Trip report April 5- April 12th 2008

Flights: US Air direct from Charlotte to SXM. Fairly smooth except for departure from CLT when two passengers were no-shows and their baggage had to be removed. We lost our number two position in line and were bumped down to number twelve. Left 40 minutes late and arrived nearly an hour late. Immigration folks were in a foul mood and baggage took forever to find its way into terminal. Several folks missed their connections to St. Barts as a result. Leslie met us the airport with a very reliable Corolla. Picked up phone from Sharon and headed to Grand Marche for supplies.

Pulled into the lot for Marche and parked near several other guys doing guard duty while their wives shopped. I decided we needed a beer for our time in the lot and went into Mark’s and bought the first round. Now, we are in an Island frame of mind. Wives emerged from store and we all went our respective ways. We would run into each other throughout the week. We headed for Orient and Bruno’s Paradise Bungalows. I forgot to bring the directions supplied by Bruno but had a fairly decent idea where the unit was located. After arriving at the Village, I realized I needed help. I stopped at the reception desk of Green Cay and the very nice receptionist got me in touch with Bruno. He came down on his motorcycle and led us to the unit. We were very close the whole time. Unit was very nice with an open bedroom, small kitchen with all necessary appliances, nice bathroom, and a terrace overlooking Orient Bay. You can walk down to Orient Beach by cutting through La Plantation and taking the road down to Waikiki and Coco. We walked the beach several mornings before it got too busy. We ate at Talk Of The Town Saturday night and turned in early.

The Weeks Activities

Sunday- Got up early and had breakfast at Baywatch. We Met Andy and his staff. Wife had the blueberry pancakes and I had the Western Omelet, great way to start the day! Wind was howling so Orient Beach was not doable. Went to Baie Rouge where it was calmer but water was too churned up for good snorkeling. Also, unable to swim to Devil’s Hole as current was too strong. Enjoyed the chilly water and being in SXM! Left BR and went to Little Divi as I heard on TTOL that snorkeling was decent there and was hoping for really calm water. Got the calm water but bottom was too churned up for snorkeling. Nice place, we will return. Drove over to the Greenhouse for Happy Hour. Man, this a good deal. 2 for 1 drinks, half price appetizers, and free parking from 4:30- 7 everyday! This ended up being our meal for Sunday night. Strolled the boardwalk a little, drove back to Orient and turned in early.

Monday- Wind was howling again at Orient. Off to Friar’s Bay to find calm water. Set-up shop at Kali’s. Again, calm water but churned up and cloudy, visibility limited. No problem, enjoyed the sun and relaxing. Split a huge cheeseburger for lunch and let sand gravity take over. The beaches on the leeward side of Island were packed as everyone was avoiding the wind. Retired back to room for a nap and went to Mark’s Place for dinner. The food is good and plentiful at Mark’s, BUT the wait between ordering and receiving is just too long. Probably will strike this place off list.
Tuesday- FINALLY, we can go to Orient and enjoy Willie’s Happy Hour. Wind is still blowing but is manageable. We thought the water was too rough to snorkel in but when I saw a father and young son enter the water, I changed my mind. The water turned out to be crystal clear and the fish plentiful. For those who don’t know, there is a reef that runs from the rocks near Pedro’s all the way out to where the boats anchor. PLENTY of fish and coral to see. Plus, as soon as you enter the water, the fish greet you and expect to be fed. We always bring bananas and the fish will eat right from your hands. Great day at the beach and got “HAPPY” during Happy Hour. <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Banana.gif" alt="" /> Glad the room is just five minutes away and within the Village. Back to the room for a shower and nap. We enjoyed the Greenhouse so much on Sunday, we decided to go back. Got there in time for the wife to do a little shopping for the grands and then enjoyed a good meal with more drinks. Very tired by the time we got back to room.

Wednesday- Our first trip to Anguilla. Left Marigolt at 9:45 for a bumpy ride across the channel. Cleared customs in Anguilla and hired “Brodz” for our driver. “Brodz” is his nickname and he is an older gentleman who puts you to ease at once. I told him we want to go to Shoal Bay East and Gwen’s. He said that is good idea this week but would have been bad last week because of the wind. He also informs us that Gwen will not be there as her mother passed the week before. He says if Gwen’s is closed, he will take us to Uncle Ernie’s. You can feel the difference in the pace of life on Anguilla VS SXM. It is a cleaner island and the drivers are much more courteous. As we drive through The Valley, the wife spots the Post Office (she being a mail carrier) and asks Brodz to pull in so she can buy some stamps. No Problem. The wife purchases some very nice stamps and we are off the Shoal Bay East. Upon arriving, we discover Gwen’s is open and is being run by Colleen for the day. The beach is beautiful and the sand is sooo soft. The snorkeling is adequate and the reef is literally right off the beach. We enjoyed a very good lunch of chicken, ribs, pasta salad, cole slaw, and side salad. The pasta salad and cole slaw was the best we had ever eaten. We went on a long walk toward Shoal Bay after lunch as we were stuffed. After the walk, a little time in the hammocks was very enjoyable. Brodz picked us up a 3:00 as arranged and back to the Port. Made the 3:45 ferry with time to spare. While we enjoyed this excursion, it takes a lot of time and not a small sum of money to do. I can see why people stay a couple of nights on the island when they go over. It is a shame to only have a day on Anguilla. We will go again! We both had a craving for pizza and salads, so we did Pizza Galley for dinner.

Thursday- Pinel Island. Perfect timing as the wind was non-existent and NO cruise ship tour on Island. We had picked up a sub Wednesday night on the way home so we were set. Our cooler was filled with beer, water, Bahama Mamas, soft drinks, and food. We practically had the snorkeling area to ourselves all day! Water actually seemed warmer than previous days and clear down to at least thirty feet. A barracuda keep us company throughout the day. The fare over is now 5 euros or 7 dollars. The wife managed to find the grands so more gifts in the “boutique” on Pinel. After we left Pinel, we went over the hill toward the dump to see Grand Cayes. I personally would like to go back there (with a group) and try the snorkeling. There are no facilities there so you have to bring everything with you. It is definitely a locals beach. We then drove the over the hill to Anse Marcel for pictures. Man, that road is something else. Lots of work going on at the hotel. We were really tired by this time and needed a nap. We awoke famished and just decided to go to Simpson Bay and wing it. We headed to Simpson Bay via Marigolt as I like to avoid the mountain. As we passed the entrance to Princess Casino, the billboard announced a $10 Gourmet Buffet. Well, we just had to check this out. In eleven trips to SXM, we have never turned off the road into Port de Plaisance (sp) but I am glad we did this time. First off, it is beautiful back there, the wife was happy to find a casino, AND, we discovered where Peg Legs has moved to! The buffet did not start until 6:30 so we had some time to kill. Wife donated some money to the casino and I went walking. I strolled into Peg Legs and was greeted by Jim, the owner, and his wife Linda. Nice folks! They had closed down the old PL Sunday night and had been moving and building non-stop at the new PL since Monday morning. The new place is great. I believe they are in the old Surf and Turf place. It is open air and you will be able to watch your meal being prepared. Jim has plans to build an outside deck off the right as you come up the steps. Jim invited us to a private party on Friday at Peg Legs for friends and associates. I accepted and then got out of their way. Jim informed me that the buffet was indeed very good and that they had eaten there while working on the new place. The buffet is indeed very good. We were amazed at the selection available and the quality of the food. The buffet includes salad bar, entrees bar, and dessert bar. All drinks are extra. There is also a separate sushi bar located in the restaurant at an additional cost. After a very good meal, wife donated more money and I strolled the grounds. I found the French restaurant La Guinquette (sp) located on the water in the marina where there is a full a la carte menu AND a price fixe menu of $20 per person. In the casino, there is an Italian restaurant which seemed to be very pricey. As you can see, dining options abound within Port de Plaisance (sp).

Friday- Orient Beach. We had every intention of spending the day here but the weather did not cooperate. This was the only time during our stay we experienced day-time showers. It appeared to us (and many others) that the showers were headed our way. We packed up and headed to Friar’s Bay for a glorious day at the Friar’s Beach Café. Snorkeling was no good but is was a nice day. We had a really nice lunch at the café and just chilled out. Around 3:00, the rain from Orient made it over the mountains and we had to leave. On the way out, we had to share the road with a huge herd of cows that were moving from one “pasture ‘ to another. What a scene! These cows were impervious to cars and you just had to wait for them to move. NO herder was in sight and the cows just seemed to be in complete control. Great pictures of some very healthy cows. On the way to Orient, we stopped at Rancho Del Sol for their Happy Hour. What a view over Orient especially since the clouds had disappeared. Back to the room for a shower and then Peg Legs for the party. Jim and Linda provided free drinks and some finger food and there was a good turnout. Wife won some of her donations back and we again enjoyed the buffet.

Saturday- Leaving. Bruno had informed us that that we could leave when we wanted as the next guest was not due in until Sunday, late afternoon. We bid Bruno and Geraldine farewell around 10 as they were leaving for day of boating in their boat. They are both gracious hosts and we would definitely stay in Paradise Bungalows again. We left the unit around 11 as we were packed and wanted to get out. The wife wanted to see if she could win some more money back so we headed to Princess Casino. We were going to eat at Zee Best but it was slammed by the time we got there. We walked around Port de Plaisance as we had not been there in the daylight. Took some good pictures and didn’t have too worry about our stuff in the car. The casino was not open yet but things were stirring at Peg Legs. I asked Jim if they were open and he said yes, but on a limited basis. We therefore became his first paying customers at the new place. They managed to do meatless nachos, a great Caesar salad, and chicken wings for me. With a gentle breeze, sunny skies, and the marina in the background, it was a perfect lunch. We said goodbye to everyone and promised to come back in October with family and friends. We turned the phone in, met Leslie at the airport with the car, and checked-in. Check-in was a breeze as was security. We purchased some booze from upstairs and was boarding our 4:25 flight at 3:30. Smooth flight and immigration and customs was a snap. Drove home from Charlotte and got home around 1 AM.

Impressions: The Island was very green due to the recent rainfall. The drivers really like to tailgate so I just adjust mirrors as not to be annoyed. Building is going on everywhere. As you drive by Kooeyman’s (sp) look at all the rebar and concrete wire in their yard. There is a new place at the turn to Cul de Sac which is overflowing with construction material as well. SXM Immigration agents are about as sour a bunch of people as I have ever encountered. Restroom facilities at arrival terminal are grossly inadequate and poorly maintained. Lots of cars but planning your travel helps a lot. Prices up everywhere but that is to be expected. We met a lot of Canadians during the week. We thoroughly enjoyed staying on the French side and will do it again. Counting down to October.


"All of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean...And when we go back to the sea...we are going back from whence we came."
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