Trip Report June 20-30

This is an abbreviated trip report compared to my past ones as I did not write anything down (even though I took a laptop) and too many brain cells were destroyed during the 10 day period to remember everything! I will categorize so you can skip to the bits that you may be interested in...

This was our 17th trip to St. Martin in as many years.

FLIGHTS
Flew Delta from Buffalo to Atlanta to St. Martin and USAir from St. Martin to Charlotte to Buffalo. All flights were on time and no problem making connections. This may not seem unusual but we are Canadians and this is the first time flying through the US from Buffalo (less than an hour away). Normally we fly from Toronto, however, prices were very high for air only...if we could get a flight due to the time of year! We saved more than 50% off what we usually pay and by booking for 10 days and flying on week days (Friday to Monday) we saved even more money. 10 days for less money...NO BRAINER!!! We did prefer the Delta flights over USAir as the aircraft were more modern and slightly better service, however, no complaints about either.

We also went with carry-on, which was a new experience for us. “Herladyship” was concerned at first, however we were just fine and even brought home unworn clothing... yeah, I know, staying at Club O. I love snorkeling and “Herladyship” bought me a pair of travel fins which fit nicely into my back pack along with my mask and snorkel.

HOTEL
This was our 6th stay at Club Orient. “Herladyship” loves the mini-suites (#139 this year) and although a slight walk to the beach, we found it good to work off some calories. Improvements we noticed at Club O is a telephone in the room, internet hook-up (slow but still quite functional) and the upgrading of Papagayo by covering the deck and adding gazebo type covers over the benches by the wall. Initially we did not like the structural change at Orientique, the area is more open but they seemed to have a reasonable amount of stock and you could get all the basics required.

CAR RENTAL
We have used Triple A for more than 10 years. We were met at the airport and whisked to the “office” where Myra did the paper work and we were off! The only problem was the car was nearly new! Only 4,600 kilometers and no damage...hey I asked for dents! Although the car was very nice it was most certainly powered by HAMSTERS and not horses! We did however survive the 10 days with no damage. We spent about $55 on gas the entire trip and did use the car daily. Best place to buy gas is the CADISCO station between Orient and Cul de Sac. They do take Euro and Dollar at par...which can be a bit of a myth at the restaurants!

WEATHER AND BEACH
Generally the weather was hot but overcast with some rain squalls. The wind was RELENTLESS! The most we have seen in many years, even at night, it just never let up! This of course made the water choppy and snorkeling was not good (Orient and Tintemarre) due to the bottom being kicked up. Even just paddling around the occasional wave would wash over you if you were not observant! One day they would not put up umbrellas past the mid point of the beach down to the Perch because of the strong winds, so if you wanted your umbrella, you would have to move closer to Papagayo. Lots of sand on Orient, however, 5 years could disappear over night and would be washed in again later.

WHERE WE ATE
(“Foodies” can skip this part)
Breakfasts we ate in our room supplemented by croissants from Orientique, except for the first day at Baywatch which is our traditional kick-off breakfast.
Lunches were either in our mini-suite or at Baywatch...why go anywhere else!
Everything that can be said about Baywatch has been said many times over. The food is absolutely outstanding, but the best part is being greeted as old friends by Cheryl, Adian, Ross and of course wise-cracking Andy! New waiter Shawn seems to be a good fit into the crew.
We did stop at Ric’s Place twice (one of our old haunts)...once on our way to pick up friends Jim and Carmen at the airport and once on the way to get our flight home. Wonderful burgers!

Dinners were largely in Grand Case.
One of our favourties has been Les Brasseries des Iles (Le Pub), they have outstanding Tagliatelle Carbonnara and their food portions are huge. The first night on the island we attempted to go there, there were 5 of us. We arrived just before 6. The waitress greeted us at the door and explained that the kitchen does not open until 6:30. They essentially let us walk away rather than saying the bar was open and come on in and have a drink. ???
We ended up going across the street to The Sky’s The Limit lolos. 5 of us had the usual lolo’s fare for a grand total of $44!...I did notice that Talk of the Town Too was open but there were no customers there, the reason would be answered later.

Second night (Saturday) we also attempted to go to LePub...there were now 11 of us...it was explained that they were only open to feed the Gendarmes...I was once again denied my Carbonnara! We stopped at Blue Martini where the Manager (Owner?) and waiter explained that although they do charge a rate of 1 to 1:40 the first round of drinks would be on the house. Can’t remember what everyone had but “Herladyship” and I both ordered the carbonnara...we were served Boulognaise...denied my carbonnara twice in one night! However, they do have Leffe beer on tap...one of my favourites! The total bill was reasonable even with the exchange and the food very good.
On a side note, as we were finishing dinner we heard this pounding noise coming down Grand Case Boulevard. It was a drum corps of about 12 drummers marching down the street. The ladies in our party immediately went out and started following the band and dancing to the rythmn...I immediately had visions of the Pied Piper leading them to a jewellery store!...my panic was short-lived as I remembered there were no jewellery stores in Grand Case...are there??? There was also a band set up across from Talk of the Town Too.

Talk of the Town Too...in the past this has been my favourite lolo. On the menu it said 1 Euro = $1.45 but we stayed anyway. We had standard fare of Ribs, Chicken and Peas and Rice with a couple of beers. When presented with the bill it was $43!!!! I understand about exchange rates, however, when a place about 50 feet away (The Sky’s the Limit) charged us $44 for 5 people for comparable items, something is strange. We ate at The Sky’s the Limit on one more occasion during our stay and again were offered dollar at par.

Papagayo. We had dinner at Papagayo one evening after some of our friends came off the Tiko Tiko cruise...read no one capable of travelling here... especially as we were now in the middle of the Manager’s Wine and Cheese party. “Herladyship” and I both ordered tagliatelle carbonnara as we had previously been denied. Service was good and the price about $18.00, however the carbonnara was just OK.

Repaire du Pirate. I had 2 days previously made reservations for about 18-22 people, just to give them some warning. On the evening in question about 25 of our “group” showed up. We even did our own BYOP (bring your own pirate). I won’t mention Frank’s name here due to possible pending litigation! “Pirate” only has a small galley kitchen and we were cautioned that serving that many meals could take some time. The chef in the kitchen worked ferverishly for 3 hours as did our waitress Tithia. Even Marcel the owner was put to work. For a really unique experience it is hard to beat Repaire du Pirate. Check out the bathroom!!!

Peg Leg Pub. 11 of us decended up Peg Leg Pub and were of course greeted by Shawn who was at his most expansive, welcoming everyone and of course hugging the ladies. Of course the decor has changed with some of the old Peg Leg still surviving but a very nice spot and of course the parking is much better...you can actually get a space. Entrees were around $20 + and the service good. “Herladyship” ordered a Chicken kabob and I had Shrimp kabob, there were two kabobs per order so we traded one. My only disappointment is that they did not have draught beer. I am sure it was because of the recent move...soon com mon!

Poulet d’Orleans. Again 11 of us descended upon Poulet d’Orleans (reservations had been made for 6). We were greeted graciously by young Christian (brother-in-law of Adrian from Baywatch) who explained regretfully that they did not have any chicken. A chicken place with no chicken...at this point the “Cheese Shop” sketch from Monty Python came to mind. However, I think everyone found reasonable substitutes for chicken and the food was excellent. Definately a place to return to for some local flavour.

Les Brasseries des Iles (Le Pub). Finally they are open. We love this place and have been many times before and know what to expect, it is largely patronized by local French and of course the gendarmes. Even the sign outside announcing 1 Euro = $1.50 did not deter us. The portions here are huge and we know to split an order. Finally we got to order our tagliatelle carbonnara (this is the best I have ever had and I am not a pasta fan). “Herladyship” had a glass of wine and I had a beer and we split the carbonnara which was delivered on a large, almost overflowing, platter. Here’s where the 1:1 myth explodes for us. The entree was 13 euro but more than enough food for 2. The total bill with drinks was $26.

Spiga. This was a new one for us. We were headed for Bleu Martini in Grand Case but found it closed so Spiga was decided on because everywhere we had been so far was a repeat of other years. What a wonderful place. Although priced in Euro they do offer US at par for cash. This was probably the most high-end restaurant we ate at during our 10 days and the food and service was wonderful. “Herladyship” had braised beef and I had shrimp linguini (largest shrimp I have ever seen). Can’t remember what Jim and Carmen had but the total bill was around $100 for 4. (Note: we did not order appetizers or desserts).

CASINOS
Princess at Port de Plaisance, Dolphin and Paradise. Did not visit as many casinos this trip as we usually do however, we did come out slightly ahead...very slightly...about $100, but certainly better than losing.

SHOPPING
Shopping was limited this trip as we were doing the “carry on” thing. However, with three grandchildren gifts are a must. Went to Rimas for the mandatory t-shirts, hats and sun dress to take home for kiddies.
DK Gems - Here’s the story. Purchased a set of earring for “Herladyship” last year from DK. Later in the year she lost one. I felt so bad for her that I bought her a cheaper replacement pair and made a gift certificate for DK so that she could replace them when we got to the island. Later that year one of the replacements went missing, however, the lost “original” turned up and then the “missing “replacement” was found . For some reason the “gift certificate” had to be honoured so a trip to DK was still on (someone please explain this to me!). She managed to find a lovely pair after looking at innumberable trays. As the salesman there said, “This is not a jewellery store...it is a ladies candy store”! She also brought in a ring she purchased there two years ago in which she had lost one of the small diamonds...this was repaired at no cost. While we were there Deepti came in and we had a nice conversation about local affairs and of course the best place to purchase gas.
A great place to shop...even though my credit card was curling up from the heat!
We also went to Marigot to the market on a Saturday, but it was very slow and we even managed to get a parking place in the main lot. Phillipsburg also seemed to be slow on Saturday, probably due to no crusie ships and also a departure/arrival day for many tourists.

TIKO TIKO
This was our 9th trip on the Tiko Tiko but we had not been for the past 2 years so had not been on the new boat. There were 11 of us altogether in the all-together! It was not a rowdy group but a very pleasant and congenial one. It was very hot as usual and we spent the whole afternoon in the water. One couple in the group, Rex and Kerri, were going to be married on the Dutch side two days later. However, “Herladyship” decided...after a multitude of rum punches... that there was no need for them to wait that long and that she would marry them right then and there in the water, after all she knew the ceremony because he had four sisters whose weddings she had attended, some of them two or three times! It was great fun and a lot of laughs. Of course we did the mud bath and took the standard photos, not easy with muddy hands. Phillipe and his first made Chia (sp) did their standard wonderful job. Still the best day off the island. When we arrived back at Orient there was some delay in loading the inflatable so I decided to make the swim to shore....Hey, happy hour at Papagayo starts at 5!!!

OBSERVATIONS

We noticed a different “feel” to the island this year. I really can’t describe it and the only word I can come up with is “indifference” in some of the places. Don’t know if this is due to the slower economy.

There were more security guards and police than I have seen before. Most of the security guards actually looked like they could do something if need be, not the usual “attendants”.

Although there was a lot of rubble, which I believe is due to the amount of construction going on, the litter for the most part was cleaned up and we saw crews out doing this. There were years in the past where the island was littered with water bottles, etc.

THE BEST PART

The best part are the friends old and new that we meet in St. Martin. Jim and Carmen, Ron, Beth and Becky, Frank and Anna, Bill and Linda and the Avalon “gang”, you guys are the best! The folks and crew on the Tiko Tiko and of course Andy and Cheryl and their crew who always make us feel at “home”. Of course there are also the people that we strike up casual conversations with along the way.

The laptop was worth bringing for us as “herladyship” enjoyed keeping in contact with family and dog sitter via e-mail at home. We also were able to listen to the local radio station on live streaming and she enjoyed the music I loaded in iTunes...now she wants and iPod!

Sorry, got a little long-winded, must be recovering some brain cells! <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Cheers.gif" alt="" />

Next year soon come mon!

John and Toddy (“herladyship”) <img src="http://www.traveltalkonline.com/forums/images/graemlins/Umbrella.gif" alt="" />