January 1, 2003 Arrival in Tortola. Happy New Year!! <br><br>We all met at the Sunsail base in Maya Cove, Tortola. Flights were perfect. Kathryn and I arrived on time, as did Anne and Kirk. Our boat, Silver, is superb; it’s a 39 ft Benateau with 2 cabins and 2 heads. Carlton handled the checkout expertly.<br><br>High winds today, approximately, 25-35 knots with heavy rain in the late afternoon and into the night. We had dinner at Calamaya Marina Restaurant. Good food, Caribs with limes, and our first taste of the notorious BVI Painkiller. <br><br>We expect provisions to arrive in the morning and, after chart briefing, we’ll blast. To the bunks at 10:30. <br><br>January 2. 2003 Maya Cove past the Indians to Soper’s Hole.<br><br>Nobody slept well on our first night with the anticipation of a morning departure. We took showers at the marina, once the water was turned on. The provisions arrived early under the watchful eye of Kirk while Kathryn, Anne, and Rick attended the chart briefing. Marvin did a great job telling us everything about everything including singing dogs and donkeys (at The Last Resort). Anne nearly fell asleep. <br><br>We departed the marina around 11 am with a new anchor (many thanks to Jack for his warning). Winds still strong - ENE 15-22 kn; water was rough with a 2-4 ft chop. Kirk approaches the edge, Kathryn follows, Anne teeters - on the seasick scale. Dramamine for the crew from now on. <br><br>En route from the Indians, we saw our first turtle; he was BIG. <br><br>Pulled into Soper’s around 2:00. Galley wenches get honorable mention for great lunch on board. We headed into shore for exploration - Pusser’s General Store, Red Stripes, good shopping. <br><br>Returned to the boat with Kathryn at the dingy helm - SLAMMED directly into Silver. On second attempt, SUCCESS. <br><br>Good dinner at Pussers, no leftovers except some red cabbage. <br><br>January 3, 2003 Soper’s Hole to Marina Cay via Monkey Point.<br><br>The boys were up at 4AM to close hatches for a passing shower. Anne, in a stupor, was ready to go, back to the bunks until 6AM. Many awoke to the smell of coffee perking and good vibrations (the engine) for Anne. <br><br>Off the mooring at 7:15AM and headed to Monkey Point in 15 – 30 kn on a big [censored] beat for some snorkeling. Anchored successfully and swam in to the shallows for some great sightings – parrot fish, sargent majors and yellow tail snappers – yummy.<br><br>After lunch, the crew retrieved the anchor without difficulty and we set course for Marina Cay. After a successful mooring pickup we headed to shore for libations at the peak. Rick took a brief swim to retrieve water bottles – soggy dollars and credit cards but no thank you from the fellow who originally dropped the bottles. Painkillers and good ocean views saved the day.<br><br>Back at the boat we took showers – Kirk broke down, Anne persevered. The boys took naps with good tunes on the stereo. Reservations were made for later that night at Donovan’s Reef, where we heard Twin Peaks accents, ate great food and drank good red wine. We returned to the boat, struggling to remain dry in the heavy chop.<br><br>Oh, I forgot, we saw a crab on the pier at Pusser’s.<br><br>January 4, 2003 Marina Cay to Great Harbor, Jost van Dyke<br><br>Awoke at 6:30, took the boat into the marina – no water for the boat, no water in the heads – so we had to hike back up to use the head at the bar (lucky we’d scoped out the bar the day before) and off we went. <br><br>Again we had 15-20 kn winds, at first on the nose, but after rounding Scrub Island we headed off on a broad reach with following seas. The autopilot safely delivered us to picturesque Green Cay, where we anchored, anchored again and headed to the reef to snorkel. The fish weren’t quite as plentiful as at Monkey Point, but Anne did spot a manta ray. <br><br>After returning to the boat, we were invaded by a bevy of Latinos with questionable anchoring skills. We quickly weighed anchor and blasted away –destination: Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke. <br><br>After anchoring, we headed to Foxy’s dingy dock and walked around the town. We checked out the stores and sampled the beers at a couple of local establishments. Rick, Anne, and Kirk purchased Foxy attire. <br><br>We returned to Silver to prepare for an evening at Foxy’s and spent a good portion of the afternoon watching Pina Colada’s anchoring techniques, under the less than astute guidance of the Caribbean Mafia. <br><br>We dinghied into Foxy’s around 6:30 for a great barbecue and dancing - Foxy and the pole dancer included. We searched for signs of previous Lashaway Sail Club guests among the numerous pieces of attire draped from the rafters to no avail. <br> <br>At Foxy’s we met Gretchen and Dalton from the SV Quietly, a 43 ft Mason. They had set sail from Virginia on November 3. After weathering a storm suffered a knockdown, took on water, and experienced numerous mechanical difficulties -- in 40 ft seas and 55 kn winds -- they arrived in the BVIs. They told quite a story. We slipped away, returned to Silver at around 10:30 to fall asleep to the rhythm of the calypso drums at Foxys. <br><br>January 5, 2003 Jost Van Dyke past the Indians to Great Harbor at Peter Island.<br><br>AT 6:30 we tiptoed pasted Pina Colada, which had bodies strewn everywhere, but had luckily kept their distance. We tacked our way to a sleepy Sunday Roadtown for provisions. Anne almost stepped on a tarantula on the way to town. The Ample Hamper stayed open past closing time to fill our larder. We taxied back to the boat and set off after lunch to the Indians. <br><br>Winds that afternoon ranged from 15 to 30 kn. Under double reefed main and shortened jib, the crew took turns at the helm. Arrived at the Indians to find great snorkeling. Rick claims he saw a barracuda, but recants the thought after a bit of research. <br><br>Pushed on to Great Harbor on Peter Island where we snagged the last and best mooring in a beautiful cove. The pelicans spent the early evening playing follow the leader and honing their [seemingly uncoordinated] dive skills. <br><br>We expected to eat at the beach club, but it was deserted, so we happily settled for dinner on board – a replay of lunch. A side benefit of the closed beach club was a free mooring. <br><br>After dinner, Kirk kept a close watch on the inside of his eyelids while Rick took Anne and Kathryn to the cleaners in a game of hearts -- double mooner!!<br><br>Masks in Greenwich Village????<br><br>January 6, 2003 Peter Island to The Bight on Norman Island<br><br>We left the mooring at 7:15 and headed to Peter Island Yacht Club at Sprat Harbor. Attempted to steal some water but were busted by a neighboring skipper. Rick paid $20 “to get out of jail” and we headed off to round Peter Island to the south in 12-15 kn winds with 5-6 ft swells. Some of the crew turned various shades of green as we took the long way around Peter and Norman to get in a little extra sailing. <br><br>We reached the Bight at 11. After touring the harbor we attempted to shoot the mooring under sail – near miss, no repercussions. Dinghied ashore for “4 Bacon Cheeseburgers in Paradise” at the Pirates. <br><br>After recovering from several noontime beers, we headed over to the Caves for a bit of snorkeling - best yet!!! <br><br>Returned to the boat for showers (even Kirk) and cocktails. Then, off to Willy T’s for dinner and a party with Kirk’s internet buddies. Anne made a new Colorado friend – single and shopping. (He’s all yours Anne.) Rick befriended Shamu’s skipper and shared great sailing stories. The skipper dismissed tales of a mis-marked Anegada channel markers. As we left, Diane, Colorado’s sister-in- law, was handcuffed, horizontally, to the bar – for who knows what. Highlight of the evening was the Manta Rays circling the boat, waiting for conch fritters. <br><br>Free mooring, second night in a row. <br><br>January 7, 2003 The Bight, Norman Island to Gorda Sound<br><br>When we left the Bight at 7:15, Shamu, home of Colorado and Diane, was still 3 sheets to the wind. We attempted a warm underbelly rounding of Norman to make Virgin Gorda, but the winds weren’t with us, so we turned back to the Sir Francis Drake Funnel. Nice sail in approximately 10 -15 kn winds and calm seas. <br><br>We arrived at the Baths at 11AM, but our mooring luck had run dry. We made a few attempts to anchor, but the bottom was too rocky - AKA sucked - so we aborted the Baths and headed on to Gorda Sound. <br><br>Thanks to the autopilot and a broad reach we ate a comfortable lunch en route. Below the Dogs we engaged in a little friendly sailing competition. We were winning when Anne’s hat flew overboard and we had an opportunity to test our jibing and man-overboard skills. The hat was recovered – surprisingly - and Anne recovered simultaneously.<br><br>We reached Gorda Sound at 3pm and tested the drinks at the Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock. Kathryn and Anne caught a little buzz while Kirk and Rick held their own. We met a nice English couple with plenty of sailing experience that recommended Turkey and the Arctic. They warned us of long anchor watches in the Arctic to prevent polar bears from climbing the anchor rode. <br><br>We had dinner at Saba Rock where Kirk asked “Where’s the beef?” Back at the boat, we retire quickly to the battle of the bands. <br><br>January 8, 2003 Gorda Sound to Anegada. Happy Birthday Kathryn!!!<br><br>The crew was up at the crack of dawn to decorate the boat with birthday pennants and banners. We went to shore to use the facilities at the Bitter End. Back at the boat we met up with the Sunsail flotilla and headed off to Anegada with 4 kn of wind at our back. We decided to motor most of the way behind our fearless Sunsail leader, who seemed to care little for the vessels in his stead. We arrived at Anegada channel at approximately 11AM, where said fearless leader guided us into the perfectly marked channel and the awaiting moorings.<br><br>Went ashore and checked out the shops. We bought great bread and cookies from the renowned Pam’s Bakery. Then had a couple of beers with Pam’s son, Aaron, at Neptune’s Treasure and made reservations for dinner. <br><br>We returned to Silver long enough for Anne and Kirk to collect their books and then dropped them back at the beach. Kathryn and Rick went out for a birthday sail in smooth seas and approximately 8 kn of wind on the beam. No problem with the channel or mooring on their return. Kathryn dinghied back solo for the pick up. R&R until dinner. Pam arrived in her skiff to deliver fresh muffins and more bread. Thanks Pam! <br><br>Aaron did a great job with dinner at Neptune’s Treasure - fresh seafood over pasta, snapper, barbecued ribs, and chicken. Rambo, Aaron’s dog, offered to finish any leftovers. The bugs descended on Anne for their repast. <br><br>Back in the dinghy, Captain Rick set sights for the Anegada Reef Hotel. Not long after departure the motor sputters - a first sign of impending doom – and begins to climb into the boat. Crew, considering mutiny, alerts Captain Rick that we had run aground. <br><br>Our fearless captain, in an attempt to erase all memory of the mishap, got out of the boat and tried to pull the dinghy along the reef, that is until his feet began to sting. He ordered Kirk to the painter where Kirk proceeded to do his best African Queen imitation, delivering us to safety. Finally, we arrived at the hotel where we found a drunken sailor waist deep in the water searching for his lost shaker of salt sunglasses. Safely back to the boat by 10, captain and crew no worse for wear, dinghy??<br><br>January 9, 2003 Anegada to Little Harbor in Jost Van Dyke via Cane Garden Bay<br><br>Left Anegada at first light although we were the second boat through the channel. Our original destination was the Baths but, realizing the 6-8 ft swells would reek havoc with our landing, we decided to alter course to Cane Garden Bay. En route the skies clouded over and the wind picked up, forcing us to batten down the hatches for fear of an impending gale. Dramimine fails the crew. <br><br>At Cane Garden the surfers were out in force – at least someone was enjoying the swells. We eventually picked up a mooring ball but we had a little scare when Rick had to back down hard having forgotten to shorten the painter. But good fortune prevailed and we avoided that disaster by the skin of our teeth. <br><br>While eating lunch we realized the swells were too big to make the mooring – and sleep -- tenable. So moved on – Destination: Little Harbor on Jost Van Dyke. <br><br>En route, Anne, our skipper, raced Suite Midnight Blue and a large Swedish vessel. Of course, we won. <br><br>Found a mooring ball at Little Harbor and the “men” scouted the shore for provisions (orange, pineapple and coconut juice and Pussers rum).<br><br>We had dinner at Sidney’s Peace & Love where you mixed your own drinks. Got to love that. The food was very tasty. We returned to Silver for an early turn in.<br><br>January 10, 2003 Jost Van Dyke to Trellis Bay via the Baths<br><br>We left Jost Van Dyke and motored most of the way to the Baths on Virgin Gorda. We wanted to make sure we arrived early enough to get a mooring ball. When we arrived there were several free balls. We attempted to moor but found the line on the ball was too short. So we set our sights on a yellow ball only to learn that we could stay on it for 1 hour. We decided to retry the first ball. Dinghy sisters to the rescue!! They dinghied over to the ball and added another line to it. The boys returned with Silver and found this design worked much better. After diving the mooring ball, our captain decided we needed another line to secure the boat. <br><br>Then we set off to the Baths. Kirk tied up our dinghy in dinghy mooring area and we swam ashore. The Baths were awesome!!! Everyone really enjoyed exploring them. After the Baths, we went up to the bar at the top of the hill for a drink. The view was superb. <br><br>After some fortification, we swam back to the dinghy but we couldn’t find it. There was a dinghy very similar to ours so we assumed someone had taken the wrong one. We used this dinghy to go look for ours. As we motored around, we noticed a catamaran with a dinghy stuck underneath it. We wondered “Could it be ours?” Sure enough, our dinghy had freed itself and floated away. Luckily the cat was between it and the high seas. <br><br>The people on the catamaran didn’t speak English we so smiled and apologized profusely. We returned the “borrowed” dinghy while its owners still happily explored the Baths, never to be the wiser – unless they noticed the knot. <br><br>Happy to have our dinghy back we returned to Silver for some lunch. Over lunch we watched the boat next to us break away from its mooring. A lone onboard napper luckily woke up and quickly, realized what had happened. He circled around to pick up his colleagues and they headed off. <br><br>After lunch, we sailed to Marina Cay for water and fuel. Our docking left a little to be desired – and I won’t comment on the dropped stern line. A scrubby quickly eliminated any evidence of mishap. <br><br>Then, off to Trellis Bay. Kathryn steered us to the mooring ball and the dinghy girls (DG) went to town to look around. Meanwhile the boys swabbed the deck and showered. The DG returned to their handsome men and tidy boat for Pain Killers – all was right with the world. <br><br>That night we planned to go to the Last Resort, but it was closed, so we went to De Loose Mongoose for dinner. It was a cute place with good food and a fun staff. I’d recommend it. Back to the boat for more cocktails and bed. <br><br>January 11, 2003 Trellis Bay to Home<br> <br>Everyone was up early in anticipation of our return travels. Anne wasn’t feeling too well – one too many cocktails. Originally we had planned to go to Monkey Point for a last little bit of snorkeling, but when we realized that Anne and Kirk needed to catch a 10:30 ferry, we readjusted. We sailed to Roadtown and dropped them off. Unfortunately, they had missed that ferry but found a taxi driver who took them to Soper’s to catch a later alternative. <br><br>Kathryn and Rick motored to Maya Cove and returned the boat without incident. <br><br>I guess our vacation is really over. <br>