Wednesday we went to the Marigot Market. There was plenty of parking available and we brought the wheelchair for my mother, although it was a bit dicey maneuvering amongst the stalls. It seemed most of the stalls had the same T-shirts, magnets, key chains etc. I always get a magnet as that is my "thing" as far as souvenirs go. They're small and serve as a reminder of all the places I've been. I was relieved to spot a few local artists. One woman said she and her husband design and make their own shirts. While they are $25 vs the $5 for the mass produced kind, it is exactly the fact that they are small runs of unique designs that I like. There was also a stand selling Larimar jewelry set in sterling that was priced by the weight. This was mostly a scouting mission for me as I will be returning next week with my daughter, so she and I can also climb the steps to the Fort. My husband has a hip replacement and does not want to do it and my mother would not be capable.

I went into Sarafina's and, while the pastries looked really good, did not get anything as several recent Trip Advisor reviews have mentioned vermin problems. There were actually quite a few pigeons walking around the cases. I also took a look at the fish vendors and was quite surprised to see the fish laid out in the cases literally covered with flies. No one was even bothering to wave them away. Ewww.

We went to Chabin's for lunch but we were actually very early. It had not taken as long as I thought it would to go through the market. Although it was early the owner said his cook was there so it was all good to go. I had picked this place because I had read he smoked really good ribs on Wednesdays but he said there were not enough people to make it worth his while. Sigh... We wanted something cold to drink so he said he would make us something special, 2 with alcohol and 1 (me, the driver) without. It was really good, a banana and rum( for them) concoction with something else I couldn't place. It was actually also filling so my mother and I did not want to order food. He told us the Tuna Steak was "just cooked" and would be better than the snapper so we ordered one to share. It was roughly 6 ounces, grilled medium rare, and very nicely seasoned. It came with a salad and a portion of rice with some cooked beans on top. The rice tasted nicely buttered. I did taste everything and was more than satisfied. As far as the bill, we never received one. He did some calculations and then told my husband "$45". Well, okay. I know the Tuna was $16. We had 4 of the frozen drinks. That would make them each $7.25? That seemed steep to me. Were we charged for waters? Sharing one entree? A surcharge for being American? I have no idea but was not in the mood to argue. It was still a good meal.

Returning to the car we decided to go to Howell Center to the Super U to check it out as my mother had already devoured the Camembert she had bought before. She likes it firm, not soft, and had gotten the Carrefour brand from Grand Marche and loved it. Unfortunately all the ones in Super U were too ripe. While we did not buy any the produce there looked really good. My mother almost fainted in the store and my husband had to run to the car to get the wheelchair. We wheeled her around Howell Center and went inside a bakery. They had 12 macarons for $4.50, much cheaper than anywhere else I had seen. We also tried a "frosted" doughnut covered in actual white and dark chocolate. The macarons did not do anything for me but that doughnut was a winner. I wanted to try a croissant and wow, what a difference over any I have ever eaten in the States, or even on a cruise ship! I heated it in the oven at the timeshare and was loathe to share it. Crispy, flaky on the outside and soft buttery goodness on the inside.

We drove back to Simpson Bay and stopped at the Gourmet Marche still in search of cheese. I personally would not characterize this store as like an Earthfare but more like a C-store. We found some Guavaberry BarBQ sauce to put on our leftover ribs and chicken that is very good.

When we arrived back at the Atrium we found the housekeeper cleaning our unit. I kept telling her not to do the dishes as I would take care of them but she insisted. I really wish she hadn't. She was mopping the floors with a string mop that she wrung out with her bare hands and then proceeded to wash up the kitchen. In times like this ignorance is, indeed, bliss, because this was knowledge I really wish I did not have. I am not naive about cleaning methods in lodging establishments but it is more comforting not to think about that, or what goes on in a restaurant kitchen, and I have worked in those. I am a medical technologist by trade and have run a sterile IVF lab. Stop thinking!

In the afternoon my husband and I drove over to Mullet Bay, to try the snorkeling. We had stopped here once on a cruise and I was not impressed with the snorkeling and this was no different. The water was very nice though. There is a bit of a drop off and the sand is deep. There was an awful lot of trash, everywhere, in the water, up in the sand, in the trees, under the bushes. It was shameful. I wouldn't mind paying an accommodation tax that would be used to hire people to rake up all the trash.

We then drove over to Cupecoy to check out the parking and the beach access. There were very few spots I would try to park in as I treat a rental like I would my own vehicle and that parking area is really rough. The access also looks pretty darn tricky for a hip replacement and my bad knees but we want to try it as the little cove looked really pretty.

Back at the Atrium someone was performing at the Buccaneer so we enjoyed it from our balcony while we tried to make a dent in all the leftovers we have been accumulating. Tomorrow is Orient Bay.
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Thursday we decided to go to Orient Bay. It was a wild, confusing car ride for me and parts of the island look desolate from the ongoing drought. I can see where people might want to drive SUV's as the Corolla struggled slightly, although not as much as a smaller car I was behind at one point who slowed to about 5 mph going uphill. We ended up missing the turn and had to stop for directions. I had thought the big walled entrance that said Baie Orientale was a private facilty. Once we turned in I was able to find Kakao and was hoping others from TTOL would be able to visit with us there but it was not to be.

We rented 2 chairs and hit the water. While I loved the water it was disappointing that there were no fish to see. We had come here 5 years ago on a cruise excursion but I think at the end farthest from Club Orient and I could swear we swam out to some reef close to shore. The sargassum was not that bad and apparently was much worse the day before. There were hardly any people so it was okay for us to use 2 umbrellas to stay in the shade. Neither of us has the desire to get burned.

I gave myself a headache from a combination of sun, swimming and drinking a VERY eclectic assortment of a SUPER strong rum punch, a frozen mojito, (which had to be healthy as it was a ground up lime, ground up mint and rum), and a Guavaberry colada. Lunch was a Salade de Nicoise for me. While good, it would have been much better with fresh grilled tuna, not canned. Bill got a chicken caesar which he said was pretty good. We also devoured a basket of really good bread. One thing the French do extremely well is bake and this bread was the type that I describe as "it fights back." In other words it takes some jaw muscle to wrestle through the crusty exterior, which I love. Nothing is worse to me than limp soft nothing bread. It was so good flavor-wise that it did not need butter, though of course I used a bit anyway.

With no cruise ship in town the beach was pretty much deserted. For the longest time it was just us and another couple. They were older and she went topless, which I thought about doing but she had a good base tan and I have skin that has never seen the light of day. Around 2:30 we decided to call it a day as we still needed to stop at the Cost U Less to restock beer for Bill and scotch for my mother. We then went over to the Grand Marche to get my mother a reload of the Carrefour camembert and garlic stuffed olives. So far she is subsisting on scotch, camembert, and those olives...

It was Prime Rib night at the Greenhouse. Even my mother ordered it. The meat was very good in a mild way. I had some more of those delicious fried plantains and asparagus. The experience was almost like eating at home as a dog was running back and forth in the restaurant and when our food came he parked himself at my side, just like my own dog does. I don't know what I did to encourage him but there's nothing like eating with hot dog breath steaming up your elbow. He also pulled the old "I'll hold still until you try to snap my picture" stunt. Of course this time the bill was higher but $88 for 3 prime rib dinners and 4 drinks isn't too bad I guess. There was a prominent notice in the check cover about the fact that a service charge is not added to the bill. We added 15%.

Back in the unit as I went to straighten up the kitchen I found many, many of those tiny ants swarming around the dishwasher. They are very hard to see on the granite counter tops but you can definitely see them against the white lining of the washer. I ran the dishwasher and after it was done opened the door while it was still pretty hot inside--and darned if there weren't still ants--alive! On the one hand I want maintenance to spray and on the other hand I don't want to be killed myself with insecticide in the kitchen.

Bill's evening was made when he discovered the Clemson game on TV, while I engaged in a series of e-mails with our children who are at home packing for their journeys here on Saturday. After hearing about that computer glitch on American I sure hope my son has no problems. My daughter is coming in on Spirit Air. Luckily their flights are scheduled to land 10 minutes apart.

Thanks for the update. I like your mother's diet!

If you want the best croissants on the island (our opinion) go to la croissanterie in marina royale. Find Tropicana restaurant& go down the steps past Tropicana & you are there. Also special quiche, sandwiches & pizza. Very special place. Owner very nice. We always get takeout for our next meal to reheat!!

Another great installment on your trip.

Years ago ---before Westin Hotel---we went to dawn beach and I was so surprised at all the colorful fish that swam around our legs and how clear & blue that water was. Since the Westin it's not the same. We no longer look to snorkel on the island.

I was shocked when you said the hot water dishwasher didn't kill the ants. Maybe the water isn't as hot as it's supposed to be? Even with a dish washer when we arrive at our unit I boil water on the stove and wash all the utensils , dishes and glasses.

You sound like me with the dish washing. I also bring Clorox wipes and go over the sinks , toilets and doorknobs every time the maids clean. My husband thinks I'm crazy but I tell him I must be doing something right because he is still alive.

Love your reports. Thank you so much. What's with the bird dodo at Serafina's? I hadn't heard anything about that. Last time we were there they were just walking on the tables, yuk. I wiped my hand sanitizer all over the table. Yes, I'm a clean freak. When I eat out I don!t think about the kitchen.

Those wipes start with the airplane and and it embarrasses my husband because people look at me as if I'm crazy. Use them to open the door and as you do in the room. Mind if I use your line with my husband?

I'm in the same boat with my wife. She wipes everything down. Even at home. Give her a go and she'd probably wipe me down too. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/jester.gif" alt="" />

Then your embarrassed (but alive and healthy while still enjoying his vacation) husband can thank you, while the people who looked at you crazy can regret it!! Read this:
http://www.travelmath.com/feature/airline-hygiene-exposed/

All of us crazy, wipe the plane down women are RIGHT! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" />

In general, I am not a germophobe at all, but at the office, I do try to wash my hands with soap and water after I shake hands with anyone, which I do a LOT... With regard to travel, the last time we went to SXM, I was TOTALLY creeped out when Eric put I think it was a sandwich directly on the seat back tray table!!! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Sick.gif" alt="" /> When I totally spazzed out, he looked at me like I was nuts...

Nasty. I would have been creeped out too. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Yikes.gif" alt="" />

Thank you for your detailed reports. I agree that the plain croissant, at La Croissanterie are flaky and delicious. We also love the almond croissant, at the take- out Zee Best on Airport Road.

Good to know about the prime rib at the Greenhouse as we always order fish. We use to get our prime rib at Topper's and split it because it was too much for one of us.

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Then your embarrassed (but alive and healthy while still enjoying his vacation) husband can thank you, while the people who looked at you crazy can regret it!! Read this:
http://www.travelmath.com/feature/airline-hygiene-exposed/

All of us crazy, wipe the plane down women are RIGHT! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Clapping.gif" alt="" /> [/quote ]

Thanks for this link to show to hubby.

]