Williamsburg, VA
Trip Report
Sunday, October 3—Sunday, October 10

Sunday, October 3:
Very cloudy with rain in the afternoon

We left home at about 9:40. It was very cloudy for most of our trip. After a late lunch, it started to rain. We had rain off and on until we arrived in Williamsburg. The trip was a total of 287.5 miles and took us 8 hours including an hour for lunch. We avoid both Route I95 and Route I64 so it takes us a little longer to get places.

It stopped raining long enough for us to check into Williamsburg Plantation Resort and unload our car. Check-in was fast and efficient.

We ordered manicotti from a restaurant that delivers to Williamsburg Plantation. We could have shared an order

We were both very tired so headed for bed early around 10 PM. Alarm clocks were set for 7:30

Monday, October 4, 2010:
Cloudy and very cool

We were both up by 7:30 with no problem. I’d brought cinnamon buns with us for breakfast. After breakfast, we headed to a nearby Food Lion. However, because we made a wrong turn coming out of the resort we ended up going the long way. Thank goodness for our GPS.

We also got a little turned around on the way back and were looking for the resort on the wrong side of the road so we had to turn around and retrace our route.

After lunch in our unit, we were going to go to Jamestown. We decided to do that another day because we thought that we wouldn’t have enough time, and it was cold and windy.

We walked to the clubhouse and purchased our passes for Historic Williamsburg for Tuesday, and Wednesday. We were very surprised to find that only cash or travelers checks were accepted. It turns out that you receive a voucher that you must take to the Visitors Center on the days that you have purchased to get the actual pass. We bought a One Day Plus Pass which gives you 2 consecutive days and access to all historical buildings including the tour of the Governor’s Palace. The passes for the 2 of us were $80. Had we bought them at the Visitors Center the total would have been $92.

We did go to the Visitors Center to pick up our tickets for the concerts that we purchased before leaving home.

After lunch, we went to Market Square to find the Kimball Theater because we had tickets for a show there at 10:30 Tuesday morning. After that we browsed through a few shops, looked at some restaurant menus, then headed back to the unit.

We had our leftovers from Sunday night for dinner.

Tuesday, October 5:
Sunny and cool

This was a really busy day. We drove to Market Square. There are quite few short term free parking lots all with a one hour time limit. We knew we would be more than an hour so opted for the paid lot.

We attended a program at the Kimball Theater called “Fiddle Works” given by Dean Shostak. Tickets were $7. This is one set of tickets that we purchased before leaving home. Because the Kimball Theater is actually part of William and Mary College, you can attend without buying the passes for Historic Williamsburg,

He came out on stage ahead of the time for the program and chatted with the very small audience. It was a really interesting program with much more than fiddle music. He talked about and played a pocket fiddle (an example of something Thomas Jefferson took with him when he traveled), a cigar box fiddle, a hurdy gurdy (the original type, not the kind played by “organ grinders)”, green and purple violins he’d bought on e-bay, and dulcimer type instruments. He is very personable and has a great connection with his audience. The program was both informative and fun.

After the program, we went back to the parking lot and found the exit only to find out that there was no attendant. The only way to pay was with a credit card. Neither of us saw any signs before we got into the lot indicating that this was the case.

We drove to the Visitors Center to leave our car and take the free shuttle service offered from the Visitors Center to a number of stops around the outer boundary of historic Williamsburg. For the rest of our trips to Historic Williamsburg, we parked at the Visitors Center and made use of the shuttle.

Because of time constraints, we had lunch in the café at the Visitors Center. We both opted for the Virginia barbeque sandwiches with cole slaw. The café is pretty basic with not much of a selection, but the food was decent.

We took the shuttle to the Museum Stop. Museum admissions and the programs there are included in your Williamsburg pass. The Rockefeller Museum and the DeWitt Wallace museums are in the same building.

The entrance to the museums is through the Public Hospital which was a 18th Century mental hospital. The building looks very deceiving when you walk up to it because it simply looks too small to be a one museum, much less two.

An elevator goes down one level for the Dewitt Wallace Museum. There is a different set of elevators for the Rockefeller Museum. We had a little extra time before the program so spent a little time looking at the DeWitt Wallace displays.

We attended an American Music program in the Henniger Auditorium at the Dewitt Wallace Museum. It was supposed to be Scottish fiddle. It was more talk than fiddle. There is a different program everyday in the American Music series.

We got on the shuttle and got off at the Governor’s Palace stop. Because of road work, etc. we were not sure if we had gotten off at the wrong stop or not. While we were debating that I spotted a fascinating tree. It is very knarled. The center of the trunk is missing, but it has 2 sides. While I was taking pictures, another group came up and offered to take our picture in the tree. We then took a picture of that group in the tree. Three people were able to fit in the opening. They come to Williamsburg every year and were able to point us to the palace. As it turned out, we weren’t far away at all.

We took a tour of the palace and then walked around in the gardens. The palace rooms were much smaller than I remembered them. The maze that I remembered as huge was trimmed way down. In the kitchen they were making chocolate which was quite a process. The tempering was being done with a rolling pin.

After a quick dinner in our unit, we went back to the Visitors Center and took the shuttle to the palace stop. We had purchased tickets for a concert in the palace. The tickets were $12, and a Historic Williamsburg pass was also required. Again, we were glad that we had purchased the tickets ahead of time.

The atmosphere was very authentic. The walkway was lined with lighted coach lanterns. Chairs were set up in the ballroom (very small compared to European ball rooms). The chairs were arranged in a very long row along one side of the ballroom and on either side of the doors to the dining room.

All lighting was candle light including the musicians music stands. The music was played on period instruments. The 1740 Bureau organ, which is hand pumped, is one of only 4 known to still exist. One of the violas used in the concert was made in the 1500’s. This concert was the first time in nine years that some of the instruments from the vault were played in concert. The concert was really a treat and the highlight of our day.

We were a little concerned about finding our way back to the shuttle stop after the concert. There was no need to worry, because it looked like everyone that was at the concert was headed to the shuttle. The shuttle was standing room only.

Wednesday, October 6:
Sunny and Cool

Our first stop of the day was the Raleigh Tavern to see “A Dancer at Ease”. This is one of the many programs offered that are not extra cost. There are only 37 seats available and people were being turned away. We knew to arrive early and were there by 10:00 for a 10:30 program.

Chairs were set up along the sides of the room so that everyone had a good seat. The dances were dances that would have been performed in a theater between acts; although some of them were also dances done socially. Some of the costumes were exquisite. Those of a sailor, etc. were also very well done. There was informative narration before each dance. Dancers where accompanied by fiddle only. The player happened to be the viola player from the orchestra that we saw at the palace on Tuesday. What I noticed was that a great many of the dance steps became part of classical ballet—even the names remained the same.

I chatted with the viola player for a few minutes to tell her how much we enjoyed the concert the previous evening. I remarked that it was amazing that a viola made in the 1500’s could still be played. She told me that it did have a modern neck. She went on to say that they are not allowed to practice on the instruments from the vault used in the concert. I commented on how difficult the transition from modern instruments to period instruments would be. She said that they all play period instruments so that the transition isn’t that difficult. I also mentioned that we’d been to a palace concert in Vienna the year before and that the chairs were so uncomfortable everyone was looking forward to the end of the concert. She wanted to know if they stacked up to the orchestra in Vienna. I told her that they most certainly did. She smiled and said that she would pass that on to her colleagues.

After the dance program, we walked down Duke of Gloucester Street and were going to go to the Apothecary; however, it along with quite a few other things is closed on Wednesdays.

We continued down Duke of Gloucester Street to Charlton’s Coffee House. It is the most recent restoration in Historic Williamsburg and has only been open a year. We had to wait for another group to finish before we could go in.

That resulted in an interesting conversation about the costuming with the docent on the front porch. Each fulltime docent has 6 different costumes that are made in Williamsburg’s costume department. The cleaning, laundering etc. is taken care of at the costume department with the exceptions of aprons and one other minor piece of clothing. If anyone has something that they would like to have made to wear, it must be approved by the costume department.

Once we went into the coffee house, it became one of the most interesting stops we made. The docent was superb. She gave a very in-character account of the social workings of the coffee house and the men only social life of the upper echelon.

At the end of tour, we were seated at tables and offered a sample of coffee, or tea, or chocolate. We were warned ahead the chocolate was very thick. It also had spices in it including nutmeg and a touch of cayenne pepper. We opted to try the chocolate and found it absolutely delicious just the way it was served. Both cream and sugar were on the table if anyone found the chocolate too thick. While we were having our beverage sample, we were treated to an in-character dialog from a well known lawyer (neither of us can remember who), sometimes it is George Washington or Thomas Jefferson who shows up at the coffee house.

We caught the shuttle to Market Square for lunch because we were attending the Dean Shostak Crystal Concert at the Kimball Theater at 1:30.

Our original plan was to eat at the Cheese Shop because all we wanted was a sandwich since we were also going out for dinner. However, that meant standing in a long line with no table service. Instead we walked across the street to The Trellis Restaurant and had a very nice lunch.

Once again we were treated to a fascinating concert and commentary on glass instruments. There was even one glass sculpture with glass rods that the audience could play with. One of the instruments was the Armonica that was invented by Benjamin Franklin. The sound was amazing. There were pre-tuned glasses in a wooden case that he actually had taken on Antiques Road Show. It was valued at a much higher price than his purchase. The next thing he played were the glass hand bells he had made for him. He played a glass violin that was made for him in Japan. He is not allowed to ever sell it or tell anyone how much he paid for it. Another instrument that he had is called a Baschet for the 2 French brothers that made it for him. They also made the small glass sculpture that the audience could try. Not only is Dean Shostak a very talented musician, but a very personable one who relates very well to his audience.

After the concert, we walked back down Duke of Gloucester Street to Tarpley’s Store where we bought some of the chocolate that we had enjoyed at Charlton’s Coffee House. We then took the shuttle back to Visitors Center and went back to our unit to rest before heading out for dinner.

We had planned to have dinner at the Kings Arms Tavern; however, it is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Instead we went to Christiana Campbell’s Tavern

There is a shuttle stop right across the street from the tavern. This tavern specializes in seafood. We had a delicious and very large dinner. There was also colonial style music and a political character that entertained.

Thursday, October 7
Sunny and very warm

Today was Jamestown day. Before we went to Jamestown, we wanted to find the restaurant in New Town in daylight were we had our dinner reservations. It is a good thing we did.

After finally finding the restaurant, we went to Jamestown Settlement. We did not spend much time in the museum, but opted for the reconstructions outside. The first stop was a model of a Powhatan Village. As we walked toward the model of the Jamestown Fort we encountered several re-enactors. We went through the buildings in the fort, and happened on an interesting question/answer session on weapons. The museum is part of the Virginia Park Service.
We wandered back to the museum and had a bite of lunch before heading to Historic Jamestown. Once again, Paul’s Golden Pass came in handy since this site is a national park. We opted to take the ranger led tour. It was interesting, but the ranger; although very knowledgeable, was way over dramatic. The tour was supposed to be 40 to 45 minutes. It was well over an hour.

Somehow we made a wrong turn coming out of the parking lot and ended up on the Colonial Parkway (we think) which we didn’t want to take. We had to go back to Jamestown Settlement to get ourselves going in the right direction.

We just had time for a little rest and a change of clothes before heading for our dinner reservation at Opus 9 Steakhouse in New Town. What an experience!

Our friends, who were in Williamsburg in September, recommended this restaurant and have been there many times.

There was a nice selection of main courses including seafood, steaks and poultry. Along with the main course you are offered a choice of potatoes prepared in several different ways, or a baked sweet potato, or steamed fresh vegetables. At first glance, the menu gives you the impression of too much food. We did not find that to be the case.

Our friends gave us a coupon for free shrimp cocktails for up to 4 people so our dinner had a good start.

Paul’s main course was problem free.

Unfortunately, it was not so with my dinner. When our steaks arrived, we were asked to cut right into the center to make sure they were cooked to our liking. Our waitress had a small flashlight that she used so we could see them. No problem there.

After about 5 bites of my steak I had encountered nothing but gristle. When the waitress came back to check if everything was okay. I shook my head no, and told her that the steak was nothing but gristle. Entrees here are way too expensive not to speak up.

She was very apologetic and told me that she would get another steak for me, but it might take a few minutes. She also offered to get something else for me if I didn’t want a steak. I told her that another steak was fine. We were not in a hurry.

A few minutes later the manager came out and apologized. He said they were working on my steak and that it should be out in a few minutes. He also said that they would send out another sweet potato. I declined that offer. He also asked if I wanted my steak prepared the same way. I told him yes.

My original order was for Steak Diane. What I got the second time around was Steak au Poivre. I’d debated between those 2 anyway so decide to just eat my steak and keep quiet.

We both ordered ice cream for dessert, and I ordered a decaf espresso. The waitress put a spoon at my place and a fork at Paul’s place. When she came back he asked why he had a fork when he’d ordered ice cream. She admitted that she had gotten us confused us with another table and thought she’d better check to make sure that they were not getting chocolate ice cream.

A few minutes later, she came back and told me that she had some bad news for me. Once again the espresso machine was broken. She offered to make me an extra strong French press coffee. I declined.

We discovered during our conversations with the waitress that we were not the only ones that had a hard time finding this restaurant. It is on Main Street in New Town. Main Street is actually a short cul de sac street. She said the phone rings like crazy on Friday and Saturday nights with people asking for direction. I mentioned that our GPS couldn’t find them. She said that seems to happen a lot.

We are not sure if we would go back or not. They certainly were concerned about making everything right. The food was excellent once my steak problem was straightened out—sort of.

Friday, October 8
Sunny and very warm

I woke up with a very bad sore throat and kept hoping it would go away. We planned to go to Busch Gardens and continued with our plans.

We decided to find the restaurant where we were planning on having a delayed anniversary dinner on Saturday since it was on the way to Busch Gardens. We didn’t find it.

Busch Gardens turned out to be a huge waste of time and money for us. There was very little that we could do because of our age and various health issues. We’d expected at least a few shows to be going on from the information on the website. There were only 2, and they had no appeal.

It also seemed that there were mostly shops and little else in some areas. The 3 roller coasters seem to be the main attraction.

They were really decorated for their “Halloween Spooktacular” that started at 6 in the evening. The scariness was rated by 1-5 pumpkins. Almost all of them had a 5 rating which noted it was for older teens with parental guidance strongly recommended.

Some things were just downright puzzling—nachos in a French Café—huh?

One interesting area was for rehabilitation of injured bald eagles. All of their injuries make them unable to fly. We happened on one of the “trainers” who was very informative.

We also went into the aviary. There were a quite a few lorikeets. One was climbing all over one of the employees in the aviary. It even climbed into her pockets. Another employee had an adorable fluffy little bird sitting on her shoulder.

One of the things we could do was the Rhine River Cruise. You must go down a very steep set of steps and there are warnings about the fact that the steps are steep coming back up on both sides. The steps were set up so that there about 3 steps then a landing. We hung around after we got back from the ride for a “close-up and personal” view of 2 of the roller coasters. By then there was no one around so we could take our time. Paul, unknown to me, was counting the steps. There were 57 steps.

We tried to find the restaurant for Saturday on our way back to the unit. We once again were unable to find it. Our GPS was taking us to strange places.

We had dinner in the unit because we expected to be tired, and we were. We did a huge amount of walking at Busch Gardens which is very hilly. Yep, in Tidewater Virginia which is flat as can be.

After dinner, we found a map that our friends had given us. It was of New Town which would have made finding Opus 9 Steakhouse much easier.

Saturday, October 9
Sunny and Hot

My throat was still very sore this morning making a visit to a doctor necessary. We opted for the Urgent Care Center in New Town. The map of New Town that we found Friday night really came in handy.

We found the Urgent Care Center easily for finding anything in New Town. I filled out 4 different forms all having to do with insurance and no medical history. The medical history was taken once I was in the examining room. I liked the doctor that I saw. Both when he used the tongue depressor and when he swabbed my throat for strep, he told me to keep my eyes open. The reason—you don’t gag. I wish someone had told me that years ago. The good news was that it was not a strep throat despite the fast onset. Whether it was a bacterial infection or a viral infection was difficult to tell. If the infection was bacterial I would feel better in 24 to 36 hours. If it was viral, then it would have to run its course.

We went to the Rite Aid next door to the Food Lion where we shopped on Monday. Since I was in their system, they were able to pull up all of my information.

We wanted to buy wine from the Williamsburg Winery both for ourselves and for some gifts. Our original plan was to go to the Visitors Center Gift Shop. Then we decided that we could go next door to Food Lion to buy the wine. While Paul was wandering around, he found the wine we wanted in the drugstore! They were so nice about finding a box for us and helping us get it to the car. The wine was also readily available at the Visitors Center. Pricing was the same everywhere.

We had lunch in the unit. After lunch I called the restaurant for directions.

We had planned to do some shopping Saturday afternoon. We decided that we were too tired, and I didn’t feel good. We both took serious naps.

Our reservations were at Le Yaca a French restaurant that our friends recommended. (They are in Williamsburg every year). The directions from the restaurant confirmed the fact that the GPS wasn’t even close. I got the address from the AAA tour book. I think the address they published is incorrect.

We had a delicious dinner. We had a choice of A la Carte or a Prix Fixe menu. We opted for the $39 4 Course Prix Fixe dinner. The menu is in French with English translations.

There was no choice of Hors d'œuvre. It was a small plate with 2 items. A large shrimp on a toast with a DiJon mustard sauce and a very sweet plump dried cherry. The other was tomatoes, sundried tomatoes and an olive on puff pastry.

There was a choice of 3 first courses: House Salad, French Onion Soup, or the Soup du Jour. The Soup du Jour was a mushroom soup (our choice).

For the main course there were 4 choices. I opted for a duet of filets. One with a Roquefort sauce, the other with peppercorns and a red wine reduction. Paul had a filet and crab cake.

There were also 4 dessert choices. I had the Gateau au Citron (lemon mousse with fresh fruit) and Paul had the Light Molten Chocolate Cake. I ordered an decaf espresso after dinner. Paul said he would like an after dinner drink. The waitress said that she would be right back with the list. When she brought the bill it was obvious that she had forgotten. Despite that one foul up we had a delightful dinner.

After dinner it was back to unit to pack for our departure on Sunday.


Sunday, October 10
Sunny and Hot

We had the car packed and were checked out by 10:40. We decided to take a slightly different route home than the one we took down. We took the Colonial Parkway ( a beautiful drive) to Yorktown and picked up Route 17 in Yorktown. We then picked up Route 301. Driving on Route 17 was also a very pleasant drive for the most part. Parts of 301 aren’t too bad. The area around Annapolis is just crazy.

This was a slightly longer route for a total of 307.4 miles. Part of the difference was the Colonial Parkway. We also spent more time on Route 17.

I’m still feeling lousy.

Summary

We had a really nice trip and particularly enjoyed Historic Williamsburg. It has both charm and beauty. The docents do a great job of answering questions, etc. You always have the feeling that they truly want you to enjoy your stay.

Sue