Sunday July 4, 2004 - Week #2 in the BVI’s dawned with the continued strong winds we had seen all of the first week. We left Trellis Bay and headed Poof Begone out into the Sir Francis Drake Channel fully provisioned and with the water tanks topped off. Our plan was to stop off at the Dogs for some snorkeling then continue on to the Gorda Sound.
Our first tack took us straight across the channel with a reef in the main and the jib but still making over 5.5 knots. As we approached land on the other side we saw a large rain squall building over the island so we tacked off to try and avoid it. We were only partially successful as we caught about 5 minutes of rain from an edge of it and got soaked again. When we reached the Dogs we sailed in between them and took stock of the moorings. We had been warned earlier in the week that most of them were gone and this proved to be the case as we only saw one and it was taken with a few boats circling. A few Cats were anchored off George Dog but that didn’t seem a good idea to us. The crew voted to continue on and make Gorda Sound for lunch and so we set off. The waves continued to build as we made our way east and the sailing became a real Downeast type roller coaster ride.
After rounding Mosquito Island and dropping our sails we pulled up to the inviting beach at Vixen Point. With the wind steady on the bow we crept in close and anchored in 15-20 feet of water and pulled back hard, the Bruce set and we prepared for lunch. A Sunsail boat of about 50 feet was anchored 100 feet off our starboard beam with its crew apparently ashore at the restaurant for lunch. As we sat down to lunch on board I noticed that the other boat was now well astern of us with its anchor chain hanging straight down. As it turned side on to the wind it became obvious that the boat was adrift. I swam the few yards into shore and loudly asked if anyone at the restaurant belonged to the boat now drifting away across the sound. Two men jumped up and ran off to the dinghy dock and gave chase.
They easily caught up with the boat, started the motor and pulled in the chain. They motored determinedly up to the beach and ran the sailboat aground. They were able to back it off and made at least five attempts to anchor. It was easily apparent that they were not letting out enough scope on the anchor for it to set and the boat kept drifting back. They finally gave up and tied off to the dinghy dock near the Vixen Pont Beach Restaurant until they finished their lunch ashore.
We stayed at the beach for a bit then continued on to pick up a mooring off Saba Rock. Normally I would have anchored more on this trip but the steady strong wind and frequent squalls at night put me off it in unfamiliar waters so we were using moorings more than usual. But a good night’s sleep is sometimes worth it.
We ate aboard then went into Saba Rock for after dinner drinks. The crew from the Panache was just finishing dinner and we spent some time with them, learning that this would be their last night in the BVIs. Early that evening a line of strong rain showers came thru and then the wind finally subsided and the sky cleared. We returned to the Poofer and were enjoying our second relatively calm evening of the trip when we were surprised by fireworks from beyond Prickly Pear Island. It was quite a show and a fine ending to another good day.
Monday – Our plan was to take a taxi down to the Baths which would give us a chance to see one of the Islands up close and take in the views. So we motored across the Sound to Leverick Bay where we picked up a mooring. We settled things on the boat and went ashore to secure a taxi. Elton George became the man on the spot and we piled into his open air taxi for the ride over the hills to Spanish Town – it was well worth it. We pulled in to the top of the Baths and walked down the path to the park.
It is easy to see why The Baths are so famous. It is a picturesque spot and snorkeling and climbing around the boulders is great fun. We spent several hours there then climbed back up the hill for lunch at the Top of the Baths. A quick rinse in their fresh water pool was very refreshing and we enjoyed a great lunch of Coconut Shrimp and Coconut Chicken.
Elton returned right on time and gave us a tour of the Fat Virgin with many stops for pictures before dropping us off at Leverick Bay Resort just in time for happy hour. We once again took advantage of the pool and enjoyed the drinks from the beach bar. Gathering up our free bag of ice we returned to “The Poof” for dinner. We had hoped to find some entertainment ashore that night but the only thing available was a DJ at the Bitter End YC which the girls decided to skip. So we stayed aboard for the evening and another good nights sleep.
Tuesday - We were finally able to get on a comfortable run downwind and we all settled back for an easy sail down to Cooper Island. The wind was steady but not as strong as it had been so the swell and waves were much less. We decided to set the main full and put out a slip of the jib to keep the bow steady without having it flap around. (My heart yearned for a whisker pole as we just couldn’t make the furling jib stay wing n’wing without one. This is one of the beauties of the self tending jib on the Freedom, downwind you just pop it out wing n’wing and it stays there) This configuration seemed to work well as we were making a good steady speed thru the water without excessive rolling. We stayed close to VG to see the sights and then passed Salt Island and made good time into Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Isl.
We were surprised to see at least three dozen moorings there as we had been led to believe that there would be only a few. The wind wrapping around the point and over the ridge above the bay had the boats pointing in every direction so once again I opted on a mooring rather than to attempt an anchor and stay out of everyone’s way. We went ashore for the afternoon which was suddenly interrupted by heavy downpours which forced us into the bar – darn. We went back to the boat for a swim and showers and then a late dinner aboard.
Wednesday – BEACH DAY at Cooper Island.- We decide to go over and snorkel Cistern Rock at the edge of the bay. We are going to take the dinghy over but as I look at the very large pontoons I am curious about getting back in so I give it a trial run while still at the boat. Good thing I did! I consider myself to be in pretty good shape – not overweight, work out a couple times a week etc. but no way am I able to haul my 6’2” 52 year old frame back into that dingy. So, necessity being the mother of invention, I rig up a dock line in the dinghy as a type of stirrup over the side and a hand hold in the center. I find that with my Teva sandals on I can quite easily “mount” the beast from the water – OK I know it’s not the proper way and may look funny but it worked!
We set off for a very enjoyable snorkel including the two largest barracuda we have seen in the BVI’s. We are no strangers to Cudas and don’t mind having them around but they are a nasty looking piece of work and can outswim us with one fin tied behind their dorsal. This is also the only place where a school of yellow jacks crowded us obviously looking for food which we weren’t about to give them. Luckily another group of snorklers arrived and the jacks went off to see if they would have better luck with them.
My twelve year old daughter – a cheerleader and dancer has no problem - of course -getting back into the dinghy without using my invention and –of course – has to rag me about it. But I casually slip off my fins, slip on my Tevas put one foot in the stirrup and up and in I go – no problem.
We returned to the “Poof” for lunch and then back in to the beach for the afternoon. We make reservations for dinner with an eye on the Chicken Roti which we had heard is very good here. As our reservation is being put in the book we see an entry “Sunsail – 52” “Are 52 people coming to dinner?” we ask casually. “Oh yes,” comes the reply “it will be no problem”. We return to our beach chairs and watch as a Sunsail Flotilla starts to arrive and fill up the bay. No problem.
We go into dinner – the Sunsail group firmly ensconced in the upper level and we on the lower. No Chicken Roti! – it had all been reserved by the Sunsail group. Words of bribery, mutiny, larceny and other felonies are muttered to our friendly server to no avail – no Chicken Roti. So much for the Pirate spirit in the BVI’s! We eat our meal with an evil eye cast to the Sunsail thieves and assuage our vindictive hearts with dessert instead.
Then back to the “Poof Meister” and another very calm, delightful evening on deck. For some reason the music bug hits us and we sing our way thru old favorites and children’s tunes from when the girls were much younger. I’m not sure anyone of the other boats appreciated “Down by the bay where the watermelons grow” but we finish off with a soulful version of Amazing Grace before finally going below. I can’t sing a lick so I can’t tell you how we must have sounded, but who cares.
Thursday – A planning session with the crew results in the decision to leave Cooper Island bypass Peter Island and make our way to the Indians for the famed snorkel there and then go into the dreaded Bight for our last two nights. Once there we can snorkel The Caves and whatever else strikes our fancy.
So we set off on another very relaxing run down past Peter Island and then reach over to the Indians. We arrive just as a boat is leaving a pick up the mooring. The Indians is definitely one of the best snorkel sites in the BVIs and we enjoyed it very much – staying in the water for over an hour. After leaving we motored off toward the Bight and then are attracted to some red moorings on the east side of the entrance. It is time for lunch so we pick one of them up. There is no one else around so we eat a casual lunch then jump in for another snorkel. It turns out to be one of the nicer ones we did. We see a very nice variety of fish, a turtle and some reef squid. The reef is small but very pretty with some nice canyons and walls.
Once done we head in to The Bight keeping a wary eye on the dark, foreboding shape of the infamous Willy T. OK lets talk about the Willy T. After reading so much on TTOL and seeing all the pictures posted we were very leery about exposing our two girls to the – well – exposures on the Willy T. So we gave it a wide birth and head up to the Pirate’s Bight where we pick up a mooring.
We decide to do happy hour at Pirate’s which was nice but quiet, then return to “Poof Ball” for dinner. Not much else to do at The Bight so we stay in and get a good night’s sleep.
Friday – Up and off to the Caves. We motor over in Poof and approach a mooring. It is our practice for me to man the helm and my wife to pick up the mooring line in these situations. We have been doing it for years but my older daughter is learning the ropes with our youngest giving her a hand, so the three of them are right up on the bow paying close attention to picking up the mooring. The wind is fluky around the caves so a big Cat is in front of us – starboard side on – as I approach the mooring ball. We are all concentrating on getting the line aboard which we do in short order then they look up at the stern of the Cat which is about 20 feet away and find themselves face to face with an older couple “au natural” – well maybe not face to “face” exactly.
We had been prepared for this eventuality but in her surprise my wife blurts out “You’re naked!” – which of course they were.
“Why yes,” comes the reply “is that a problem?” – which of course - with my two young daughters standing there-- was.
A brief dialogue ensued in which they assured us they were in the process of leaving and they finished tying up their dinghy (the one with the motor on it) and departed. Now let me say that I am no prude, but one would think that a body could find a more secluded spot to display its wares than at one of the busiest and most popular snorkeling sites in the BVIs surrounded by Park moorings – but then again that’s just me – or in my wife’s case – us.
Taking our waterproof flashlights we jump in to snorkel the caves. Going in was a bit spooky at first but we got used to it and enjoyed the difference very much. There were fish, sponges and other life in them that we had never seen before as well as lots of tropicals along the outer rock walls. After getting our fill we climbed back aboard the ‘Poofster’ and set off across the entrance to the eastern point again for another very nice snorkel.
Returning into the Bight we head back up to Pirates and a lunch of the Chicken Roti we had been craving since Coopers. The beach here isn’t great but we stay a few hours ashore before returning aboard for showers.
After over 20 years of marriage a couple develops a type of non-verbal understanding. As we stood on deck we both looked at each other and said “It’s our last night here – what the heck lets go to the Willy T.” Before another thought we drop the mooring and start to motor across – the two girls poke their heads out of the hatch and want to know what’s up. We give them the news and we all begin to feel the Pirate in us start to take hold and we creep closer to the infamous William Thornton.
Dinner done – we strap on our resolve and head over just after dark. We can already hear the splash of someone jumping off the stern of the Willy T. My wife and I look at each other and the girls grin. We tie up and go aboard. About a half dozen people are eating dinner with an equal number in the bar. Half of these are kids or teenagers – are these people mad? You can’t bring children here! We soon discover that the “jumper” is a 12 year old boy – in a very proper bathing suit – who keeps making the circuit up, off the stern, and back aboard. The bar scene picks up a little and we spend time with two couples from Michigan we had met earlier at the Pirate’s Bight. Neither seem inclined to take off their clothes or lay on the bar. The girls are fascinated by the large school of large fish that are devouring the table scraps thrown overboard – some people claim they include small sharks.
The music gets louder and a few of the kids start dancing, we finish our beers. Still nothing has happened out of the ordinary – everyone is enjoying themselves; laughing and talking. It’s getting late and we have a long day ahead tomorrow so we finally push off the Willy T and head back to the ‘Poof Begone’. I think we were actually disappointed nothing did happen that we could talk about – then I looked at my 12 year old and realize from her smile that she didn’t care – she had stepped foot on the nefarious Willy T. and survived!!!!
Saturday - We linger at The Bight while we pack most of our things. It is hard to believe that we have come to the end of our trip. Most of the boats have left and the mooring field is empty so I decide to sail off the mooring giving my oldest daughter a lesson in this easy maneuver. We set the main, cast off the mooring line and sail off. I look back over the transom to the Willy T. Funny, but is doesn’t seem nearly as dark or dangerous as it did two days ago.
We make a fabulous close reach across the Sir Francis Drake Channel toward Road Town. It is a wonderful fast sail for our final day and I lean off the leeward rail to get as close to the wind and the water as I can taking it all in. The reach ends too soon as we enter the harbor drop our sails and pick up a pilot from Conch who will take the boat in. I regretfully hand over the wheel.
After a quick check out at the dock we get our bags on the taxi and head off to the airport. We check in quickly and almost run over to Trellis Bay for a nice long lunch at the Cyber Café. Our flight is scheduled to leave at 3:10 PM so we are forced to head back to the terminal.
American Airlines again performs admirably and we pass thru San Juan and on to Hartford with no problems, landing about 10 minutes early. As our luggage rolls off the carousel we resign ourselves to the end of a great BVI adventure.
End of part 2.
