There is a much longer and more detailed trip report to follow in the coming days, but I thought I’d like to get a few highlights out there while they are fresh in my mind. And the Kingston Trio is doing “Sloop John B” on PBS on TV. And it’s 38 degrees outside!
We had an astoundingly wonderful trip again. I’d like to point out the highs (many many many of these) and the lows (not many, but significant, at least to us).
One thing this trip taught us is that we are hopelessly in love with the BVIs and Tortola in particular. We love the ambiance and the people fiercely. We love the cows and donkeys and chickens on the roads (and this year, the pigs and the peacocks!). We love picking locals up as we are driving and hearing their stories. We love meeting other people who are visitors whose love for the BVI is as great as ours.
We spent 2 weeks on the “ilons” this year. One week on JVD and one week on Tortola.
Jost Van Dyke:
Highs:
Oliver at Sandcastle: - what a chef! What amazing Black Bean Soup! Oliver - we are so sorry that we couldn’t possibly do justice to each meal, and actually left food on our plates!!! Sorry, sorry, sorry!
Sandy and Roger at Sandcastle: - these new managers are a wonderful asset to the hotel. Sandy is someone I fell in love with immediately. She is a gracious, funny sweetheart of a lady whom we adore! Roger is a wealth of local information.
Jewel’s Snack Shack: - best cheeseburger in paradise ever! When eaten with a rum punch, listening to Reuben play - sheer bliss!
Corsairs: - wonderful visit with Vinny. Unbelievable lobster (best anywhere!). Outrageous chicken wings (best anywhere!). Vinny - keep up the HD effort!
White Bay: - still the most heartbreakingly beautiful piece of real estate in the world!
Blossom at Sandcastle: - this lady sometimes cleans rooms and sometimes cleans the grounds. What a sweetheart! Blossom - “Hi” from “momma” in Canada!
All the staff at Sandcastle: KC, Tina, Claire, Shaneek...... We miss you all already!
TTOLers: - ran into Donna of “Wolf” and Doug and Bobbie from TTOL. Great meeting you guys!!!
Lows:
Day trips: - oh man, this was bad! Every day (not just weekends) was a nightmare of large day trip boats from Tortola and the USVI on the beach in front of Sandcastle. As far as we could see, they don’t actually spend much money there as they have an all-inclusive day trip, so they bring their drinks ashore and leave their garbage when they go. 10 AM to 5 PM is like spring break in Daytona each day. (There were at least 4-5 hundred people on the beach every day we were there)
Cruise ships: - Seaborn Cruise Lines 2 cruise ships Seadream I and II now come into White Bay once a week each (Saturday and Monday). As I was told, Cyril Romney owns a slice of White Bay near the ATV concession at the west end of the bay and has built a patio there and has a contract with Seaborn to bring their boaters ashore and provide the patio for them to set up a caviar/champagne/BBQ day for the cruisers. (Again - not a cent going to the JVD economy, except into the pockets of whoever owns the patio they use).
The reef: - I don’t know if the influx of boats or increased water toy activity (water skiing) is responsible or not, but the reef is way deader than last year. Too sad.
Tortola
Highs:
Bananakeet Café: - this is my new favourite place in the world. What a wonderful view of JVD, Long Bay, Apple Bay and Carrot Bay. Great wings! Great lobster! Superb waitress (Maggie). Great chat with Clem who plays steel drums there from 4 to 6 every day but Monday. This is my happy hour home on Tortola!!!
Long Bay East on Beef Island: - beautiful beach, superb snorkelling on the reef and in the eel grass. Rays, turtles and wonderful clarity.
Quito’s new Gazebo - superb jerk shrimp and the new venue is great!
Palm’s Delight: - even better gingerwine chicken than last year!
Sugar Mill: - great accommodations and service again. Interesting Cuban tree toad who squirted a rain of liquid all over us from the door top one night! Didn’t know whether to shower it off or lick it (since they are supposedly related to cane toads)!
Dawn at Coco Plums!: - a darling!
Eggbert at North Shore Shell Museum: - what a wealth of island information and stories about the way things used to be. I have his address and will be sending him beads from a wholesaler up here to be used by his kids in making the chimes and other things he sells to support his works. Great (if HOT) fungi night!
TTOLers: - wonderful evening at NSSM with Pat and Andy (Searose and Mr. Searose), Helen and Steve (Tillie and Mr. Tillie) and Mark and Marilyn and Emily (Mcrofut and Mrs. Mcrofut and daughter). Then ran into all (except Helen and Steve) again at LB East 2 days later along with a couple from Conneticut (Kathleeen and???)
The Lurkers: - ran into many, many people who are not TTOL members but hang out here. They may be members soon! Especially loved meeting the couple from Minnesota who were staying in CGB. Her parents have been coming to the BVIs for decades and her father evidently clipped Bomba’s caddy years ago. When confronted by Bomba, he asked that Bomba show him the new damage. Apparently Bomba couldn’t find a new dent in the old stuff! I think Bomba is still looking for him tho!!!
Lows:
Brewer’s Bay: - like White Bay, the reef has diminished considerably in the last year - can’t blame it on boats this time!
