Uneventful flight from IAD nonstop to SXM. Only about 1/3 full. Took off on time at 8:35 and landed 15 minutes early about 13:20. The new airport is great. We were through immigration in 10 minutes and our bags were on the carousel waiting for us.

All the people were dropping off rental cars, we were the only ones picking up. Noted all the scratches and dings, tires in good shape. In just a few minutes we set off to Match and Bounty for supplies. By 15:00 we are checking into the Suite Nacre at Sol e Luna (http://www.sxm-hotels.com/soleluna/). Fantastic room and location although not on the water is the only drawback. But for $868 for the week the rooms and facilities are up there with the best. Our patio had a hot tub and we were only about 20 steps from the pool. Less than ten minutes to Grand Case or OB.

SeL is one of the best restaurants on the inland. The décor is a spectacular combination of Creole and Mediterranean. It is located in Mt. Vernon on the road to the old Mt. Vernon hotel. There are six apartments terraced on the hillside above restaurant. We felt like a villa. Although guests occupied two other apartments, most of the time it felt like we had the place to ourselves. I will post a detailed report about rooms and facilities SeL on TripAdvisor.

There are lots pictures of Sol e Luna at: http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/lasermansxm/Sol%20e%20Luna/?

Photos of beaches we visited on this trip can be found at:
http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l287/lasermansxm/SXM%20Nov06/

Best viewed as a slide show

Weather: When we arrived it was 89 and humid. By Thursday it was comfortable enough to sleep w/o AC. Typical rain on a few days for 10-30 minutes, except for Thursday when the morning was a washout and squalls resumed in the evening. The wind picked up later in the week.

Beach erosion: On our first day we noticed some erosion on OB and by Wednesday evening it was clear that it was getting worse. The sand around the stools at Kon Tiki Beach Bar was disappearing. By Thursday morning they were gone and the sand under half of the bar was gone. The bar was listing by 15 degrees. On Friday morning the bar was now resting 2 feet below where it used to be. Ropes were attached to make sure it did not float away. About half of the usable beach area is gone at Club O and much of OB.

Safety: We encountered no problems and never felt at risk. We did find the trunk of our car unlocked after a morning walk on OB, but there was no evidence it had been tampered. The car had all power windows so that trick was unavailable. It’s possible I accidentally triggered the trunk release when we got out. We leave our flip flops and T-shirts on the front seat w/o any problems.

Food: Details below, but every meal was very good to fantastic. Prices are quoted in USD before tips.

Each day we started of with a round trip walk on OB and tried to get one more in before the sun went down. Dinner on Saturday was at Le Taitu (http://www.letaitu.com/) which is a short walk from SeL. We shared the Creole appetizer platter (spicy fish fritters, crab farci and Christophine Farci which is a stuffed local squash.) Jo had the Mahi-Mahi in coconut milk sauce, I had skate fish in a curry sauce. Two martinis, two glasses of house wine and the bill was $56+tip. Le Taitu is a favorite and great value.

There was a downpour around 23:00, but the sound off the metal roof was very pleasant and when we closed the wooden shutters the room was completely dark. Great for sleeping. Mosquitoes are still a problem because of all the rain, but our room came equipped with several Citronella candles that kept them under control. Woke on Sunday to find that the French water system was not working, but we had bottled water for the espresso machine and we used water from the hot tub to re-fill the toilet tank. It was working by the time we returned from our walk. Made breakfast and returned for a short visit to OB for a little sun on our first full day. Then headed to Grand Case for a late lunch at the Sky’s the Limit. Plate of ribs and garlic shrimp, 2 Presidentes and the tab came to $11+. There was a great local band a Pedro’s on Sunday afternoon.

Dinner on Sunday was at Tabba Kahady (http://englishversion.tabba-khady.com/index.html). William was visiting family in the States for Thanks Giving so Phillipe was running the front of the house as well. It was slow that evening, but he said the prior week was hectic and he was looking forward to William’s return. We shared an appetizer of Vietnamese egg rolls with mint and nuocman sauce. Jo had the scallops and shrimp in a saffron potage, I had grouper in a fresh basil cream sauce with zucchini and tomatoes in a black olive and pesto puree sauce. With a nice bottle of wine the tab was $74+.

Monday we spent the afternoon at OB. It was so crowded there were only a few chairs and umbrellas available at the Club O end of the beach. Dinner was at Yevette’s (no web site). We split the combination appetizer plate (Yevette’s conch salad, crab meat, steamed shrimp). Jo had the Creole Snapper and I had Garlic shrimp. Way too much food and we took the leftovers home for a fantastic lunch. We had a couple of glasses of wine (“we don’t have chardonnay, just regular wine”) I suggest you stick with the beer. $47+.

Tuesday was spent on Baie Rouge. Coming from the Dutch side the directional sign is clear, not so coming from Marigot. Absolutely gorgeous. It is almost as long as OB, but there were never more than 30 people on the entire beach. There are photos on our PhotoBucket link. The CO visitors move down the beach where there are no chairs for rent. We watched Anguilla get drenched for a couple of hours, but it was beautiful on BR. About 13:00 a brief storm rolled in and we took refuge at Chez Raymond for lunch. Two rib platters (rice & lentils, potato salad, green salad and plantains). With 2 Red Stripes the bill was $26+. One plate would have been enough for both of us, but we did not know the serving sizes in advance. Returned to the beach until 16:00. Beware the surf can be dangerous, the drop off is quick. One lady found herself in trouble. We heard her screaming about 50 yards away. Luckily there were two men who were strong swimmers in the water just a few yards from her. They got her ashore, but she was clearly shaken up.

Dinner that night was at Sol e Luna. (http://www.solelunarestaurant.com/). Charlotte has had her baby, a boy named Dylan. Mother, grandmother and grandfather all seem well and very happy. Ash, Charlotte and Brigitte took great care in the service, Christian and his crew serve meals that are special in the wonderful combinations of flavors and beautiful presentations. We started with the Mesclum Salad, Jo had the sea bass in a light sauce with island vegetables, I had duck breast with bak choy and shitake mushrooms with a balsamic syrup. With a nice Bordeaux the bill came to $100+.

Wednesday morning brought more rain than sun. Our morning walk on OB ended after about 2/3 of the trip as the few of us on the beach ran for cover. The entire eastern horizon was dark gray and there were heavy downpours until about noon. By the afternoon it had cleared, but we spent the rest of the day hanging around our apartment. Dinner was at La California (http://www.california-restaurant.com/). We split a Caesar Salad which they prepare with a mixture of greens rather than the traditional romaine, but with plenty of anchovies and a great dressing. Jo had scallops and jumbo shrimp in a Cajun sauce, I had duck again, this time with a raspberry sauce. Drinks, a bottle of St. Emillion and the check came to $92+.

Thursday was off to Happy Bay for 3 hours. We took the southern road to Friar’s Bay. After negotiating one very large crater just where the pavement stops, we found the rest of the road has been smoothed out from our first visit. It was one of the worst we have encountered. Now it is no problem. Easy walk to HB, but wear good shoes. The beach is beautiful, small but only 20 visitors. Two beach boys looking for some action, but they left everyone alone. CO is fine, most were. No chairs for rent or food service. Friar’s Bay was busy and the services there looked like they do a good business. No odor from the marsh. There is evidence of infrastructure construction, so look for more development there.

Late lunch at Germaine’s (lolo in GC behind, Talk of the Town). Plate of ribs, Creole shrimps over red beans and rice (yum), Presidentes and the total was $16.50+. Dinner was at Spiga (http://www.spiga-sxm.com/). This was the only disappointing meal, not bad, just that our choices of entrees did not match up to previous visits. The waiter recommended the braised beef shank and our other main course was chicken. Both were ordinary. Service was fantastic. Total was $100+ including drinks and a nice Italian Merlot. Next time we will stick with our favorites including the lobster ravioli, rack of lamb.

Friday we headed back to OB for one last day at the beach, but the wind was blowing hard. Within minutes Jo had dust in her contacts, the beach towels were flying so we decided to retreat to the pool at the apartment. We had it to ourselves.

It is now Friday afternoon. We’ll have our final dinner for this trip at Sol e Luna this evening. Our flight leaves tomorrow around 16:00 so we’ll take one last morning walk on OB and spend some on the Dutch side before we say au revior.