We didn't go out to eat much but we did have a great meal at Metis in St. Francois. Definitely go to Point des Chateaux. Also, there's a great beach - I think it's called Anse de la Gourde? We stayed at a divey place right there that honestly was perfect. Beautiful views, beach, water, uncrowded, even during high season.

I think you can take ferries from St. Francois - to MG and Desirade. Probably excursion trips, too.

It's so lovely. There was hardly anything we didn't want to explore. Pointe a Pitre was gross looking and I seem to remember Le Moule (sp?) was menacing in some way but you know what they say, "People are strange, when you're a stranger."