We just arrived in SXM (on 12/11) We usually go in early June, but wanted to see what the place was like at the opposite time of the year. We touched ground with our half filled plane from NY's JFK at 4:20 p.m. (local time) and after a 7-10 minute wait at Immigration, and a slightly even longer wait for the bride to make use of the ladies room which had a longer line, we claimed our now damp baggage (maybe left out on some airports tarmac, apparently in NY) and then jumped into reliable Louis Richardson's Taxi van by 5:00 p.m , and craaaaawled through Simpson Bay. How heavy was the traffic? We left the airport at 5:00 and we ended up being about 7 vehicles away from NOT making it past the 5:30 p.m. Simpson bridge opening. We made maybe a 20 minute stop at Grande Marche (on Bush Road). Twas amusing to see them hawking real cut pine Christmas Trees out in front of the store for $60 (5-6 feet high). They had a shipping container full of trees in the lot. It was also different to see the locals puttering around in their little cars with these trees on their roofs. After acquiring the essentials like Etna Ice Cream, Absolut Vodka, Tonic Water (BTW there was no liter bottles of diet tonic water to be had of any brand) and we arrived at Club O at app. 7:00 p.m. and happily…. there was no line of people waiting to check in! Oh happy day! – Of course that check in went smooth as silk and we were enjoying some dinner in Papagayo’s by 8:00 p.m.

Note that check in at Club O has changed a little, and you do a lot of digital signing with the digital pen. The process at the Perch and Papagayo’s still involves paper. Not much changed there. At the time we signed in, we asked how full the resort was and were told it was presently at 48% full.

That 7:00 p.m. arrival was also a bit of a bummer as we usually like a “first dip” on arrival day, but the persistent “Christmas Winds” (they’re true!) everyone talks about and the darkness squelched that notion immediately. We settled for a shower, dropped our duds, and headed for dinner.

Club O no longer gives you a certificate for a free bottle of wine with dinner at Papagayo’s on check-in. Now it’s tickets for two cocktails whenever you wish, redeemable at the Perch Bar or Papagayo’s , and valid all times, except during each places Happy Hours. Yet in our room on arrival was found a lovely gift wrapped bottle of “Domaine des Deux Ruisseaux” Rosee Wine and an official coveted Club O bright yellow reusable grocery bag from the staff of Club O!! Happy Holidays!

Dinner at the finely decorated for Christmas Papagayo’s on this Tuesday (non-entertainment) night, saw about 20 people in all present. We cashed in those coupons for free cocktails (as we didn’t want them unused if the Mayans happen to be right or had transposed some numbers from their 12/21/12 prediction!) and at dinner whilst enjoying Shrimp Papagayo and the bride savoring their Sole with Lemon Butter, we met a nice newlywed couple from Phoenix, AZ and talked with them until maybe 9:15 a.m. – but with us having been up since 3:00 a.m. to meet our flight schedule, we were travel weary and pretty zonked. We walked back to our unit and for the first time ever, with the steady wind, and darkness, we were a might chilly! (oooohhh! I hate reporting that). Funny part was that the couple we had met at dinner turned out to be the occupants of our duplex style mini-suite!

Wednesday, 12/12/12 – We hit the beach at maybe 10:00 a.m. and walked around a little to see what’s changed. The beach in our estimation has lost 50% of itself since June. The erosion by Papagayo’s has gotten worse since then, and in fact the whole beach has gotten much thinner everywhere. Papagayo’s now has water lapping against the front, and on this particular windy day the waves hitting the side were sending spray that pretty much soaked the outdoor picinic tables they have there. They had the shutters in place to lessen the wind and keep spray out of the enclosed portion of the restaurant. Pedro’s beach area is down to 3 short rows of chairs, none of which looked very desirable. They are basically now all thoroughly crammed into an ever shrinking area beneath the famous Club Orient Nude Beach sign right up the dune bordering the sign. They are also now immediately right next to the drop off zone for the cabs and vans, so if you did opt for Pedro’s chairs, you’re apt to end up in many a Cruise Ship or tourist’s vacation photos.

The notion that sand on Orient simply shifts from side to side between Club O and Mount Vernon doesn’t seem like it can happen in our eyes, as nobody’s end of the beach has any sand to spare. The entire length of the beach is suffering from very noticeable sand loss. Anyway the wind on 12/12 was such that one’s glasses were salt covered inside of 15-20 minutes if you were on the front row of chairs, as the breaking waves spew their salt laden mist into the persistent strong steady wind. I’m sure being in the back rows made you susceptible to being sandblasted. You could watch the sand blowing into the resort off the beach at any point along the beach’s small dunes. The umbrellas were up though, but their relentless edges violently flapping and the wind made for a noisy environment.

Having previously been here only in May or June, we also noticed immediately the lower angle of and hence the much less intense sun. There’s app. two less hours of daylight now as opposed to June. We’re not needing near the sun block applications that we needed in May-June. It was also different to see people reversing the direction of their lounge chairs at app. 2:30-3:00 p.m. so that their backs were to the water, and fronts facing the fast retreating sun. Water temperature is also a little colder for sure.

None the less we met a few other nice couples on 12/12, my bride gave one tour of our Mini-suite to one curious couple, who wondered what it was like over that dune! Another couple we met was from Cruise ship, and they mentioned that the rough seas being churned up by these “Christmas Winds” is very noticeable on board their ship, with some people complaining. They did say that they did not witness any seasickness. We had lunch that day at Ethnic with owner Fred ever present. I had the Red Snapper in provincial sauce and the bride had the Thai Burger. Ethnic was great as usual, and when we were there at app. 1:00 p.m. the place was almost completely filled.

Dinner 12/12 was at Papagayo’s with the same Phoenix, AZ couple we met the previous night. It was their final night. I had the Chicken Kabob, and the bride the Sole with Lemon Butter again. We also shared a French Onion soup and the conversation and wine flowed to well past 11:00 p.m. Papagayo’s was very well attended this night with upwards of 60 or so in attendance.

As for the renovations at Club Orient: The mattresses are new, firm but comfortable. We still have the same old bolt lock safe, and there are no signs of TV coming anytime soon. We spoke with a couple who own a unit here, and they said that Cable TV is still on the way, and that they heard that there have been problems with the installation in that a Cable TV staff member who was coordinating the install quit or something like that. TV is still supposedly on the way, but it appears it will be more towards later than sooner.

I hope to get up early enough one of these mornings to get some decent pictures that show the status of the beach for the curious.