We just returned from our fourth visit to St. Martin in as many years, from January 11th - 20th, 2007. My in-laws joined us on this trip – it was their first trip to the Caribbean and a gift from my husband and me. This was our first trip during “high” season (though we learned that January is really not considered “high” season to the locals), and I now thoroughly understand why people spend 40% more to go during January-March. The weather is truly lovely. It far surpasses weather experienced in our past trips, which have been in mid-April, June/July, October, and a cruise stop in August.

Before this trip, I could not imagine being in the Caribbean and not feeling hot. I live in the Southern U.S. and am on intimate terms with both searing heat and crushing humidity. My experiences in St. Martin in the past have been like Georgia in August. This time, the weather was pleasant (around 80 degrees) with a nice breeze. I even wore a light jacket most evenings.

Accommodations: We stayed in Villa Matisse #4 on Orient Beach (thanks Jim Ruos at CITS). This is a townhome right behind Waikiki and to the right of Caribbean Princess. Although we did not have an ocean view, you could hear the ocean constantly from the back patios. A two-minute walk to the beach, we found this property to be an excellent base. There is no air-conditioning downstairs, but we truly never needed it. The three bedrooms upstairs were well air-conditioned, and the bathrooms adequate. All bedrooms have a veranda and there was a main patio downstairs. This was not necessarily a “luxury” property, but we didn’t expect that. We’ve stayed in Terres Basses villas before, and this doesn’t compare – but we didn’t expect it to.

Good points of Matisse #4: Location, outdoor spaces, large master suite, satellite TV that offered plenty of English channels, washing machine, dishwasher, very comfortable beds, automatic hurricane shutters for added security.

Bad points of Matisse #4: Location (three nights we were kept up by parties at Waikiki or Bikini – the French really party late), no blender, power failures every time I attempted to operate the hair dryer that came with the villa, and one of the showers backed up.

Despite the negative points (nothing is ever perfect), I would not hesitate to stay at Matisse #4 again.

New Discoveries:

Even after four trips, there are still new things to discover. In Orient Village Place (near Safari Grill and Le Piment), Friday nights are now an event (at least during high season). There is live music and some vendors selling jewelry, Ma Dou Dou, art, etc. The local French take advantage of this and bring their families out. It is really lovely to sit outdoors and enjoy a nice dinner. If you’re going to be on the island in the next couple of months, I suggest you try it out. Very lovely atmosphere.

Pinel Island. Yes, I know… everyone has been. I had not. The “Christmas Winds” kicked the waves at Orient a bit high for my taste, so we set out for calmer conditions. We tried Pinel on a whim and I was amazed at its beauty. We tried it on a Sunday (very busy as many residents appear to visit on this family day) and then we went back on Monday. It really is lovely and I think it’s a “can’t miss” on anyone’s itinerary. It’s my new favorite spot “on” (or rather near) St. Martin.

High Points:

Grand Case Nights: We went on Tuesday evening and had a lovely time. The street vendors are still there, residents and tourists alike mingle, and it is, in short, everything one imagines the Caribbean to be.

Anguilla: We did a day trip and Shoal Bay East continues to be the most beautiful beach I’ve seen in person. The development on Anguilla is a bit staggering. There will be some development behind Shoal Bay East, but it will apparently be set back from the ocean a bit. St. Regis Residences are being built, CuisinArt is expanding, condos are popping up along Mead’s Bay… it doesn’t look as if monstrosities are being built (there appears to be a three-story limit?) but I worry the development will ruin the lovely place that is Anguilla. I really fell in love with Anguilla this trip and hope to return for an extended stay. I don’t mean to start any inflammatory comments, but the people of Anguilla seemed genuinely friendlier than those on St. Martin. I felt welcomed.

Cheap Eats: We needed to be more cost-conscious this trip than on trip’s past. As such, we found some really great places for really affordable prices. Please, do yourself a favor and eat at Lal’s (Chicken Vindaloo was awesome), Aldywan, the Lolo’s, Le Piment, Tap Five Pizza, Baywatch (great chicken philly) and Tai Chi (more moderate than inexpensive).

Grand Case Beach Club: We stopped by for Happy Hour before Grand Case Nights. Drinks are half-price from 5:30-6:30, and it’s still a lovely spot. We’ve stayed there before and I thought the resort looked the best I’ve ever seen it. I hate how the new residences destroyed Petit Plage a bit, but the resort itself is in top shape. It really is a special place on the island, and I hope it can remain so for years to come.

Sunset Beach Bar: Controversial or not, I still love it. Out of all the arrivals and departures we watched, the best was a DHL delivery plane that “buzzed” the bar and received applause from the patrons. It was a really small plane and he came in low, fast and sideways. It seems like the pilots who don’t have passengers on board love landing an PJIA.

Airport: Yes, it’s really nice. No, I don’t miss the old PJIA.

Flights: We had two connections out of Atlanta on AA. One in Miami, one in San Juan. Are we crazy? A bit. Believe it or not, not one flight was delayed, canceled, or interrupted by any act of God or man. Pleasant experiences in both airports, and all our luggage arrived. A modern-day miracle? Perhaps.

Lack of Crime: I saw not a hint of crime. We did use our hurricane shutters as protection at night. On our departure day, the Daily Herald reported that a car rental agency owner (who shall remain nameless) punched a tourist in the face after a heated argument. That’s the only crime I heard about.

Low Points: Into every life a little rain must fall, right? The low points were few, but do bear mention. First, Dawn Beach looks terrible. We didn’t go in the Westin, but it’s ugly folks. Second, there is a lot of development on the island. I expected this, but Cupecoy is so built up, it’s amazing. Who is going to buy all these places? Third, traffic was a bit bad, but we only got stuck in a jam or two. Fourth, I hate what the Christmas winds do to Orient. Too wavy for my taste. Fifth, the euro conversion rate stinks. No one’s fault, of course, but I still hate that 30% mark-up. We used cash when available. Sixth, we had to come back home.

So-So Points: Strangely, our most expensive dining experiences were our least pleasurable. While I loved the atmosphere at Tabba Khady, my meal was just okay. I perhaps made an ordering error, as I don’t like anise and it was used in the sauce for my fish. My father-in-law’s dish was superb (mixed seafood), as was my husband’s steak.

Le Cottage, in my humble opinion, has gone a bit downhill. The prices have gone up, they’ve done away with the amuse bouche, and my sea bass was a bit watery. We also ate at Restauant du Soleil another night, and the food was decent (atmosphere was great). I much preferred the meals at Tai Chi, Le Piment, and even Tap Five’s pizza to anything I tasted in Grand Case (except the lolo’s, of course).

All in all, I’ve droned on much longer than I’d hoped. My nine nights were very rejuvenating, but I fear work is ruined for me in the short-term. Who wants to work when one can spend one’s days walking endless beaches while drinking red wine, eating rich pastries, french bread and gouda and sleeping on comfortable linens that you don’t launder yourself?

Who, I ask you?