Susan and I stayed at the Hawksbill Beach Resort in Antigua, 16-23 February 2002.<br><br>Flights<br>We flew out of Toronto on Air Canada’s non-stop 767 to Antigua, having purchased tickets for US$312 per person in October. Flights both ways were 40 minutes late, but with no connections this was really no problem (for us). Even though they are stingy with frequent flier miles (reduced miles for reduced fare customers) Air Canada is a comfortable airline, and I had to smile when our pilot introduced himself with the uber-Canadian name of Capt. Gord Kent. We had driven up to Toronto the day before, staying at the Airport Sheraton ($40 from priceline.com). Nearby parking was US$35 for eight days, with a continuous shuttle bus. Security at Toronto was tight (I had to prove my camera worked) but efficient, and in some ways more humane than in American airports. Security at Antigua should not be called security: the airport people were sleepwalking through all of it, and to take the ferry to Montserrat we all had to go into a separate room at the harbor master’s and walk through a metal detector machine that wasn’t even plugged in.<br><br>Hawksbill<br>Our reason for selecting Hawksbill was their clothing optional beach. We loved this beach, but we also liked the resort and will stay there again. The atmosphere was quite British, with baked beans for breakfast (among many other options) and afternoon tea. Men are required to wear long pants and collared shirts to dinner. Women have no specific dress code, but are requested to be “casually elegant” (and some managed to be so in shorts and t-shirts!). There are two seating areas for the beach bar, about twenty feet apart, one of which permits bathing suits and one of which requires further covering up.<br>    Our room was one of the garden view studios, Hawksbill’s least expensive accommodation but in many ways the most private. Our chalet-like studio was one of six in a building, and was furnished with two twin beds pushed together, desk, dresser, 2 night stands, closet, a mini refrigerator, and a hair dryer. No bathtub, but a very pleasant garden-view shower. Safe rental was $15 extra for the week. There is no TV, radio, or air conditioning. The large ceiling fan worked extremely well, and we only turned it on during the day. Some rooms have phones. Ours did not, so we made phone calls by presenting our desired number on a slip of paper to the people at the front desk, proceeding to a semi-private phone booth, and waiting for a connection to be made. 24-hour internet access is available in the Activities Room @ U.S. 20c per minute.<br>    We could never hear our neighbors through the walls, but could occasionally hear things through the screens (which were equipped with privacy louvers). One morning we thought the neighbors were making some very strange noises, until we left for the beach and discovered a large family of pigs rooting around in the plantings around our building.<br>    Hawksbill has 37 acres, all of it very closely manicured. The tropical landscaping is never allowed to become exuberant, but still looks very lush.<br>    At midweek in peak season, Hawksbill was exactly 50% full, with 55 of its 110 units occupied: 29 by Britons, 15 by Americans, and the rest Canadians, Germans, and Swiss. Most of the Europeans were on the Modified American Plan (breakfast and dinner included); the few who were All-Inclusive could be easily identified by their wristbands. We opted for breakfast only, and this worked very well for us. <br>    Maid service was daily and no problem. Others have complained about not being able to get fresh towels, but we ended up with more towels than we started with. So if you were there during the same week, and lost towels, sorry! <br>    At checkout we were presented with a bill calculated at Hawksbill’s full rack rate. Fortunately, we had brought along a copy of an email confirming our booking at their special internet rate, and the bill was quickly reduced by more than 60%. Next time we will book Hawksbill through cheapcaribbean.com or skyauction.com<br><br>Beaches<br>Hawksbill has four beaches. The first is a combination, beginning at the lawn that Hawksbill provides for community use, and ending in front of the luxury beachfront suites. The second beach is the center of social life at the resort, with the beach bar and swimming pool, ping-pong, and water sports. Hawksbill does not allow jet skis, and we didn’t see anyone windsurfing. For those of us who like a quiet day at the beach and in the water, this was great. The third beach is quite small, but looked good for children (of which there were a surprising number, accompanied by at least one nanny). The fourth beach is the clothing optional one, and this is reached by a short walk up a hill and through a gate, and then down a path.<br>    Trip reports on other sites led us to believe that the clothing optional beach might be rather empty. In fact, during our week at Hawksbill, more people used this beach than all of the others put together. Still, because of its size it was never crowded. There were 40 chaise lounges on the fourth beach, and on at least two days all were taken, or at least spoken for. We quickly noticed that several of the British guests left their beach towels in plastic bags on their chairs whenever they left the beach, including when they left the beach for the night, essentially reserving a preferred location (and a preferred chair) for the length of their stay. And it was a point to get a good chair—this beach obviously had all of the reject chairs that had ended their useful life at the other beaches. Beyond a trash can, and the guard’s structure (which could be used for shelter in a storm) there were no facilities on this beach.<br>    Most people congregated at the beginning of the beach. Others sought privacy in the shelter of sea grapes further down. And those who walked the quarter mile to the end of the beach were almost always alone. Due to rocks, the end of the beach was not suitable for swimming, but it was a place to see some magnificent, crashing surf, and observe things such as crabs and sea slugs in action.<br>    All beaches in Antigua are open to the public. Hawksbill encourages the public to use the designated portion of their first beach, and to not use the other beaches. They offer beach vendors a place to sell their wares each morning, in exchange for not walking the beaches. This worked. Taxis are discouraged from bringing day guests, and prohibited from picking them up, and we talked to one couple off a cruise ship who had to try three taxis before they found one willing to bring them to Hawksbill (and then they still had to walk all the way from the first beach, and to get back to their ship walk over a mile to the bus stop). A security guard on the beach will prevent anyone who doesn’t have a navy blue Hawksbill beach towel from using the chaises.<br>    If there were any voyeurs, they were well offshore on the round-the-island catamarans or, more likely, the Sandals motorboat. So far as we could tell, almost everyone on the fourth beach was there because they were a naturist, or their partner was a naturist. Other guests occasionally showed up, especially at sunset. Even though the beach is not sign-posted as clothing optional, and one could conceivably arrive at Hawksbill without knowing anything about it, everyone acted like a grownup.<br>    We saw other beaches from a distance but did not visit them. Hawksbill had everything we wanted.<br><br>Rental Car<br>We took a taxi from the airport on Saturday, as a sort of familiarization exercise, and had arranged through Hawksbill to rent a car from Hyatt Car Rental. This was supposed to be delivered at 9 on Sunday morning. When it hadn’t arrived by 9:40, Terry phoned from the front desk only to find out that yes, Hyatt had our reservation, but, no, they didn’t have any cars. They expected some to be returned later that day, but couldn’t say when. Terry suggested Dollar Rent-a-Car. Based on Dollar’s reputation here at home, for making the same dent pay out multiple times, I wasn’t enthusiastic about this. But it was how I was going to get a car that morning, and when they agreed to match Hyatt’s price, I said OK. The paperwork was tedious, and I documented every cosmetic blemish with photographs. In an hour it was over, and the Nissan Sentra never gave us any problem. Returning it at the airport the next Saturday was quick and hassle-free. The car came with half a tank of gas, and we never used it all, despite driving all over the island.<br>    Driving in Antigua is on the left. This was easier for me than the steering wheel being on the right, and every time I wanted to use my turn signal I activated the windshield wipers instead. Apart from the stretch of road leading to Alberto’s restaurant in Willoughby Bay, the roads were good, simply narrow, unlined, and not well sign-posted. Almost all of the roads in St. John’s are one-way, and you will do much better if you have a map indicating which are which. Biggest problem was intersections with no stop sign for anyone. The stop sign is supposed to be painted on the road, but often wasn’t. Don’t assume that major roads have right of way—sometimes a main street stops for an alley.<br><br>Around Antigua<br>We did not come close to seeing all of Antigua, but we saw and enjoyed downtown St. John’s, English Harbor, and Shirley Heights.<br>    In St. John’s, the cathedral of St. John the Divine is both beautiful and surreal, dominated on one side by a dilapidated 18th century graveyard and statues that were stolen off of a French ship in the Napoleonic Wars. The stone exterior is in need of repair, but the wood interior shell is beautifully preserved. Heritage Quay caters to cruise ships, and is like a Caribbean verison of an outlet mall. Redcliffe Quay is nearby, and has a few more local operations. Walk the short distance up any street into town and you will find all kinds of interesting businesses. The marketplace at the southern edge of town is a treat, with an incredible variety of fruits, vegetables, juices, and crafts. And interesting people. <br>    There were easy-going beggars in St. John’s, and also men selling “tickets” which we took to be part of some kind of lottery or numbers scheme. I bought a newspaper from one man who looked kind of down on his luck. By the time I realized that it was a newspaper from last August, he was gone. But it was interesting to read a pre-September 11th article predicting a tourism boom, and when we saw the same man a little later, eating a bowl of rice at a sidewalk dinette, I didn’t miss my 60 cents at all.<br>    English Harbor is magnificent, and in some ways like a smaller, nautical version of Colonial Williamsburg. Shirley Heights gives a great view of it all, with still more historical ruins.<br><br>Montserrat<br>A day trip to Montserrat was a highlight of our trip. We arranged this through burkeb@candw.ag. Jennifer Burke is a Montserratian who has been unable to return to her home since the 1997 eruption of the Soufriere Hills volcano. She arranged a great tour for us, led on Montserrat by Thomas Lee. Thomas was the last taxi driver to take evacuees out of the Montserrat airport on the day that 19 people died, and has many a tale to tell. Riding around the island with four other people, Thomas would stop whenever any of us wanted a picture, or had a question. Tours cost $140 per person + $20 Antigua departure tax. You travel on the Opale Express, a ferry that will get you to Montserrat in one hour. The ferry leaves at 6 each morning, except on Tuesday when it leaves at 9 and the tour is discounted $20. Our visit was on an especially clear day, and we could see house-size boulders being ejected from the volcano. We also received a lecture about volcanoes from Dr Peter Dunkley, the director of the Montserrat Volcano Observatory, saw the devastation outside of the former capital of Plymouth (houses filed with ash, frozen in time, dinners on the table and clothes in the closets), and witnessed the ways in which Montserrat is growing and prospering in the northern third of the island. It would be hard to imagine a better, more fascinating day trip. Hawksbill uses a different tour company for its tours to Montserrat, and we felt kind of like rebels for going with Jenny (whom they would not let into the grounds to pick us up). Whatever company you choose, make sure that you will be in a minivan with a knowledgeable driver and a small number of people, and not in a big bus with 30 other tourists and someone talking at you through a microphone.<br><br>Dining<br>At $12 per person, the breakfast option at Hawksbill was a good choice, and got us off to a great start each day. The omelettes cooked over an open fire by Joyce were especially good, and there was literally something for everyone. And for the 20-somethings who brought their backpacks to breakfast, there were plenty of rolls, muffins, and fruits to go.<br>    Hawksbill could possibly be a bargain for lunch if you got the special sandwich and the special drink. But we didn’t want to play that game, so stocked our small refrigerator with snacks (first from Bryson’s IGA across from the post office in St. John’s, and then from Food City north of town). If you shop at Bryson’s, be sure to check the sell-by date on anything perishable. Food City is so much better, but note that there is no “Food City” sign anywhere on or around it. It is the large light green corrugated building just west of the roundabout on Dickenson Bay Road.<br>    We ate dinner at Hawksbill our first night. There was nothing wrong with the food, except that it was not worth $80 to anyone who had a rental car. (Taxi fares are quite expensive.) Service was slow (not a problem at the buffet breakfast). The entertainment was provided by a steel drum band. They looked completely bored playing things like “Killing Me Softly” during dinner, but later, after the dancing got going, were able to do more of their own thing. Entertainment lasted until 10, and while the bar was theoretically open until midnight, almost everyone had disappeared by 11.<br>    On the northern part of the island, it was tough finding anyplace outside of a resort (or Kentucky Fried Chicken) open for Sunday dinner. Finally we ended up at the Yuan Loon Chinese restaurant on Fort Rd. This turned out to be a fine choice, with two excellent dinners (chicken curry and vegetable lo mein) and drinks for US$12. After serving our food, the proprietor’s charming daughter asked, “You Americans, no?” When we nodded, she went and got us some ketchup. We don’t put ketchup on our Chinese food, even at home in Ohio, but we appreciated the gesture.<br>    We have read many reports of flies, mosquitoes, sand fleas, spiders, and other pests in Antigua. The only problem we had in our week was when I walked across street from Yuan Loon to take a picture, and stepped into an ant hill. My fault. Antigua was essentially pest-free for us.<br>    Monday night we ate at The Home restaurant in Gambles Terrace north of St. John’s. This is the boyhood home of chef Carl Thomas, who runs the restaurant with his German wife Rita. Carl Thomas is enthusiastic about fresh ingredients, and on the night we were there the number of specials exceeded the number of selections on his regular menu. In many ways this restaurant reminded us of Le Piccolo Café on St Martin (although the portions were definitely not appetizer sized). Susan had fish cakes and then blackened tuna, and I enjoyed an incredible green gumbo soup, and a Caribbean vegetable plate that Mr Thomas had prepared especially for me, the vegetarian. Our only disappointment was our shared dessert, a chocolate/coconut cobbler that seemed very heavy and not entirely fresh. We were later told that Antigua’s prime minister, Lester Bird, spends a lot of time at The Home. Even though we saw his large picture at the airport, we have no idea if he was there that night. But plenty of people were. This was the only restaurant we visited where customers had to wait for a table, some for almost an hour. And this was on a Monday.<br>    Tuesday, on Montserrat, we had an excellent Creole lunch at Tina’s. I have come to expect, and enjoy, the vegetable plate that most Caribbean restaurants will prepare for a vegetarian. Tina’s added macaroni and cheese. I would never have thought of ordering this, but it turned out to be a treat.<br>    Back in Antigua that night, we didn’t want to do anything complicated for dinner. So we stopped in at Roti King on St Mary’s Street in downtown St. John’s. The rotis (vegetable for me and chicken for Susan) were good and filling, and the homemade fruit juices were also great. And we kind of enjoyed the double takes from some of the locals who entered the restaurant while we tourists were enjoying our meal. <br>    Wednesday we lunched at Catherine’s Café on the slipway at English Harbor (fun to get to by water taxi from English Harbor, but you can also drive around). From many intriguing and creative choices, Susan picked the paté platter and I enjoyed a wonderful tomatoes provencale. Everything was great until our ice cream and sorbet desserts arrived partially melted, and then we couldn’t get a check for more than 45 minutes. People at the next table said that the King of Norway had arrived. Maybe so, but we were still there too! We ended up spending two and a half hours at Catherine’s, which was too long for lunch in a place that had so many interesting things to see and do. <br>    Wednesday night we ate at the Commissioner Grill in Redcliffe Quay. Even though we each enjoy different things to eat, Susan and I almost always agree about restaurants. Here, we didn’t. She had her favorite meal of this trip (fettuccini in a light tomato cream sauce with lobster, shrimp, conch, and fish) and I had my worst (a dried out vegetable/rice plate). Next time, I’ll order the fettuccini without the seafood. Note to penny pinchers: when the Commissioner Grill asks if you would like bread with your dinner, they are not offering you free bread.<br>    Thursday night we drove across the island to Alberto’s in Willoughby Bay. Vanessa, Alberto’s English wife and kitchen partner, was surprised that we had driven ourselves all the way from Hawksbill, and even more surprised when we told her we had picked up hitchhikers on the way (Hawksbill security guards whom we passed about a mile outside of the resort, and took into St. John’s. We’d have been happy to take them home, but I don’t think they wanted us to see their homes. Many of the 40,000 residents of St. John’s live in shanty towns.) I had my best meal at Alberto’s (breadfruit sauteed in garlic and butter, and then a wonderful homemade penne) and Susan had her second-best (calamari salad, and then dolphin—but not Flipper, Alberto assured her). We also had our best desserts here: a perfect chocolate mousse, and an equally perfect passionfruit sorbet. It was difficult to choose a sorbet from all of the inventive choices offered. But as much as anything else at Alberto’s, we enjoyed our conversation with Daryl the bartender. We talked about our time on the island and on other islands, baseball vs. cricket, politics, and many other things. I would not be a bit surprised to return to Antigua in ten years and find that the happening place to eat and have a great conversation is called Daryl’s. Alberto’s was our most expensive meal yet in the Caribbean, but completely worth it. Food, atmosphere, and hospitality were all tops. We are not wine people, but the wine list featured wines from many nations in the $20-25 range (as well as much more expensive vintages).<br>    Friday we dined at Chutney’s on Fort Road. This is advertised as the restaurant with two menus (Indian and seafood) and two chefs (and so for the two hours we were there, there was a diner-to-chef ratio of 3-1). We had fun mixing and matching from the menus, and everything was very good. Throughout this restaurant and in the gallery next door you will find the paintings of Lydia Llewellyn, daughter of the proprietor. I was convinced that I was seated under a painting of a blue tiger, but Mr Llewellyn assured me that his daughter painted only fish and women. These paintings are colorful and striking, and when I was told that Robin Leach had bought one I wasn’t a bit surprised. Other than Roti King, Chutney’s was the only restaurant that did not add a 10% service charge. We tipped 15% here and at Roti King, and everywhere else (except for Catherine’s Café) we left 5% in cash on the table.<br> <br>Antigua<br>We never felt unsafe in Antigua, and left feeling we had a lot more to do. Including doing a lot more of nothing on Hawksbill’s beach. And so we are going back in May. The best word I can find to describe the Antiguan people is “genuine.” Whenever we got lost, and we did get lost, at first, whomever we asked for help would go out of their way to give comprehensive directions. Our elderly waiter at Commissioner Grill was interested in why we came to Antigua, and where we stayed, and what we wanted to do. He was convinced that all-inclusive places such as Sandals were killing his restaurant. And since it was 9 at night in what is usually the peak week of the year, and we were the only ones there, he may have had a point. At Alberto’s, Daryl was surprised that we had been to Roti King. I guess there is not usually too much of an overlap between Alberto’s customers and Roti King’s. But there should be—it’s the best way to see two excellent sides of Antigua.<br><br><br>ADDING SOME MISCELLANEOUS COMMENTS FROM PETER HERE, IN RESPONSE TO QUESTIONS FROM MEMBERS.<br><br>You should have a great ocean view from a Club Room. There are two sets of these, one along the first beach (which would put you close to breakfast but as far as possible away from the c/o beach) and another set perched on the rocks between the second and third beaches (and these are the accomodations closest to the c/o beach).<br><br>There are five permanent thatched umbrella-like structures on the c/o beach (and these were the primary focus of those guests who perpetually reserved their beach locations during our stay). No problem at all finding other shade--there are plenty of palm trees and sea grapes.<br><br>If you make Montserrat arrangements through Hawksbill you will not get Jenny's Tours and may end up as part of a large, impersonal group. Jenny has a small office at Heritage Quay but it is easiest to reach her by email (link in my report above) or phone, 268.461.9361. Tell her Peter from Hawksbill sent you! <br><br>The boat ride was smooth both ways for us. We were told it can get a little rough on the return trip, depending on wind. The Opale Express is a large, very comfortable boat. Jenny will give you fruit juices for the ride over, and your tour guide wll have plenty of ice cold bottled water aboard his van. Your lunch on Montserrat includes a beer or mixed drink, if you wish.<br>I'm sure you'll have a super time at Hawksbill and on Antigua. And the day trip to Montserrat is something we will always remember<br><br>Swimming was great at Hawksbill. Rocks appeared and disappeared along the shoreline at the clothing optional beach, but the entire first half of this beach was fine for swimming so long as you remembered where to get in and out. There was a rather steep drop off a few feet out which might make this beach less than perfect for children or short people.<br>At the beginning of the rocky area there were also, depending on the time of day, numerous tidal pools with whirlpool-like effects that were very relaxing and fun.<br>We shook our heads when a red flag was posted at the beach, because the water appeared far calmer than the Atlantic we are used to in the Eastern U.S. However, the red flag was justified because of the softball-sized rocks being propelled by the surf on that day.<br><br>We didn't get inside the casino (King's Casino at Heritage Quay) but from the outside it did not compare to St Maarten's, despite the large, Gumby-like figure looking out over the water, intending to attract cruise ship people. There were also several slot machine places downtown, and a mini-casino at the airport departure lounge. I didn't pay too much attention to this until a lady came running out, excited that she had just won $200. No one seemed impressed until she added "American".<br><br>