We are spending hurricane season in Grenada. Our boat was with the TMM fleet for a couple of years until we took it out of charter during COVID. We now live aboard and have been in Grenada since July. Grenada’s southern bays are a real crossroads for cruisers as many insurance policies require boats to be below 12 Degrees North during Atlantic storm season. There are literally hundreds, perhaps close to a thousand cruising sailboats here.

On the shopping buses, in the cruisers’ bars, at the fish market, one hears cruisers discussing future cruising itineraries. Consistently cruisers warn other cruisers that the BVI, specifically, has become one of the Caribbean’s most unfriendly destinations for full-time cruisers. Yesterday a couple who took their boat out of the Moorings fleet a couple of years ago described a disheartening incident. Upon attempting to checking in at Road Town the Customs officials insisted they were operating a charter boat and would not change their position (we have heard this type story from other cruisers on ex-charter boats). The couple backtracked to the USVI before moving south. Several other cruisers have told stories of the C&I officials in the BVI being highly unreasonable. Quite a contrast to the officials here and the other islands we’ve checked into. Here in Grenada they are very accommodating. A Customs officer here said he has heard many negative stories about his counterparts in the BVI.

My wife and I have visited the BVI approximately 20 times over the years. We would like very much like to go back as full-time cruisers but virtually ever cruiser we encounter advises that the BVI has become strictly a charter destination and cruisers are not welcomed. I must say there has to be some merit to this position because it is almost the universal sentiment with the dozens of cruisers we’ve interacted with. One popular YouTube couple said they are thinking of doing an episode about their experience in Road Town as a general warning to cruisers. What is the view from the BVI?

The BVI gov has plenty of issues including C&I, for sure. There is a puzzling gov ambivalence to tourism in general. That said, individual experiences clearing in seem to be a function of timing and port of entry. I think JVD has a easier/friendlier track record than Road Town. I believe you can also clear in at West End and Spanish Town now, which would also be a better choice than RT. The flip side is all the awesome places to visit once you are thru the gate.

(Full disclosure: I am not a full time cruiser....I've been chartering in the BVI for the last 15+ years and have owned a couple charter boats. My experience with BVI C&I is limited to sailing to and from the BVI and USVI (incl St Croix))

Forest Gump on BVI customs.
“BVI customs is like a box of Chocolates, you never know what you are going to get!”

I would be interested to hear Zanshin's take on this question, although I think I probably already know, as he has somewhat 'voted with his feet' on the question.

Maybe I’m the exception but we’ve been cruising the Caribbean full time for over 5 years and have entered the BVI probably 10 times during that period. Other than the occasional grumpy or painfully slow person at C&I we’ve not really had any issues. Other than the nonsensical $1 / per foot Harbor fee which I think started last year, the costs aren’t horrendous. I do see people complaining about it costing a lot to check in but that’s usually charter boats which get hit by daily per/person fees.

I find JVD the best place to check in. West end is hit or miss depending on the people working that day. Virgin Gorda was just plain mean the one time I checked in there.

We still find it the best place to take family and friends visiting due to the short sailing distances, the numerous anchorages, and the many bars and restaurants.

It’s not all great however. Don’t get me started on the Boatyball nonsense. It’s a solution to something that was not a problem. It’s also getting harder to anchor since more and more balls are using up the space. The mooring ball cost is one of biggest reason we limit out stays. At $35-50 per day depending on location it too pricey for us.

Boatyball is another reason many cruisers actively avoid the BVI. Most cruisers curse Boatyball with lesser concerns expressed about general mooring fees and limited anchoring. Obviously, Grenada is not the charter destination the BVI is, but mooring fees here are much more affordable. We are currently paying $7.50 US per night for a well-maintained mooring in a desirable (but not touristy) location. Based on most of the conversations I’ve had about the BVI as a cruising destination, the drawbacks for most cruisers are:

1) Problems at C&I, sometimes serious problems, and the feeling that as a cruiser, you nor your boat are welcomed visitors. (Protection of the charter industry?)
2) High mooring fees and diminishing options for anchoring.
3) Generalized high prices
4) There also seems to be a feeling that visitors, whether arriving by sea or air, are less welcomed in the BVI (especially U.S. residents) than on other Caribbean islands.

I knew the BVI was gaining more of a negative reputation, particularly during, and as COVID subsided, but I’ve been surprised by the level of negativity within the cruising community. My wife and I really love the BVI and plan to spend an extended amount of time there again. However, we do feel a bit of dread anticipating some of the hassles others have experienced over the last few years.

As a charter boat owner (2nd boat, both in BVI), I have made numerous trips in and out of BVI (mostly to USVI). C&I can be hit or miss and I agree that JVD is generally the least hassle(Although the last time I cleared in and out of RoadTown, all of the officers were very nicenad I was in and out in less than 15 minutes. Unfortunately, too many episodes of wanting to demonstrate authority.When going in/out, I am always asked "charter boat?" and I reply "It is my boat, but is in the TMM Charter Fleet" . Primarily what they seem to want top see is a copy of where the fee has been paid to the government. A copy of bill of sale would likely be helpful, but it seems to always be influenced by their mood. Best advice I can give is to always start with pleasant "Good Morning , Officer"... it helps.

Regarding the BoatyBall situation, I can certainly understand the expense side of it for cruisers as you are facing over 300 nights per year anchoring/ mooring. But for the average charterer, 7-10 nights and usually split between 3-4 couples, the benefit of being able to sail longer is substantial.

I would love to see Ocean Song back in the BVI in January/ February.

I cleared into Virgin Gorda once and a French group of 4 were clearing in ahead of me. They were the owners of a boat which had been in charter in St. Martin. They had the paperwork to prove it. But the C&I officials insisted that this was a foreign charter boat. I can't recall the actual sum charged, but it was over $1000. The group didn't have U.S. visas for the USVI (remember, ESTA doesn't apply for foreigners entering the USA on sailboats) and the weather was bad for returning to St. Martin so they had no choice. The C&I folks knew that too, and remained adamant about collecting the fees. While I don't wish to cast aspersions on these particular officers, it is well to recall that an audit of BVI customs books showed hundreds of thousands of "missing" funds...

Last season I talked with numerous cruisers up and down the island chain and often I heard that the BVI was now off their cruising plans. I always recommend that those who've never been to the BVI should go, but be cognizant of the C&I and service industry issues. But if you've been there before, skip it.

I might return for the spring regatta, but there are so many other islands that are (almost) as nice and far more welcoming. At present "Zanshin" is in Carriacou, Grenada.That really is a friendly island...

Deepcut:

Ocean Song definitely plans to return to the BVI in January for an extended stay. Hopefully, we can avoid many of the problems other cruisers have experienced. I’ll drop your name with C&I, I’m sure they will whisk us through.

All the Clemson fans in Woburn Bay are currently grieving.

Let’s stay in touch. We will keep you updated on our cruising plans.

I have cleared in for landbased trips in Roadtown, West End, JVD, EIS and Anegada. As others have said JVD is pretty good. Anegada was absolutely awesome. Hopefully that will open back up soon. I found the airport to be the worst not matter how friendly I am to the agents. But to be honest, my worst encounters with C&I officials have been at the ferry dock in Charlotte Amelia as well as the St Thomas airport. Back before the USVI required passports, it was one year prior, I watched an agent berate a 12 year kid because he didn't have one yet. I jumped in to the poor kid's defense and he turned his wrath on me. For the next hour I was put through the wringer. I probably should have kept my mouth shut. But he had that kid in tears.

No passport is required for the USVI.

Good morning. Our home port is St. John USVI. We are enjoying our third hurricane season in the south bays of Grenada, currently hauled out for bottom and rigging work at Clarkes Court Boatyard. Sailing up and down the chain from the US to Grenada, there are a lot of different experiences and costs. The French islands barely have C&I. The English and Dutch islands have a lot of bureaucracy and expenses. The Dominican Republic has the most hassle - imagine four people plus an interpreter on your boat to check in? As a US flagged vessel and crew with US passports, US C&I is the easiest and cheapest.

For a privately owned vessel never previously in charter, the BVI C&I experience is similar to Antigua. Sailclear has made the process easier. We checked in and out at Spanishtown VG in July and there was no hassle. But, it is expensive. Probably the most expensive in the chain. Temporary import fee is not something I have seen elsewhere. Certainly not in Grenada.

What stands out is the treatment of charter and former charter vessels. BVI are effectively putting up barriers for foreign charter vessels to visit. We have seen many of our crewed charter friends move their boats and business to the BVIs.

Cheers, RickG