Anegada and we zoom past all boats in our path. Since there is not much to see, I grab a shower on the way (a bit of a challenge in the swells and I decide to prudently skip shaving my legs!). Arrive at ARH in clouds and hubby now suffering terribly from prickly heat (itchy, cranky and not happy at all). Grab a shuttle from ARH to Cow Wreck where we meet some folk from Vancouver who have discovered a 24 inch television (with intact screen) washed up on the beach. Too weird! Can't say we're all that impressed with Anegada, but that has more
to do with overcast skies and heat rash than anything else. Back to the Shamu and off to "Lobster Trap" for Lobster dinner. Nightcap and bed. Not a good night as hubby is itching miserably.
April 22 - Rethink my wish to stay here for 2 days due to heat rash which is now getting alarming in appearance with hige blisters and there's no real shade here. Fast sail back to Virgin Gorda, during which Ann and Bryan notice some rigging maintenance that needs to be done. Anchor at Long Bay where Ann climbs almost to the top of the mast to do repairs, which absolutely scares the living bejeezus out of me who is uncomfortable standing on a table. On to Savannah Bay for a quick snorkel and lunch. Savannah Bay is lovely, but would not provide much in the way of shade for anyone on the beach. After lunch, back to the Baths, which is quite crowded, but clears out almost completely by mid-afternoon. Spend a couple of hours snorkelling and then back to Spring Bay for the night. We are alone here except for one other sailboat and never see a soul on the beach for the rest of the day. This is the most beautiful location. A perfect, perfect beach edged with massive boulders and fringed with graceful palms. I want to swim ashore and stay forever! During the day I have switched my non-digital camera to panoramic mode and the little plastic doodad snapped off, so now I'm stuck in that mode for the rest of the trip. Bummer! (This is NOT a cheap camera!). Bob's heat rash getting worse at nights - he's mega-medicating with rum, which seems to work as long as you maintain the dosage.
April 23 - Up before sunrise to watch the sun come up on Spring Bay. Perfect! Mesmerized by a school of sergeant majors and of yellow snappers that play around the boat for ages. Breakfast and over to Fallen Jerusalem for some excellent snorkelling. No one there but us for the first hour or so. More of the usual fish plus some juvenile queen angelfish, huge stoplight parrots, yellowtail amselfish and some mid size barracuda. Sail on to Marina Cay in a very decadent fashion. It's an easy sail, so Ann and Bryan leave the sun umbrella up on the bow and we sit in the shade of the umbrella in beach chairs sipping Shamu cocktails as we sail. Get lots of "thumbs up" from other boaters that we pass, indicating a hearty approval of this self-indulgence. Life is very, very good. Lunch is awesome club sandwiches. Ann is now very much on to us. She no longer asks us what we want to eat or how much, knowing that we will opt for small portions of salad or fruit. She prepares the food and puts it in front of us and we obligingly devour it all as she is a superb cook. She's happy and we're content but getting fatter by the minute. We snorkel the afternoon away among the boats at Marina Cay and see sting rays and barracuda as well as 2 octopuses (octopi?) that Bryan pointed out to us and that we never would have spotted alone. Drinks on board Shamu and off to catch Michael Beans show. I'm getting a bit cocky about my dinghy exit/entry
skills and attempt to make a quick and graceful leap onto the pier. Unfortunately, the laws of gravity overrule the laws of rum-induced confidence and the dinghy shifts and I almost pitchpole into the drink! Quick recovery (9.0 for that) and a dust off of the ego and we're off up the hill for Michael and his brand of paarrgghty! This is particularly nice as Bryan and Ann were married at Marina Cay and Michael
entertained for their wedding and is a friend. We are lucky (or unlucky) enough to be present when the 2 year record for the longest blow of the conch shell is broken. This guy not only holds a single conch note for 51 seconds, but fondles the conch shell like .... well - some things are best left to the imagination. (He was on his honeymoon). Back to Shamu for another perfect meal of garlic seafood kewers with a mango salsa to die for!
