PARADISE REVISITED – ST. MAARTEN
NOVEMBER 7, 2009 – NOVEMBER 14, 2009

[color:"blue"]DAY 1 - 11/07/2009 – Saturday - In Transit and Arrival at Oyster Bay Beach Resort[/color]

Just seated in Row 18 of United’s Washington DC flight to SXM. We usually take Continental direct from Newark. Don’t really like this connection thing, but the price was right. Been up since 1:30am. Hope we can sleep on this 4 hour flight, so we can enjoy St. Maarten tonight … ‘cause I got a feeling … tonight’s gonna be a good, good night!
So to back track a little, every time we go somewhere, my husband knows someone. Going through security at Newark Airport, our inspector is a fellow soccer parent from town – hadn’t seen Frank for years and then we saw him last week and again today – nice to see a smiling face at a security checkpoint. Then it’s on to our departure gate where the agent is a guy who played soccer with my husband… got us moved to 1st class on the first leg of our trip … wonder who else we’ll run into later.

Connecting Washington DC to St. Maarten

We had some time between flights, so we had breakfast in the airport at a little restaurant that served bagels with eggs, etc. – right across from Gate 14C … so we weren’t hungry on the flight. We usually fly Continental, but this United flight was nice .,. a little more leg room in the regular seats, but no pillows or blankets.

Went through SXM immigration quickly after being welcomed to St. Maarten with shots of coconut and vanilla rum at the airport. Off to Thrifty car rental with the shuttle – upgraded to a bigger car – nice and easy. On the way to Sharon’s to pick up our cell, we locate Hilma’s Windsor Castle – gotta return for breakfast or lunch. Also locate Ital’s Freedom Fighter Shack – gotta return here for a vegan lunch.

We arrive at 4:00 at OBBR – no check-in line – request a villa facing Dawn Beach and get it! I think we were lucky because most people were requesting the new section. We are tired. We have apps and guavaberry and mango coladas at Infinity’s happy hour and take a walk to check out the Big Fish menu for tomorrow. We decide to get Island Pizza (next to Mr. Busby’s) to go. Two pizzas with custom toppings ($29.00) and a bottle of Merlot from OBBR’s gift shop ($5.95).

[color:"blue"]Day 2 – 11/08/2009 – Sunday – Grocery Shopping, Dawn Beach, Folkloric Dancing, Big Fish[/color]

We slept really well last night in the comfortable OBBR bed. Steve had fresh brewed coffee waiting for us ... then he walked to Mom & Pop’s for fresh baguettes (no more croissant deliveries). We’re all on the balcony, facing the beach – wow – what a beautiful rainbow, and what a beautiful way to start the day with friends.

We were planning to go grocery shopping at the Grand Mache first thing this morning, but Dawn Beach is calling us from our balcony. We spend an hour in the water, then head over to the island orientation. I win a bottle of champagne and our friend Steve wins a free dinner for two in Grand Case for answering questions correctly.

Then it’s off to buy our weekly groceries, wine and fruit juice to make mimosas for tomorrow’s breakfast with that champagne we won! We made lunch, put away our groceries in record time, and it’s back to Dawn Beach. In lieu of the free guavaberry tasting by the pool, we decide to stay on the beach and do our own taste test. Mr. Busby’s has won the right to say “Who’s your Daddy?” to Infinity (OBBR).

Next, we head out to see some dancing in honor of St. Matin’s Day. There’s a dance troupe visiting from Curacao in the courtyard (thanks Ingrid) – so good – beautiful costumes and smiling faces – from conservative traditional to the rhythmic tumba calypso - add drums and hips. Nestor and Steve were chosen from the audience to dance with the pretty girls – our guys can move! – lots of fun.

And now what we’ve been waiting for – dinner at Big Fish. It’s a short wait at the bar until our table for 4 by the open door looking out at Oyster Pond is ready. The boat docked just outside has Nestor’s initials and the numbers 8-4-6 on it. Hmm – is this a sign ... let’s remember this for roulette.

Red, red wine … good, good friends – St. Maarten warm breezes - cool jazz playing – soft lit atmosphere – Life is Good!

[color:"blue"]What We Ate at Big Fish - $161 + tip (4 people)

APPS[/color]

I had the Beet Salad – beets, cucumbers, pears, onion, bell peppers and feta cheese topped with shisomara greens drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette.

Nestor had Escargot topped with a delicious cheese and sauce.

Diane had Coconut Shrimp served with 4 different toppings.

Steve had Carribean Onion Soup.

It gets a little quiet for a few minutes as we all savor the flavors of our individual appetizers.

[color:"blue"]ENTREES[/color]

Valerie and Steve – Mahi Renee Stuffed with Crabmeat, baked with Chablis and served with lobster sauce.

Nestor – Mahi Rockefeller – Mahi topped with spinach and pernod mixture and topped with Hollandaise sauce and baked.

Diane – Talapia topped with garlic/dill cream sauce. You can choose the fish and sauce you like.

[color:"blue"]DESSERT[/color]
Big Fish is out of the dessert we want tonight, so we decide to go to Beau Beau’s at OBBR.

Beau Beau’s – Tonight Bob Stone is singing at Beau Beau’s – songs from the 70s – beautiful voice. Not many people here tonight, but it takes our waitress 20 minutes to get to our table. Shared a tiramasu – ice cream was ice cream bars you choose yourself from the freezer – just OK.

[color:"blue"]DAY 3 - 11/09/2009 – Monday - Island Tour and Casino[/color]

It’s a little cloudy out this morning, so we decide to postpone our Pinel Island trip until tomorrow and just drive around the island – stopping wherever our mood takes us. Nestor is an excellent driver and plans our excursion.

Our A #1 driver takes us down that bumpy road to Le Galion – we pass by the Tropical Wave Bear Bar, and drive down to where we usually park our car – the water is so beautiful and peaceful – calm. This serenity brings back memories of days spent at this beach in previous years.

On to Orient Beach. We park in the lot behind “Sexy Fruits” and decide to stop in to say hello to Stephanie. The back door is open, so we enter that way, but somehow the store looks different – the merchandise looks different and we discover that we are in a different store which is appropriately named “Adam & Eve” – evidenced by “Eve” in her natural state. OK, so Sexy Fruits is right nextdoor and Stephanie is there! She greets use like old friends. She wasn’t sure if she was going to open the store today because of the weather, so she decides to use this day to clean her silver jewelry. What a beautiful selection she has.


As we leave, we are in search of two things – a ladies room and a pharmacy. The pharmacy in Orient Village is a “Para Pharmacy” – NOT one of those with the cross outside – so they sell cosmetics and non-prescription drugs – so Nestor settles for some vitamin C until we can find something stronger – but no ladies room. We stop at Bikini Beach where we decide to have drinks and snacks. Guavaberry coladas are OK here. Camembert w/ basil sauce for the girls, baked served with strips of toasted bread – Calamari for the boys. I’m so glad we decided to stop here. We are at the table overlooking the beach – nice. ($65 for 4 including tip).

We continue our journey and search for a pharmacy with real medicine for Nestor’s cough. Right before we get to Marigot we see a pharmacy in a shopping center. Diane and I wait in the car, and after much negotiation (and I suspect pleading) Nestor and Steve return with antibiotics.
We drive through Marigot, pass Sandy Ground and reach our destination of Baie Rouge. We are determined to eat at Gus’ – one of the guys in the parking lot leads us down the “sort of” stairs to the left and wants us to eat at Chez Roymond – but we proceed to Gus’ because we saw Anthony Bourdain have lunch there on his old Cook’s Tour show about St. Marteen – it was good, but I think either restaurant would have been fine. The water was really really rough and really really beautiful. As the waves curled and broke, the deep turquoise and white foam sparkled like blue and white diamonds in the sun.

Tummies full, we continue on – we took the stairs on Gus’ side up to the parking lot – much better. Our timing is right to catch the big jets coming in at Sunset Beach Bar (Maho). We arrive at 2:00 and a couple just leaving asked if we’d like their tables – oh yeah – right next to the water – great view of the beach. The arrival times are posted on the surfboard chalk board. We order ribs and drinks. After tasting Guavaberry coladas at several places on the island, my favorite is at Sunset Beach Bar – 5 Stars, and guys rated the ribs the best so far.

Back to OBBR to chill out – love this resort for home base. We relax – Diane & Steve decide to have dinner at Daniel’s by the Sea and Nestor & I take the casino bus trip from the hotel. We stop at Beau Beau’s first – a funny singer sets the party mood for the night. We get the late bus for the casino since the first one was full. The casino this year is Princess in Cole Bay. We like it – because it’s nice and because Nestor wins! Also met a nice couple on the bus (also from NJ) who we talk to non-stop. On the way home, the driver takes us through the French side.

A very good day today and we are tired – a good tired – and we head home to our comfortable villa at OBBR!

[color:"blue"]DAY 4 - 11/10/2009 – Tuesday - Pinel Island (Karibuni), Daniel’s by the Sea[/color]

Finally – Pinel Island – our favorite. We arrive in time for the first ferry. Karibuni is loading their boat with fresh supplies for the day.
Sitting on the lounge, facing the mountains, the calmest, clearest water fills my vision and serenity fills my soul. The early morning quiet before the later boats arrive is so peaceful. This is my very favorite place on earth.
We spend the entire day here. Had lunch next to the water under a palapa at Karibuni. We alternated between the water and the lounge chairs all day. The 3:30 ferry brings us back to Cul de Sac and I think about how much I love this place. It might be until 2011 until we return – Lord willing. Next year (2010), the plans are for Aruba, Uruguay and Playa del Carmen. So I take a loving look back, smile and take a mental photograph to file away for a rainy day.

We are tired from the sun – back to OBBR for a nap. We decide to have dinner at Daniel’s – just a short, short walk from our door. They are paving one of the lots close to reception, so parking is at a premium - nice to be able to leave our car and walk.

[color:"blue"]What we ate at Daniel’s ($190 for 4 including tip)

APPS[/color]

Shrimp/Lobster Cocktail and Snails in oil and garlic

[color:"blue"]DINNERS[/color]

Manicotti, Chicken Milanese with fetticini, Veal Scallopini Marsale, Spicy Shrimp with Fetticini fra Diablo.

[color:"blue"]DESSERTS[/color]

Chocolate Mousse with Grand Mariner and Tartufo (which was just vanilla ice crea and chocolate syrup.

A full day – back to our villa – we need sleep after a day well lived.

[color:"blue"]DAY 5 - 11/11/2009 – Wednesday - Dawn Beach, OBBR Infinity Pool, Le Fregate[/color]

This does not get old. Slept well last night. Steve is our morning person– coffee’s always waiting for us when we wake up – and beach lounges are reserved. Steve makes his usual morning trip to get fresh, warm baguettes from Mom & Pop’s – they get delivered at 8:00 am.

Nestor is our excellent driver – never getting lost – our compass on SXM (and in my life), negotiating twists and turns and the irregular St. Maarten terrain. I think a lot about this on this beautiful island – how my husband always leads me in the right direction.

Ahhhh – life is good. There was a wind/rain storm that woke us up last night – but it’s beautiful this morning. The water does look a little rougher today though.

We’re sitting on the balcony – soft breezes moving the page as I write – soft sounds of the surf meeting the sand. Another beautiful day on St. Maarten has begun.

Dawn Beach and relaxation is our goal today. We spend the morning floating in the swelling water, reading, walking on the beach. As easy lunch in our villa and then a dip in the beautiful OBBR Infinity Pool – our first time in the pool this week. Not sure what we’ll do for dinner – maybe pizza at Mama Pizza – want to make it an early night before our early morning trip to St. Barth’s tomorrow.

After a rest, we decide to have dinner at Mama Pizza. The roads are dark – I’m happy we’re not going far. Mama is closed! We revise our plans and go to Le Fregate .. they have pizza too, but when we see the menu, so much for pizza! [color:"blue"]Dinner for 4 with wine and tip included $210.[/color]

Bottle of French red
Escargot (2 orders)
Camembert with Basil – baked (1 order)
Duck
Chicken Cordon Blue
Steak/Onion – red wine sauce
Veal Scallopini Marsald
Crème Bruelee (1 order)
Profiteroles (1 order)

Eating outside on the covered patio – warm island breeze, soft lights, light drizzling rain, friends – PRICELESS!


Early night tonight.

[color:"blue"]DAY 6 - 11/12/2009 – Thursday - Anguilla, Shoal Bay East, Uncle Ernie’s[/color]

Our sound sleep is interrupted by the blaring alarm clock – is it 7:00am already?? - NO, it’s 3:15am! As much as I try, I toss and turn and cannot fall back asleep, so I start my day early – very early about 4:00am. Shutting off the air conditioning in our living room allows me to enjoy the gentle sound of the water meeting the sand outside our balcony on Dawn Beach – a pot of coffee – it’s so peaceful this morning.

Today’s plan is to visit St. Barth’s. The ferry has been called the “vomit comet”, so I have a very light breakfast while the rest of our crew sleeps. We have two choices.

9:00 – 5:00 boat, open bar, 4x4 jeep/car - $89 each for 1st 2 - $75 for 2nd 2 - if all four share car. Cocos Discount Catalog 544-6029 (Dutch side) by Simpson Bay between Domino/Pineapple Pete’s. Oliver wanted us to drive down and leave a deposit in cash – ½ of total last night – we did not.

OR

Day trip from Aqua Mania Adventures – Pelican Marina – Simpson Bay 544-2640 - $65 per person + $15 tax. No car. They recommend renting a car ($70) or taxi tour ($20 per person). Complimentary refreshments served on board.

So as you can see from the title of Day 6 we did not make it to St. Barth’s – our fault because we didn’t reserve yesterday. We did drive down to the Pelican Complex though. We parked our car and went down to the area where tickets are sold and after being told that the St. Barth’s trip was full, we’re offered a trip to Anguilla, but decide to drive up to Marigot and take the ferry ourselves.

Now our luck turns around. Nestor finds a great parking space a couple of rows back from the terminal. Ferry ticket $15 per person + $10 departure tax, one way, per person. The ferry is waiting for us. A 20 minute ferry ride and we’re at Blowing Point in Anguilla. Our captain, Desmond, just so happens to have a little car rental business on the side, so we rent a car for $35 (including insurance) plus $20 for driver’s license … and we’re off to tour the island.

Our final destination is Shoal Bay East, but we drive to the West to check out the other side of the island first. Cap Juluca is so beautiful, very quiet, very upscale. We walk to the beach where the lounges have lots of room in between and the villas with balconies overlook the water. Blue, their beachfront restaurant is set up for breakfast – very expensive. The hotel lobby is breathtaking.

I’m already happy that we rented a car so that we’re in control of our own schedule. Now it’s on to Mead’s Bay. Lots of new construction here – the Dolphin Swim has been moved off island. We stopped here on an island tour two years ago – last time, we just enjoyed the beach while others swam with the Dolphins. I’m kinda glad they moved off island. I’m not an expert, but the dolphins looked a little confined to me.

Since the new construction, there are not a lot of each access walks. We ask for directions … one … two … three times, and a local points us in the right direction – by the almond tree <smile> -- gotta love it! The entrance unfolds a beautiful alcove of Mead’s Bay – so, calm, so turquoise. To our left we take in the rest of the beach, with the old dolphin swim and new condos in the distance.

It’s time to continue our journey to Shoal Bay East. The original plan was to spend the day at Gwen’s, where we went with our island tour two years ago, but we find Uncle Ernie’s first and after looking at the beach, decide to settle in here instead.

Ray da Man offers us four lounges and two umbrellas for $20 – how can we resist.

[color:"blue"]Lunch at Uncle Ernie’s - $60 for Four[/color]
(2) Rib & Chicken Combos
(1) Ribs
(1) Veggie Burger
(2) Mango Coladas
(2) Beers (maybe more – not sure)

All lunches came with a delicious (and a little bit spicy) coleslaw. My veggie burger was great. Ribs were average – I liked Gwen’s better – and missed Gwen’s pasta salad … but I really like this section of Shoal Bay. Besides Uncle Ernie’s, there are 2 more beach bar/restaurants right there. The water is beautiful today – such a relaxing afternoon. Shoal Bay is the best for walking along the beach.

[color:"blue"]Crime Report
*** I do admit that I am the worrier of the group. After reading on TTOL and TripAdvisor that a poster’s car was hit from behind at night on that road between the Dutch and French sides by the lookout – being set up for a robbery, I think I might have been a pain checking out the side view mirror to make sure there was no one following too closely behind us.
*** So to get back to Shoal Bay East, I remembered reading a post a while ago that on Orient Bay, some local teenagers were dancing nude on a platform in the water, distracting sunbathers on the beach, while their partners in crime ran down the sand stealing beach bags and running off. I became nervous about going in the water and leaving our cameras, passports, etc. on the beach.
As a deterent, one poster suggested using a small bicycle chain to attach beach totes to the heavy lounges, thereby slowing down a perpetrator. I, of course, thought this was a wonderful idea, while my husband just laughed!
So anyway, we’re on the beach in Shoal Bay, when two young teenage locals stop by our lounges, big smiles and say, hell-oooooo to me and Diane – our husbands are in the water – now we want to go into the water also, but we’re nervous about leaving our stuff, especially since we need our passports for our return trip from Anguilla to St. Maarten – and these guys are lurking around.

Not to worry … I brought my bicycle chain, so we chain all the bags together and join our husband in the water, feeling somewhat safer. By the way, NO attempt was made to hijack our belongings.

Upon returning to our beach chairs, I decide to unlock the bags, only to discover that although I had chained and locked our bags together, I forgot to secure them to the heavy frame of the beach chair … thereby creating a convenient handle for any would be robber to get three bags instead of one quite easily … we were hysterical laughing!!![/color]

After a laid-back day in the sun and water, we head back to Blowing Point for the ferry ride home. We catch the last ferry out at 6;15. This is a bigger ferry and a smooth ride back to Marigot. The ferry had a TV with a karate moving playing with subtitles (funny), so the ride seemed to go more quickly.
The Marigot parking lot was well lit, but the streets back to OBBR were not, and although we have taken this route several times in the daytime with no problem, we get lost a few times and it’s really dark; however, our captain, my dear husband, guides us home to Oyster Pond. We are tired, especially Nestor, after this challenging ride home.

We didn’t get to St. Barth’s this time … but you know what they say … when one door closes…. Another one opens. We’ll do it next time, but what a great day we had on Anguilla.

[color:"blue"]DAY 7 - 11/13/2009 – Friday - Dawn Beach, Timeshare Tour, Ital Freedom Fighters Lunch, Pineapple Pete’s[/color]

Last full day on the island. SUN!!! This is the best weather day so far – hot…hot…hot!

After our 9:15 free breakfast in Infinity, we tour the new timeshare units and finally get back on the beach at 11:30 – OBBR dollars (incentive to take tour) in hand. As usual, Steve has reserved our lounges and it’s so refreshing to get into that Dawn Beach water – that soothing turquoise water.

Diane & Steve have lunch at Beau Beau’s (with OBBR dollars), and Nestor & I take a break after an hour for a quick lunch at the Ital Freedom Fighters Shack. I’ve been wanting to go here since I saw Anthony Bourdain’s show on St. Maarten. This place has great vegan food … even my Uruguayan, meat-eating husband was impressed. We are greeted with such peace and love and blessings mon from Ras Bushman! The island breeze from the open-air windows cools us and the hospitality of our hosts warms us. So relaxing – reggae music playing. I try “sorrel” juice for the first time – it’s seasonal and Nestor gets the grapefruit – so smooth … so good.

We enjoy the Ital soup and the “Menu” as it’s called – lentils, buckwheat and a green veggie – maybe spinach. The flavors come alive through spices and textures – just right. Took us about 20 minutes to get here from OBBR – there was traffic on Pondfill Road.

We make a 15 minute stop at Rima’s and we’re back on Dawn Beach in no time. It was a little sad getting out of the water today, knowing that tomorrow we’ll be leaving.

After a stop at the farewell party in the lobby, it’s on to Pineapple Pete’s. Nice live music by guitar playing “Bea”.

[color:"blue"]What we ate at Pineapple Pete’s - $225 for 4 people including tip.
APPS[/color]

Escargots Gratines&#8232;In Garlic Butter, with Parmesan
Crab Stuffed Shrimps&#8232;Large Shrimps stuffed with Crab Meat topped with Garlic White Wine Cream Sauce

[color:"blue"]ENTREES[/color]
Crab Stuffed Grouper &#8232;A Fresh Filet of Grouper stuffed with Delicious Crab Topped with a Garlic White Wine Cream Sauce
LOBSTER THERMIDOR &#8232;Prepared to perfection with Fresh Mushrooms and a Light Cream Sauce, gratin&#8730;©e with Parmesan. &#8232;With Lettuce and Tomatoes
Crab Stuffed Shrimps&#8232;Large Shrimps stuffed with Crab Meat topped with Garlic White Wine Cream Sauce
Beef Short Ribs &#8232;Marinated with Pepper Glaze, Braised for hours to a perfect tenderness
[color:"blue"]DESSERT
[/color]Dark Rum Creme Bruelee&#8232;Topped with caramelized brown sugar
Ice Cream

[color:"blue"]AFTER DINNER DRINKS[/color]
Cognac
Pear Liquor

We all enjoyed our meals and the atmosphere at Pineapple Pete’s … definitely worth another visit next vacation.

[color:"blue"]DAY 8 -11/14/2009 – Saturday–Rima’s, Phone/Car Return, Hilma’s Windor Castle, Homeward Bound[/color]

Coffee on the balcony – time to pack! This week just flew by. Still don’t understand why it takes me so long to pack for going home. I know I promised this before, but next trip I’m going to bring less of everything.
We check out of OBBR at 10:00am – no late check-outs allowed .. flight not scheduled to leave until 4:35pm. We make a quick stop at Rima’s for Diane. The bridge is up so it takes a little long to get to Sharon’s to return our phone. We even get to stop at Hilma’s Windsor Castle – another Anthony Bourdain recommendation. Her fish soup was so tasty. The Johnny Cakes were sold out, but we did get to meet Hilma and her husband Raymond who makes them. What a sweet couple they are. Their trailer is just passed the bridge by RBTT bank and they have been there since 2004 – it was fun sitting at the back of the trailer on the stools and enjoying the food – another place we’ll return to next time … earlier so we can taste their Johnny Cakes.
We return our rental car to Thrifty - no problems – the van drops us off right at the airport door. We have a lot of time to spend at the airport – get something to eat, drink and read … it’s a long wait!

Will post 2009 pictures later this week.

Already dreaming about our next trip!