Here is my trip diary. I know it is long, and has a lot of detail. I think I am a frustrated author. (Well, I co-authored a book last year). But I hope you can get a few memories reestablished, and get a few tips from us. My fiancé, M, and I, both in our 50’s, took our first trip to the BVI’s last week. It was a wonderful, magical trip, and I thank you all for your advice.
Thursday, January 20, 2005
Arrive in STT 2:20 p.m. after 2 hr. delay in Boston due to de-icing from fluffy 5 in. snow. Harbinger of things to come. AA Captain very apologetic about delay. That’s a nice change. Easy getting bags, but into cacophony of Taxi vans. “Where are you going?” Have to share taxi or its $60 to Ferry! Get 3:30 p.m. (leaves at 3:45 p.m.) Ferry from Smith’s – unexpected time. Easy trip. Exhilarating outside on deck. This seems like an easier way to get to Tortola, rather than to San Juan, and then Beef Island, as my new TTOL friends have explained. Arrive at the little Ferry office in WE. Immigration officer friendly. When we announce it is our first time in the BVI’s, he asks, “What took you so long to come?” Alex from Denzil Clyne meets us and gives us hardtop Daihatsu. A few $ more than soft top, but need it for luggage. It was a great and fun car to have on the narrow roads and switchbacks! Steering wheel on left made driving a lot easier than other left drive countries. We take Zion Hill Rd. and get our first view and “oohs and ahs” you talk about on TTOL. What a beautiful country! We meet Uschi at Sebastian’s, and friendly Jazzy the dog, I had read about. Great vistas and crashing swells on ride to Carrot Bay. Get to Coconut Point and Bougainvillea. Well, it served our purposes, and had a nice layout, and a comfortable bed with good A/C in the main bedroom, but we were a bit disappointed in that there was a musty smell in the rest of the house, and the place needs “updating.” The view of the water, while nice, was back a ways and somewhat blocked by trees and a driveway. I was a little surprised, since the reviews by TTOLers were all quite positive. All in all, not bad, but not quite up to our usual standards, and we are not fussy travelers. Uschi left a nice wine and cheese welcome snack, which we devoured, over the shadows of sunset. We tried to get used to the roads, and had magical views to Cane Garden Bay. Saw all the sights like Myett's and Quito's we had read about. Stopped for provisions at the nicely stocked Bobby’s and then had a great meal at Palm’s Delight. Snapper and accoutrements. What a nice welcome to the BVI’s!
Friday, January 21.
Breakfast from our large porch looking over Jost Van Dyke. Rode to Long Bay and then started out on our Tour of Tortola. Outstanding vistas almost at every turn. Went through CGB, and climbed to Sky View for their special pink Pain Killer at 11:30 a.m. Nice bartender but we can hardly understand him. Somehow, get directions and turn at “green trash container” to get to Brewers Bay. During the day we meet goats with babies, cows, and that famous donkey. They don’t even move for cars. Good waves at Brewer’s Bay, a quite nice beach. A little reminiscent of Trunk Bay in St. John. Chat with Minnesotans. We met lots of tourists during the week, all friendly, mainly from the Midwest and East, all cold places! Great cheeseburgers and hospitality at Nicole's, and then to Josiah’s Bay. Secluded and beautiful. Policewoman guides us through construction on East End near Lambert’s Bay, which we glimpse from afar. Now we’re on the flat (mostly) South Coast. Stop at Fat Hog Bob’s to see pelicans and view. Stop at Brandywine Bay Restaurant. Not easy to find! Meet Davide, and when I mention seeing him on the ‘Net, he mentions TTOL, Walker and Manpot, and he becomes even more gracious and friendly. We vow to return during the week. Road Town tour just on Waterfront Dr. as we hit “rush hour.” And drive the West End route, then past Carrot Bay to Windy Hill, and wonderful drinks and sunset at Bananakeet, truly one of the best places to see a sunset, as TTOL advises. Dinner at Sugar Mill. We have very good tuna and duck, heavenly Coconut Cloud dessert. Nice atmosphere, and meet and chat with two friendly US couples. Very good food, but servers a bit stuffy.
Saturday, January 22
Get tips from Garrett, our Coconut Point neighbor, a lawyer from England, who has settled in Tortola and is building a house here. Tells us to look up Matt at Smugglers’ Cove. Tour Egberth's North Shore Shell Museum (another TTOL tip) with its interesting jumble and aphorisms painted on boards, and make dinner reservations. Told Egberth I don’t eat pork ribs. No problem. He will buy beef ribs especially for me! Decide to go to Road Town via the hills. Seems longer and, of course, curvier. I’m sure you get used to it. Get there through Joe’s Hill Rd. A little shopping. Sunny Caribee, Serendipity Bookstore, the Bakery, Pusser’s for souvenirs. Some stores closing early on Saturday. Road Town is not exactly a shopping mecca, but somewhat quaint, and a few nice stores. Go to Smuggler’s Cove through that rocky narrow road, past LBBR (turn at Belmont sign). Meet Matt at his beach restaurant, and have a Thai Chicken Salad worthy of a fine urban bistro. See some upscale Belmont Point types there. What a beautiful beach, and great swim. That and White Bay were the best. Get caught in a bit of a riptide, but make it back OK. Everyone friendly in Tortola. Kids say “Hi” on the roads, as do adults. Great sunset from Carrot Bay. Wonderful Barbeque dinner at Egberth’s: Chicken, Beef Ribs and a bit of Conch with excellent mango and soursop daiquiris, coconut bread, breadfruit and mango. And then Egbert spends the evening telling us history stories, and answering our questions. What a sincere, gentle man! Wish he had more patrons (Hint!).
Sunday, January 23.
Change plans to go to Jost, and call White Squall II. Plenty of Room. Get boat at Village Cay in Road Town. Beautiful 80’ wooden schooner. I am not a sailor, so this is our only attempt at doing that, folks! Only one other couple traveling with us! Become fast friends with Tony and Julie from near Manchester UK. Crew of Chris and Debs friendly and helpful. Get beautiful Road Town views, and sail on a perfect day, but not much wind. Snorkel at the Caves near Norman Island, and stop at Pirates for a great Bushwacker. Nice lunch on board and then more snorkeling at the Indians, but not as clear. Pain Killers at Village Cay Bar, and drive Tony and Julie to LBBR where they are staying . Nice room and they are quite satisfied. Another nice sunset at Carrot Bay, and then to Coco Plums (another TTOL reco.). Met Cheryl, former NH resident and Bomba bartender. Get my Patriots fix on TV. They won! Good Mahi-Mahi. Back at the place see all we want to see of the 30” blizzard taking place in Massachusetts!.
Monday, January 24.
To Virgin Gorda from Smith’s in Road Town. Easy to park near ferry, and anywhere in Tortola. No hassles like back home. But accosted by Ferry reps., each touting their service. Kind of amusing. Settle on Smith’s and a supposed cab pick up by Kumba. Nice ferry to VG, and chats with other Mass. couple and George, an apple farmer from NY, who knows Kumba and Cyril, another driver. But at VG, no Kumba. Get ride from Das to the Baths. Wonderful tour of the Baths. Convenient to put stuff in lockers on the beach. Directions to Devil’s Bay are a bit confusing, as we take wrong turn and wind up in chest deep water. Go back and latch on to tour. Take left at the Cathedral area! Unique place. A little like New England, and the Southwest too. Nooks and crannies. Better than the photos, and then relax and swim at beautiful Devil’s Bay. I see why it is BVI’s most famous attraction. Back for a lunch at Mad Dog’s. Friendly place, and more reasonable than Top of the Baths, which does have a better view. Das shows up and were off on a VG tour to Little Dix Bay Resort. Introduces us to everyone. What a place, but a bit dear for our $. Then Savannah Bay, and meet Phillip for a change in drivers. He is from Dominica, and enjoys my travel diary memories from a prior trip there. Fantastic North Sound views, and the Copper Mine. Good stories of VG. He is not quite accepted as non native BVIer, even though many are from other Islands, as we find out. Brandywine Bay for dinner. Nice greeting from Nadine. Wonderful meal of chowder, sea bass, steak, and panna cotta for dessert. Cele reads us the menu, and Davide comes out of the kitchen for a greeting. It is like we have known him for years! He goes around the tables and seems to know most diners. Then, he invites us for grappa in the terrace area. We talk about his life, Island life, and it is as if we are guests in his home. What a memorable time at Brandywine Bay. Thanks, Davide, and TTOL for telling us about it.
Tuesday, January 25
Our only really cloudy day. Not bad, especially with all the January rain we read about. We will have a semi-lazy day on Tortola. Get to Soper’s Hole, and Pisces. TTOL connection makes Omar our friend immediately. Nice tropical setting, and great veggie omelet. Shows us photos of new son, Omary. Hit the shops at Soper’s. Well stocked Harbour Market there, (good to find bananas!), and run into some of our new friends from Sugar Mill. Back to Pisces to send a few free e-mails back home, courtesy of Omar. Phone cards are on order. Ride around Long Bay and Apple Bay, and then CGB. Stop at Mongoose, and chat with Sandy, the owner. Nice simple clean rooms with a great reputation. Get a little lost trying to find Lighthouse to check out. Stop at Mountain Top for a view, sort of cloudy. Talk with couple on Blues Cruise, which is in Road Town. Stop at Columbian Emeralds. Chat with Tannia, but no purchase. Phew! Another Pain Killer at Village Cay and chat with some Blues Cruisers. Getting more comfortable with the roads. Dinner at Quito’s. No hamburgers as we had hoped for. But very good Salmon Bisque and Roti. Watch waves go sideways. Pretty view and then the mellow sounds of Quito. Especially liked “Tortola”, which I had heard on the ‘Net. One of your sites, I’m not sure which one. Then it’s on to Bomba’s for the Full Moon Party! It’s really not our thing, but I guess you have to be there. See a few familiar faces, and meet Tony and Julie. But we leave before it is too wild, if it ever got that way. Looks like about 90% tourists.
Wednesday January 26
Weather Channel featuring Boston blizzard all the time, and more snow coming! We are going to Jost Van Dyke. Get Paradise ferry from WE, and arrive at Great Harbour. Meet couple we had seen from RI, and get group taxi to White Bay. Incredible white sand and turquoise water. This may be the best beach ever! But a little disturbing to see signs at Sandcastles. “Chairs for guests only. Area for guests only.” Gee, I thought this was even more laid back than Tortola. Make our way to the right and in front of Seddy’s One Love Bar. We are welcomed to sit on their loungers, and its good, since tide is coming in close. Nice Rasta and Reggae and Bushwackers. Right in the middle of a Toyota Manager’s Convention. They are on a sail-cruise ship. But they are friendly. It is funny to see the “advance team” with walkie-talkies, making sure everything is just right. Seddy does his famous? rope trick for us. Still can’t figure out how he did it. Great swimming and limin’ Then to Soggy Dollar. Debbie and Sandy make great Pain Killers, and we meet Cambridge MA couple. Claude gives us taxi ride to Great Harbour. We get to Foxy’s but Foxy is not feeling well, and is not performing. Too late for lunch there, so we go to Ali Baba’s for good flying fish sandwiches and more PKs. No time for touring rest of Jost, but I think we saw and experienced the essentials. Back in Tortola, search for Manpot’s Chateau, without luck. I thought it was near Sunset House on Apple Bay, but must have missed the road. Call to Cheryl at Purple Pineapple, but no time to see other properties – for next time! She recommends Jolly Roger for dinner. Yes, we found it, and had tasty chowder and a nice burger on the water. A good last meal on Tortola.
Thursday, January 27
Up early for 7:00 a.m. WE ferry to STT. Actually its 7:30 today, but that boat doesn’t come. Nice talk with harbormaster Allan Rhymer, who owns Round Hill in CGB. Sounds delightful. We get a later ferry, which is actually a New England Fast Ferry, taking cruise passengers to Jost. So we have an unexpected last look at Jost and then get to Charlotte Amalie by 9:30 a.m. Leave bags with taxi driver, Terrence, who tells us he also owns Coco Plums! You can leave bags with them as long as you taxi with them to airport. The taxi drivers appear to be the gentry class in the BVI’s and STT. We have one hour in St. Thomas. Hit a favorite store, Marco Polo for a small jewelry purchase, and then a watch for M. Coffee at Gladys’, a little walking, and then taxi to airport. Very quick. Customs a breeze. Plane was on time. So sad to leave.
Well, it was a wonderful week in the BVI’s, our first time. I hope it is not our last. I again thank all TTOLers for information and tips. They were helpful, and as you can see, we made “friends” just by mentioning TTOL. It is a great online community. If I can assist with any answers to questions, please feel free to ask.
KingAJH
