I spent about 5 weeks in Gwada about 4 years ago. I honestly don't remember seeing anyone on scooters. Basse Terre is very hilly with winding roads and switchbacks - and confident and experienced (read: CRAZY) drivers. Rent a car. They're not that expensive and you will have great mobility.

Unless things have changed drastically in the last 4 years (doubt it) cabs are not common. Also, I hope you have some French because almost no one speaks English. Gwada caters to the french vacationer almost exclusively. In our 5 weeks there I think we saw maybe 5 Americans/Canadians. It is an absolutely beautiful place. I thought Les Saintes were very pretty but UBER touristy. I highly recommend Marie Galante. Once the ferry crowd disperses it's like you have this entire island to yourself.

St. Anne has a fantastic fruit market - it's known for it. Oddly, it's the only place we found inexpensive local fruit. Otherwise it was like 5 euro for an avocado at the supermarket - which was bizarre since we literally almost got knocked in the head with them falling out of the trees.

The beaches are stunning - go to all of them: if you see one just stop and get out. They have every color sand and I've just never seen any place like it. The jardin botanique is lovely and we took a wonderful tour of a banana plantation somewhere. We hiked the waterfalls (or as close as they allow you) - the ones that drew Columbus to the island in the first place. We also hiked the volcano which everyone was like, "ooh la la, it is fantastique and SO easy". RIGHT. I was almost crippled after the 7 mile turn around and I was not out of shape. But you should do it if you can - bring water and food because there are no services whatsoever.

Drink the rum - it's great. Go to Pointe des Chateaux (sp?) - it's like the end of the earth. Eat grillade - there's an awesome place on the main road just before you get into St. Anne. We didn't get to Desiderade - I hear it's lovely. Go to Morne a l'eau - it's lovely.

Deshaies is a very pretty town - felt very different from St. Anne (where we started). There's a restaurant that has (had?) 2 locations, one in Deshaies and the other in St. Francois - Le Metis? Good food.

The roads are fantastic - we felt like they laid them just for us! No one was rude, we never felt unsafe. Didn't spend any time in Point a Pitre - didn't look appealing to us.

I definitely want to go back someday. Have a wonderful time!