This report is on our tenth trip to St. Maarten. We enjoyed the first week to ourselves, and the remainder two weeks son Bron and significant other Rachel joined us, along with Bruce and Judy from Indiana, Craig and Brenda from Kentucky, Mike and Jane from Florida, and Jill and Herbert from Oregon. (No, we did not all stay in the same villa!)
<center>Highlights,Changes, New Places Visited</center>
As we fly from Oregon, we spent the night in Charlotte on the way down and back to break up the marathon and multiple connections from the West Coast. This was our first trip via CLT. The Charlotte airport is a delight as far as airports go. I fly a lot for work, and Charlotte appears better managed, is user friendly, and well maintained compared to other airports. Going through customs was swift, with enough customs stations staffed to handle the traffic quickly.
Weather
This was by some of the best weather we have encountered.
SSBB
Much discussion, pro and con, has occurred on this board about SSBB. We have watched the bar evolve from a small place with five or six tables to its current size. We attended the Halloween Party where Rachel participated in the costume competition resulting in her picture posted several times on the SSBB website, - a great trip souvenir. A good time was had by all. We did notice that overall food and service was better and handled more quickly than last year. We also enjoyed listening to air traffic on the speakers. Our only negative comment is the price of the drinks, and the apparent varying price of the drinks. We expect high drink prices at the nightclubs, but felt that for a beach bar, the increase in prices over last year, are a tad steep. Several of us are not beer drinkers, and at $8.00 for blended drinks, one may quickly become a beer drinker. It also appears that depending on the bartender, the cost of beer could be $2 - $4. At first we decided this was due to the live music, but later discovered the prices can vary despite live music or canned. Perhaps we missed something with our observations, but our beer drinkers had the same comments about the shifting cost of beer (within minutes of purchase) throughout our stay.
<center>New Experiences</center>
Breezin’
We had dinner at Breezin’ one evening as a result of reading the report on the TTOL party held weeks earlier at that location. We recommend this restaurant, based on our experience, as a medium priced dinner with a nice, friendly atmosphere. We had scallops with fettuccine and mahi mahi with a mango sauce. Very well prepared. The bill came to $85-$90 range, and included several drinks and wine with dinner. We especially enjoyed the guitar player in the bar and stayed to linger after dinner to share a table with new friends and listen to the music. Rose Halley, the owner, is especially attentive and very accommodating.
Sky’s the Limit
Based on Ed and Sandra’s trip report, my husband and I had lunch on our second day at Sky’s the Limit in Grand Case before Bron, Rachel, and others arrived. On our third day, we also had lunch at this outstanding lolo. We found ourselves going out of our way for the next several weeks to have their garlic shrimp and/or ribs. As we had many friends coming in over the next several weeks, we continued to bring additional people for lunch. It became ridiculous when several couples in our group went various directions one day and most of us ended up running into each other at Sky’s the Limit for lunch. Ruth Ann on the BBQ is a “hoot”, Jacqueline the owner, is very gracious, and Sonny the sauté cook, appreciative of compliments. Jill and Herbert stopped by one early evening after a long day of snorkeling, and Ruth Ann put together a great meal for them to take back and eat on their villa deck. During our visits, we were always treated like family members. What more can I say…in our opinion it’s a great place.
Johnny B under the Tree
We have always vowed to try Johnny B’s but never made it until this year. We decided to have a small beach party and sent several members to Johnny B under the Tree with instructions to get enough food to feed 12 people. The message was relayed exactly as given and the amount of food provided was perfect. The total cost was $58.00. With coolers of ice cold drinks and good friends, it was a memorable party. Well, some of us remembered it! All agreed it just doesn’t get better than this.
Yacht Club
We had breakfast at the Yacht Club one morning on our way to Phillipsburg for the annual booze run. Not an extensive breakfast menu, but very good food. The Bloody Mary breakfast drink is particularly worth the fare if you are a Bloody Mary fan. Neil, as usual, is a gracious host.
Snorkeling
We have snorkeled on prior trips, but have found it not as good as in other Caribbean islands. This trip however, we had some decent snorkeling at Baie Rouge and friends Jill and Herbert had great snorkeling at Mullet early one morning and at Pinel Island. As the water was fairly clear during this trip and not murky from high wave action, the snorkeling was worth the effort.
Bliss
Bron and Rachel spent an evening at SSBB (they are beer drinkers) and later at Bliss, next to Caravanserai, with Miguel, the Spice Man from the Marigot market. Those of us who yearly visit his booth at the market are well aware of his salesmanship, charisma, and cute smile. According to Rachel, Miguel is also a great dancer. Good marks for Bliss, with its designer style and ambiance, if you can stay up late enough for the 11:00PM opening. (Mom and Dad never made it to Bliss!) Cover charge is $10.00 for guys, $5.00 for girls, with beer going for $5.00.
Sunset Café – Grand Case Beach Club
Eight of us had dinner at the Sunset Café next to the Grand Case Beach Club. The view is excellent and the food very good. We had appetizers such as ravioli in a morel sauce, escargot in a puff pastry and cream sauce, and main dishes of glazed veal, raspberry duck, and shrimp fettuccine to name a few. Our issue was with the service. Bron and Rachel sat at a side table three feet from the main table as there was not enough room for all of us at one table. The wait staff well understood we were all together, and took their order with ours. They did, however, forget them several times (bread, additional drinks, etc.) There were two duck dishes on the menu, - when dinner arrived, a member of our party received the other duck dish, without explanation. After it was brought to their attention, it was explained that they were out of the first type of duck ordered, so a substitution with the other duck dish occurred without prior explanation. After the bill was presented and paid, they returned and stated they had neglected to add the coffee and dessert. Bron and Rachel paid separately, of which, the wait staff were informed ahead of time. The balance left after their payment certainly exceeded 35% and did not come back to their table. When asked about the balance of the change, they were told it had been placed in the tip jar. Possibly we are missing something in our restaurant etiquette. In all fairness, the restaurant was busy, but not full, towards the end of our meal. We did have reservations. For us personally, the service at the Sunset Café was one of only two real disappointments out of a three week stay.
<center>Old Places Re-Visited
(but certainly not all)</center>
Lady C and Pizza
Still excellent pizza and very good salads reasonably priced. The drinks are good and strong at the Lady C. I believe the pizza place is separate from the Lady C, but my note taking was atrocious on this trip. Sorry.
Pizza Pasta – Maho Plaza behind Cheri’s
Good pizza, but by consensus, not as good as at the Lady C. This was surprising as we have always had good food at Pizza Pasta. Get there early, or you well definitely wait for a table.
Very popular.
La Rosa II – Maho Plaza
Excellent food and service. Our group of eight ran the gamut with filet, ossa bucca, veal, and fettuccine to name a few. Considering the size of the group, our merry time (it was a wedding anniversary celebration) and our numerous drink and wine orders, the service was nothing but outstanding. Well over four figures for dinner, but worth every penny (ies).
Uncle Harry’s
We always stop by Uncle Harry’s once during our stay, located on Airport Road, marina side, by the Thrifty Car rental sign. The restaurant fare is steak and lobster mainstays, with other chicken, pork, and fish dishes. Prices start from $15 for dinner items. Unless you go early, or have reservations, you may have to wait for a table. Also, Uncle Harry’s cooks his steaks on the rarer side, compared to other places. Make sure you ask about, or let them know the color of “doneness” desired. My filet was excellent. Uncle Harry’s is a different experience than La Rosa Too, with bottled salad dressings, and picnic type tables, but combined with the boathouse setting, it only makes the experience all the better. Service is very attentive, but they can get busy. After finishing our meal and lingering over drinks, we were asked to vacate the table as they had people waiting. This surprised us somewhat, but we were ready to leave and no offense was taken.
Hot Tomatoes
After all the discussion about Hot Tomatoes we decided to try it again as previous meals were good with a fun atmosphere. Suffice it to say we could tell all was not well with only four other couples dining and a few patrons at the bar. The scarcity of the meal (no bread although we both did not need it) and a recommendation not to try a certain dish, foretold of things to come. Several days later, they shut down with a For Sale sign posted on the building and a guard in front.
Buccaneer Beach Bar
Had a great time at the TTOL party on October 30th. Met old friends Ray and Aggie (Shore Boy) and some new ones, Anita and Smiley (Ready to Go). Anita and Smiley are a great, interesting couple and we enjoyed visiting with them several times throughout our trip. (Hi to both of you!) We appreciated Paul and Vicki’s expertise on snorkeling places, met Ann and Dave once again, and Carl and Jill who live several hours north of us in Oregon. TTOL parties allow you to visit with friends that often come the same time each year and meet new friends to as well. Neil is always a good host at these gatherings.
<center>General</center>
Groceries
The prices on liquor and cigarettes have gone up about $1-2.00, but still a bargain. We found the Grand Marche' near the roundabout into Philipsburg as the best place to shop for all around food items. The market at Maho is second on our list, especially since they validate parking and will deliver your groceries to you as you drive out of the park garage. If it is in stock, the Triple D market in Simpson Bay carries Bud light and 7-Alive also in Simpson Bay carries diet and regular Pepsi.
Car Rental
As in the past, our car rental was with Unity, a new dark green Toyota RAV. Excellent service as usual.
Traffic
The traffic situation continues to get worse. If you learn the areas to stay away from during certain times of the day, the traffic is tolerable. But if you get caught in Simpson Bay during noon or late afternoon, or in Marigot on market days, be prepared to move forward at a snail’s pace. It took us 30 minutes to move through the street past the local market in Marigot. Market day at 1:00PM, - definitely not a good decision.
Roadblocks
One day while going from Simpson Bay to Grand Case via the lowlands, we came up on a road block with checks being conducted by the local gendarmerie. We were second or third in line. As Bron and his Dad had two open beer cans, Bron quickly, but unobtrusively (we thought), hid the beer in the console. As it came our turn, with the beer safely stashed, we were cautioned to use our seat belts or face a 90 Euro fine. Two of us buckled up and politely thanked the gendarme. He gave us a quick salute, and told Bron he could finish his drink. We chortled about that all the way to Grand Case.
Second Disappointment
One of our favorite, if not THE favorite place to spend the day is at the Friar’s Beach Café. For the first time since we have been going to the island, they were closed for vacation during our entire stay. This was a real downer for us and our second disappointment of the trip. The meals at FBC are memorable and Friar’s Beach is home for us, as Orient Beach is for others. In fact, we are considering planning our next trip so it does not conflict with their annual vacation time.
Theft at Baie Longue
A couple in our group experienced a theft from their vehicle at Baie Longue. They parked their car and checked out the beach for snorkeling possibilities. They were away from their vehicle approximately 4 minutes. On their way back to the car, they heard the slam of a car door. To make a long story short, a digital and video camera was stolen from the trunk. A chase ensued, with a villa gardener joining in as he had previous experience with the thief. The fellow was not caught, but his stash of wallets, binoculars, and water bottles was located in dense brush and subsequently turned into the French police. They are well aware of his activities as they arrested him on a previous occasion. We do not know the prior circumstances. So, watch out for the Baie Longue area, and certainly leave nothing in your car no matter where you park. If you had a wallet recently stolen in this area you may want to contact the Marigot police.
Miscellaneous
Perhaps it is just our personal take, but it appears that island gossip and opinions, both harmless and malicious, increases each year among locals and especially visitors. After one conversation with another visitor, we were tempted to say, “Well, last time we looked, this was their island and not ours.” To us, the fact that it is not a US territory with all of its trappings is the best part of experiencing SXM.
In conclusion, we have eleven rolls of film to develop from a wonderful trip. This old warhorse (war mare?) appreciated the earlier discussion on cameras as we have decided to move into the 21st century and purchase a digital camera. Thanks to all for the camera discussion and to those who made it through the end of this report.
