Flew AA from Dulles to San Juan to SXM. Early morning flights were problem free (a rarity these days) and we arrived at St Maarten on time. Our first experience in the new airport and enjoyed not having to haul bags down the stairs and across the tarmac.

Was amused by comments from a group behind us complaining about the AC (too hot) in the airport. Ahh, had they only arrived at the old airport when it was all open air!

Picked up our SUV from Unity car rental and took off to Club Orient. (great gas mileage and good pick up, and a good rate for the 11 days, were pleased, will use them again.)

Lots of graffiti everywhere - this is new. The construction around Cupecoy was staggering, like they are putting in shopping malls and high rises. Otherwise things seemed the same. Traffic as usual, Mullet still a depressing ruins, road quality was decent. Island seemed very green and lush - sign of a wet spring and mild weather I think.

The road to Club O didn't disappoint and was as bumpy and rocky as ever. The kids and I stocked up on some basics in the shop while my husband checked us in and got our keys. New this trip - no parking in front of your chalet. Once we unloaded everything at #72 beach chalet we moved the car to one of the parking lots.

We had stayed in #72 on our last trip - and while the addition of a coffee maker and microwave were welcome my husband and I were very disappointed to discover that the same horrible mattress from our previous trip remained. There did not seem to be any other upgrades to the chalet other than the addition of two new beach lunges on the patio.

Within an hour we were out on the beach claiming our chairs and seeking out our friends that were already on the island. It was a Monday so we had a few hours of beach time before the Manager's Wine & Cheese social.

The beach was huge. It seems like the regular crew of beach guys is still working there while some of the Papagayo's staff were off on vacation for August. Was curious about the line of green&white umbrellas that were on the CO side of the rock wall, I don't recall there being anything other than Club O yellow umbrellas all the way to the rocks in years past.

We heard stories of previous rainy days but we had really good weather this trip. The occasional rain storm at night (always woke me up as it ran through pounding on the tin roofs and then was gone just as fast) and two during the day while at the beach lasting only minutes, otherwise 10 solid days of sun.

Cruise Ship gawkers didn't seem to be as much as a problem this trip as they have in the past, and while some showed up with cameras they either kept them off or complied when told about the "no photos" rules. Our chairs seemed to have been set up at the exact spot when the Cruise Ship textiles would realize "oh, these people are ~really~ naked" and then turn around and scamper back to the clothed side of the beach. The group we sat with all found it very amusing because it happened so often.

We ate at Papagayos for dinner only 3 times - have never been impressed with the food quality or the expensive prices so only when we're too tired to dress and drive do we resign to eat there. A dinner for 4 cost 83 euros - the next night there were 8 of us (4 adults, 4 kids) that ate at one of the LoLos and the total bills was $68 dollars. That's a big difference, and the kids liked the LoLos food a lot more.

We made it to Baywatch for lunch once, otherwise we just enjoyed a burger at the Perch Bar or a liquid lunch thanks to the 2 for 1 Happy Hour. (Which is hard to juggle - what am I supposed to do with two Pina Coladas? Even if I could drink two the second one will be melted by the time I get to it. I ended up ordering something I knew I could share.)

The recent reports of crime showed up on TTOL the week before we were due to leave for SXM and we were on high alert. Despite going out to dinner most nights and my husband going out later to the casinos multiple nights we did not see any or have any problems with crime. And while others assured me that Club O has the best security on the island there were many times I looked for a security guard and couldn't find one. Some days they made a visible presence on the beach, others there were nowhere.

Which brings me to question the new appearance of vendors on the Club O side of the beach - we never had to deal with this before but every day we were bothered with requests for hair braiding, bracelets, bags, towels, artwork, cds, etc etc etc. It got to the point that I didn't look up from my book and just waved them on. Some of them wouldn't bother you if you looked asleep or busy but others came up to each person and interrupted whatever they were doing. Want to be polite but please, I'm on vacation, leave me alone.

Lots of kids and families back at Club O this August - was a large group of teenagers too which was great, they all kept each other busy. Nice to see so many kids running around.

Dinners out to La California in Grand Case were good (we went twice, 1-1 cash exchange rate), Dingy Dock (was okay), Tallulah Mango's in Phillipsburg (okay but not cheap), the Sky's the Limit lolo (decent price but I like more than a plate of rice with a couple of shrimp) and La Pimente in Orient Village for thin crust pizza (very good).

The only day time excursions were trips to the Butterfly Farm - it being only 2 minutes away from Club Orient. Plus once you pay the entrance fee keep your card, it is good for free visits the rest of your trip. The kids always enjoy it and each time we took a different group. Only stayed about an hour each time, get there in the morning at 9am when they first open so it isn't too hot and you have a better chance of seeing butterflies emerge from their chrysalis.

We had considered trying Lotterie Farm this trip if we had any gray days - but the combination of great beach weather plus hearing about the cost of the zip lines had us skip it again this year.

Saw lots and lots of regular Club O visitors - some from TTOL and others. Did not encounter any stray dogs this year but Club O is jumping with cats, and only one we came across had the notched ear. The store had been remodeled and had a decent selection, but when something ran out it took over a week for them to restock. (we drank all their orangina by Friday, and it wasn't back in stock for the rest of our trip.) Prices were high but you pay for the convenience of being able to walk 50 yards for fresh bread as opposed to dressing and driving across the island to a real grocery store. If we work up late and got to the store by 9am we missed out on fresh croissants - learn the hard way to get there at 8!

Half way through our stay we moved from our beach chalet (with the miserable mattress of doom that left us more tired each morning) so two mini suites - the kids got one side of the building and we the other. Not only was this a much better arrangement space-wise it also meant that there were ~two~ airconditioners working to cool the same space where the beach chalet only had the single unit in the bedroom. Two bathrooms too, much better for four people. The kids liked having their own space, and I liked them having their own space too - gave me a bit of a vacation from them. The space was plenty big enough, and I really liked the wood interiors. The kicker - it cost us an entire 5 more euros a day to have two mini suites as it did to have one beach chalet. Totally worth it, I see us doing this for all future trips.

Our last evening - Wednesday - had clouds rolling in and the wind really picking up. Thursday morning I had planned on a final beach walk but it was gray and raining - and good day to pack and head home. The tropical storm just skirted the island, and I understand that by the time our plane took off the sun and emerged to another beautiful afternoon.

Flying home I wasn't impressed with the new airport. The few eateries all required cash, they need twice as much seating to accommodate the people in line, and the selection could be improved. Better than the old airport but could still use some work. And wasn't too happy about being in the brand new airport and still having to walk across the tarmac and haul our bags up the stairs into the plane - so much for progress. Luckily we had very few carryons for the return trip so it wasn't a hassle, just very odd.

Overall - it was a great trip. Lots of old friends plus meeting new people too. Kids had a good time with their friends, playing in the water, or building sandcastles. Their attention span for doing nothing on the beach all day isn't quite as good as the adults, and they seem to be immune to the whole "Beach Gravity" phenomenon, and so they did go eat lunch at Papagayos with their friends or spend the noon time hours inside watching a movie or playing cards. The discovery of two kittens towards the end of the trip provided hours of entertainment, along with pleas to take them home with us. (Our three dogs would have been less than thrilled.) We had no safety or security issues, no incidents with camera wielding tourists, and no negative interactions at all.

While it was dismaying to see the high prices we knew to expect them. This was our 10th trip to the island and there were no real surprises. We've seen the sights on previous trips, and I'm not one to shop so all of our days were spent on the beach lounging in the sun until it set. We saved all our "dead bread" to feed the fish - asked many times "what kind of fish are those?" and my only honest reply could be "HUNGRY!". I read a stack of books. I worked on my tan. Played with the kids in the water. Chatted with friends. I drank a lot of rum. It was good.

The only negatives - and these are really small things - the accommodations at Club O could use some upgrading. While the Spartan rooms are part of the charm both our locations were plagued with ants. We usually see some in the bathrooms but this trip there were *everywhere* - even on the beds. The housecleaning left something to be desired despite the daily $10 tip left for them - would come back to the room to sandy floors and dishes that needed rewashing. I don't expect Egyptian cotton sheets at Club O but a mattress that isn't 30 years old would be nice (or maybe it just seemed that way) . Waking up sore and miserable is no way to spend a vacation. (thankfully when we moved rooms the new location had a better bed.) The addition of phones is nice if only to coordinate dinner plans with other CO guests. I had emailed Denis the Club O manager before we left on our trip about my concerns regarding safety and the recent crimes in the area and never received a reply from him or anyone at Club O -and while we didn't have any problems I was disappointed that they never even bothered to acknowledge my concerns. The staff I did deal with were all very friendly.

Papagayos is outfitted with a ceiling full of huge fans.... that don't work. If you sat anywhere but the outside benches you were bound to be hot and sweaty. Despite being nude. Not ideal eating conditions. The poor guy behind the bar was constantly wiping his forehead, it was hot back there!

The mosquitoes problem on the island is minimal compared to DC. St Martin doesn't have the dreaded Asian Tiger Mosquitoes so the majority of my bug spray went unused. Gnats seems to bother me more, and I came home with their bites up and down my legs.

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tracyleephoto/sets/72157606749763435/


Question: what happens to items left at Club O? I assume that all food and toiletries get thrown away, but each trip I either bring with or buy on the island things for the kitchen and house - like a decent sharp knife, additional cooking tools, a digital clock - and I leave them there for the next person to use. This was the first trip were we stayed in the same unit so I could see that nothing I had left on my previous visit remained. Do the staff take these items? Do the owners?