We arrive from STT via ferry at West End on a brilliant day – sunny and very hot. Had to endure a painfully slow immigration line (40 minutes). It looked like the gentleman doing the processing was re-writing every form that people had filled out. Luckily, the residents line quickly finished and another (thankfully faster) officer sped up the process.

While hubby headed to Hertz to pick up the car rental, I spent my time drinking in the view of Soper’s Hole. He wasn’t too long but by this time we were hot and thirsty. So we packed up the Suzuki and headed to the Jolly Roger. Two beers later, we decided to order food and the time just melted away. I had to smile when I went to use the facilities and a chicken was running around in the bathtub. Yes, we are in the BVIs now.

We headed to Sugar Mill and get checked in very quickly, get our bags to the room and collapse on the bed for a two-hour nap. Unpack and then head to the pool to revive ourselves. The Sugar Mill is very pretty and I really like our room (with its own little library – bonus). That night, being tired, we have an excellent dinner at the Sugar Mill. The food and service were very good throughout the week. Hubby has his usual cigar on our deck and we listen to the rolling waves. There was a hefty swell all week on that side of the island.

Monday
Wake up slowly and amble down for breakfast at the Sugar Mill. Guests fight for the choicest tables. Well, maybe “fight” isn’t the word but pounce. The Sugar Mill serves up tasty, hearty breakfasts. After breakfast, we make our way to Roadtown to do some errands (banking, shopping etc.). We note two ships are in and the town is busy. Safari taxis everywhere. We go in to hubby’s favourite store – Pussers and even though it’s not even noon, the place is packed with cruise ship passengers. We do some more poking around and hubby is tickled to see a Best of Brit grocery store (being an ex Brit himself, he promptly goes and buys himself some crisps and chocolate. By this time, I am tired and hot and want to get out of Roadtown so we head to Soper’s Hole, to our second favourite store – Pussers. During a lull in cruise ship groups, we grab a painkiller and snack and head out just as the next shift appears. Get some supplies at Big Ben Superette and head back to Sugar Mill in time to make the manager’s cocktail party. Met some other guests, many of whom have been coming to Tortola for over 20 years! Tonight we opt to walk over to Sebastian’s. Busy, busy. So we wait briefly for a table and have a good dinner.

Tuesday:
Our big adventure day. We wake up and head out to catch the 10 am ferry to JVD. We plan to spend the night on Jost and we have called Gertrude to reserve one of her rooms. Arrive in Great Harbour and amble over to Foxy’s. I can’t believe I am drinking a beer a 11 am!! Foxy is there holding court with a table of early drinkers. Hubby is determined to get to Foxy’s Taboo in time for lunch so after our drinks we search for a taxi. Anyway we get to Taboo, just after 12 noon and the place is crowded. We have a long lunch but feel a bit underwhelmed by Taboo. I am sure it’s a nice lunch spot for sailors and it’s certainly remote but it’s “just okay”. Still, we are happy to be there and chill. We head back to White Bay where we check in at Gertrude’s. Hubby decides he wants to walk to Foxy’s for dinner. I say as long as we go while it’s light out. It’s a fresh evening and the walk is pleasant. Foxy’s is jumping, the service is quick and efficient. We enjoy our dinner and the live music and head back around 9:30.

Wednesday
I wake up at 8, get my bathing suit on and head straight for the beach for a dip. What a great way to wake up. We amble over to the Sandcastle and have breakfast. Then we continue our walk down White Bay to “White Bay East”. It’s a lovely day, already hot in the morning but a nice sun/cloud mix. We make it to Ivan’s Stress Free Bar. It’s not even 10:30 am and I am about to drink!! Hubby convinces me that a Painkiller would be okay because it’s made with juice. I agree to that. We walk back and collapse in front of Gertrude’s.

It’s noon and it’s time to head back to Great Harbour. We stumble to Corsairs for a few beers. Corsairs is nice and quiet. Again, I drink in the view of Great Harbour and then we say goodbye to JVD and catch the 2 pm ferry.

We arrive back in West End and I am hot, grubby, tired. Hubby is raring to go. So he drops me back at Sugar Mill and I collapse. He comes back and he is still raring so we take walk to Bomba’s to watch the surfers. Bomba’s is a bust in my opinion (if you pardon the pun). We have a painkiller and watch the surfers. Okay, I have had my visit to Bomba’s and now I don’t have to come back or wonder anymore. It seems more of place for the Spring Break crowd.

Tonight we decide to eat at Coco Plum’s and the food is good and it is very reasonable. I don’t remember the rest of the evening so I think I must have turned in early while hubby has his cigar on the deck. I sleep like a log at Sugar Mill. The roosters don’t bother me. I don’t hear them.

Thursday.
A chill day. We get up and have a late breakfast at Sugar Mill. It’s not busy so we get our choice of table. No fighting with the other guests. (Just joking). We decide to take a drive to Smuggler’s but we change our plan when it starts to rain. We head to the east end to Lambert’s. That corkscrew switchback between Carrot Bay and Cane Garden Bay is slick and hubby can’t make it up the first turn. I shut my eyes tight, lean forward and try not to freak out but he makes it. Cane Garden Bay is busy, so we keep driving. I am determined this time to find Lambert’s. Eventually we do, and the the place is pretty, but the surf is violent. We have a quick beer and then head “next door” to see Josiah’s Beach. We think it’s a nicer place. Even though the surf is strong, it stays shallow, so there are people (even kids) in the water. We have a drink at the Grape Tree bar and then we are on our way.

We then drive to Smugglers for a dip. Smugglers is much busier from the last time we were there. There is now a bar and a couple of vendors renting chairs and selling cold drinks. It’s still a lovely spot. But it’s choppy today, even for Smugglers.

We go back to Sugar Mill and freshen up and to Bananakeet for sunset drinks. Hubby is blown away by the view and by the time we have finished, he has made reservations for dinner the following night. We have a nice dinner at Sugar Mill and then turn in.

Friday
We get up early and head to Roadtown to catch the 9 am ferry to Virgin Gorda. It’s a gorgeous sunny day. We have arranged to rent a car from Mahogany and go the Bath and Turtle on Verlynne’s recommendation for breakfast. Then we start the exploring in earnest. We drive north along the main road, mesmerized by the views. We stop to do the walk to the Gorda Peak lookout. After 20 minutes of an uphill ascent, I am wondering just where is this lookout. The signs pop up every so often to reassure but we begin to lose faith and finally we find the lookout platform. What a view of the North Sound!! I can even see Anegeda. After the hike we drive to Leverick Bay for a drink and then head south. We stop at another look-out point and see South Sound. We take a peak at Little Dix Bay – idyllic. By now I am in love with Virgin Gorda.. We head to the Top of the Baths, where we have lunch and then we do the walk down to the Baths. Hubby goes for a dip but I am uninclined besides, its very rough. Kids are being tossed like corks in the water. Ian is horrified when he sees said kids swimming to their boat. I say, they’re used to it. He’s not buying it.

Before heading back to Spanishtown, we have a quick drink at the Sea Dog and then make it back in time to catch the last ferry to Roadtown.

After stopping to freshen up, we go out and have a nice dinner at Bananakeet.

Saturday:
Another chill day. We skip breakfast and head out to Smugglers before it gets too busy. There is a bit of a swell, just enough for the kids to have fun on their boogie boards. Then we head over to Cane Garden Bay for lunch. We have a great lunch at the Big Banana (I think that's what it was) and then head back to Sugar Mill to start packing.

This evening we go to Brandywine for dinner. Brandywine has clearly taken it up a couple notches with décor, service and food. We have a very good meal. I wish I could have seen it during the day, I am sure the view must be terrific.

Sunday:
After a quick breakfast and check out from Sugar Mill, hubby returns the car to Hertz, I get scooped up by Smith’s Ferry and we head back to St. Thomas. This is the worst part. Clearing customs at the ferry terminal. Taking the taxi to the airport and then clearing customs again. We are stuck in that terminal for 3 hours until our flight with US Airways but everyone is in the same boat.

All in all a great trip. This was our third time to Tortola and it’s still No. 1. We highly recommend the Sugar Mill. For restaurants, Brandywine, Banaqueet, and Coco Plums were great. Next time I get back to the BVI’s, I am heading for Virgin Gorda!!