Just returned from a great week. We were not planning on a SXM trip this year having already taken three others for vacation and family events. But, UA opened up saver FF seats for December & I decided to see what we could do on a budget.
We stayed in an apartment in a villa in Oyster Pond. The villa is owned by Maryse & Gerard Gachot. They have lived there for 14 years. It is located on a hilltop above Coralita Beach. You turn at the corner where Tabba Kahady used to be and head up the hill. The family (including teenage kids and a grand mother) lives on the main level where there is a pool that is available for guests with 270 degree views from St. Barths to Pic Paradise. One level down is a spacious one bedroom apartment with a 10’x20” covered patio. The view from the apartment is across Baie de l’Embochure to Orient Beach, Pinel, Mt. Vernon and Anguilla. It is clean and comfortable with a complete kitchen. I would describe it a rustic Caribbean. Price for the week was $392.
To keep the trip “on budget” we decided to forego some of our more expensive favorite restaurants, but still wanted the food experience we have come to expect on French SXM. We dined at Le Taitu, Poulet d’Orleans, California, Gutside, Talk of the Town, The Sky’s the Limit, a new place in Oyster Pond and lunch at Pineapple Pete’s before catching our flight home.
All were excellent, but two stand out. Gutside has a limited menu, but Richard’s Creole cooking is outstanding and he is a great host. The fish special (swordfish) and his Creole shrimp, 4 glasses of wine totaled $39 + tip. Quai Quest is a new restaurant in OP on the marina recommended by Maryse. The style is traditional French. Nadia cooks and Betty provides the service. The food and atmosphere are terrific, the ladies run a fun operation. We went back a second time. Prices are in Euros with 1-1.3 exchange. Even with a $24 bottle of wine the totals were only about $60 +tip for duck breast, shrimp & scallops in a puff pastry, chicken with exotic mushrooms, braised lamb. They were very busy on both of our visits. Their location helps and everyone seems to know Nadia.
To keep the battle of the Lolo’s going, while we like TOTT and Germaine’s, we prefer TSTL. The ribs are equally good at all places, but we love the garlic shrimp at TSTL and beers are only $1. There have been big improvements at TSTL including tile floors, permanent cooking cabinets, covered cooking area and new tables with cushioned benches. A fifth lolo has opened in the space on the water behind Germaine’s.
Some general observations. Regarding crime we saw none and did not hear reports from anyone else. Never felt unsafe. We drive remote roads at night without problems. The French Quarter did not seem as edgy as in the past, there were lots of locals out at night. We saw Gendarmes, but they were usually having lunch. No inspection points anywhere.
Many sections of road on the French side have been repaved. We encountered very little traffic, but we did spend most of our time between OP and GC. Even two trips to Grand Marche in the afternoon weren’t bad. Traffic backs up around 4PM in the French Quarter when school gets out. The night we went to Gutside the traffic from GC was light, but the cars were queued as far as we could see coming from Marigot. Richard says it frequently takes him over an hour in the morning to come from P’Burg to his restaurant. The trip from OP to the airport on Sunday took only 30 minutes using the route along the water in Marigot.
There is a lot of construction on the section of the road between the GC airport and the turn to Cul d’ Sac. Looks mostly like warehouse and light industrial. Also new condos near the airport entrance.
Cupecoy is looking like a concrete jungle. Soon you will not be able to see the Ocean from the road. At least some of the buildings have interesting architectural design unlike the Westin which has the style of a 1960’s Soviet government building. We also saw several areas where hillsides are being graded for even more development. I think traffic and over building will be the factor that ultimately destroys the charm of this island.
The weather was great the entire week. We had light rain on three occasions in early morning or late at night. One heavy downpour lasting 10 minutes began shortly after the happy hour bell at the Perch, so the timing was perfect.
There was some work taking place on the pot holes in the OB parking lot. Basically filling them with dirt. I would be surprised if it lasts longer than a couple of storms.
The dollar is becoming the currency of choice on the French side for many businesses. The Cadisco takes 1:1 for gas $1.03/liter. I have no idea how they do that. The cars are queued up all the time and many have Dutch plates. All the locals pay in dollars. Same at the lolos. The Cash & Carry in GC took 1:1.
And finally, regarding the budget. We ended up spending about $1400 (ex airfare) for everything including housing, rental car & gas, beach chair rentals, food for the apartment (French ham, eggs, pate, baguettes, bottled water, coffee, fruit juice) mosquito protection (spray, candles, coils), plenty of libations and tips. And, most of what we spent was with locally owned small businesses. This style of travel will not be for everyone, but it worked for us. For high season in SXM we considered it a bargain. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Thumbsup.gif" alt="" />