Overview
Below are all the details, comprised of a series of daily facebook updates done early each morning. The summary is: -
- Crew of 5, on our 4th trip to the islands. I am the captain, but virtually all of my experience (outside of classes/certification) is in the BVI, so I'm basically a CCC.
- We chartered Glissade out of SailTMM, a 2-cabin, and made use of the salon berth. Glissade is almost brand new, and is very well equipped. We enjoyed her very much (though a few minor gripes). Message me if you want to know more.
- SailTMM were terrific as ever - efficient, responsive and helpful on the call-outs, and generally great service. We are repeat customers and will keep going back.
- Itinerary was a fairly standard counter-clockwise: Marina Cay - Leverick - Anegada - Scrub Island - Diamond Cay - Great Harbour - Norman Island.
- Photos are here - hope you can access them -
facebook - Overall, a fabulous trip - can't want to get back!
- Enjoy!
The Gory details
Day 1: Good morning from Marina Cay, BVI! Yesterday was forecast to be a rain-out, so expectations were not that high. However we were up early and over to the marina to board Glissade (our ride for the week) and start the long check-in and provisioning process. Sam and I did the check-in while the girls took care of all the food and booze that arrived, and did a quick supermarket run. Just after lunch we headed out for our check-out sail with the marina skipper. This is where we have to demonstrate our competence and capability to take this expensive yacht out for the week. Sam fell overboard. Not a little slip and a tumble, but a full backflip into the ocean after pulling too hard on a rope that offered little resistance. We got him back in, and completed our test sail before heading back to the marina to drop off the skipper and head out again. Then it was decision time - left or right? By now it was clear that the weather was ok - the sun was out and the winds good, so we headed upwind and to port. Had a nice sail (single-reefed) in good winds up the Drake channel. The music was on, the drink was flowing and life was good. Put in a few tacks heading-up and then motored into Marina Cay to grab a ball for the night. Headed ashore for drinks, live music and some photos (very pretty here), then back to the boat to grill dinner. Chilled out evening on the boat, with everyone feeling tired. Slightly disturbed night, with a couple of rain showers coming through, then up to enjoy morning coffee, sunshine and the wonderful view. Off to Virgin Gorda today hopefully.
Day 2: Good morning from Leverick Bay. Up and off the ball early yesterday - the plan was to get to The Baths (on Virgin Gorda) early - this is probably the most popular visitor spot in the BVI, and it fills up fast. However events would take a different turn. We were motoring straight into the wind in heavy seas, with the dinghy bouncing around at the back, and we noticed that it was deflating fast - looked like a puncture - bad news. I called the marina, hoping that they wouldn't call up back to the base (which would have set us back a day and totally limited our plans). Initially they did, but after a bit of discussion they sent us to Spanishtown on VG instead, where their local guy would meet us and make the repair. Docked there, breakfast, then taxi to The Baths while the repair took place. The Baths was very busy - cruise ship day - but still as wonderful as ever. Another drama when we realized a purse was missing - cash, credit card etc - and some panicked searching on the beach, before some kind soul turned it in at the bar for us to find. Taxi back for lunch, repair complete, then out again for the 2-hour sail up to Leverick Bay in Virgin Gouda North Sound. Safely docked then into the bar for Happy hour. Quick chill, snack and freshen up on the boat, and then back ashore for dinner. By 9 pm the tiredness kicks in and by 9:30pm the college kids are heading for bed - kids today! Comfortable night on A/C. Quick yomp up the hill this morning to check out the fabulous views. Heading out to Anegada soon ..
Day 3: Good morning from The Setting Point, Anegada, BVI. One of the highlights of this trip for me is always the run to Anegada. It's the most remote and under-developed of the inhabited islands, with a lovely "lost in paradise" feel to it. It's also the best sail - 14 or so miles of open-water with nice winds from the starboard, and the island slowly comes into view as you approach. We headed out of Virgin Gorda North Sound, sails up, and made the crossing in a glorious couple of hours. Carefully chugged into the mooring field (shallow here) and snagged one on the last remaining balls - quite busy here today. Quick lunch, then grabbed a car to go exploring. First to Loblolly Bay for some beach time - almost deserted stretch of white sand. Swam out to the reef for snorkeling - excellent stuff - sea turtle, some 3-ft fish and a ton of smaller reef fish. Late afternoon we tried the north road to Cow Wreck (for a look at the salt marsh), but it was not in good shape, so we beat a retreat back to the pavement and took the long way round. Cow Wreck was as relaxed as ever, and we met some cool people there as usual. Rum punches and Conch fritters all round. The girls did some yoga on the beach - rum partly to blame. Dropped the car off then headed back to grill steak dinner on the boat. Managed to all stay awake (just!) past 10:00pm thanks to Cards Against Humanity. Late night cup of tea, then a good nights sleep (at least as good as it gets for me out here). Now enjoying morning coffee and the view of the anchorage. Life is good.
Day 4: Good morning from Scrub Island, BVI. Started yesterday like all others - coffee on the deck, check the weather forecast and plan the day, including the sail. There's so much to remember to do in the whole sailing process that I started on some checklists - pre-departure, once underway, ready for docking etc. It seems like I need to add a new item to the pre-departure checklist called "retrieve important items from ocean floor" - fortunately we were only in 10 feet of water, so it was easily checked-off. Otherwise a relaxed morning, and we set sail just before 10:00am for the 16 mile sail to Scrub Island. Ocean and wind conditions were favorable, and with the wind over my left shoulder I could set the sails, turn on the auto-pilot and enjoy the ride. Was lucky enough to catch glimpse of a large Ray (maybe 5 foot span) leaping above the water. The crew dozed, chatted and drank, the music was chill and it was a terrific morning. Arrived at Scrub at lunchtime and docked. This is the resort hotel in the islands, and a chance to enjoy some creature comforts, like great showers, infinity pool, hot tub and swim-up bar. Spent the afternoon doing just that, carefully keeping the alcohol levels topped up, and again meeting some really interesting people. Took the water taxi over to Trellis Bay and went to The Loose Mongoose for happy hour and dinner, before heading back to the boat to round of the day with tea and cards. Managed to stay up until 10:30pm - party animals! Jost Van Dyke today.
Day 5: Good morning from Diamond Cay. I've said many times that you have to be ready for anything on this trip, and yesterday showed this again. However one thing that has played well is the weather. The BVI has had an unsettled few weeks, and the forecast for us going in was not too good, with lots of rain expected, some of it prolonged. However we've seen almost none of it. We did finally get caught while out on our walk around Scrub Island in the morning, and had to hustle back to the boat and wait it out, which set us back an hour or so. Once we got out on the water to head for Jost van Dyke, there wasn't enough wind to get the sails up, so we started to motor down. A few minutes in a boat alarm went off indicating a battery problem on both engines. I walked around the boat looking for problems and turning things off, but it kept coming back. Called the marina and changed course to meet a mechanic at Cane Garden Bay on Tortola. Got there at lunchtime, by which time we'd figured out that the problem was too much charge voltage (not too little) and that turning things on (we cranked up the audio) made it go away. We eventually got enough wind to sail the last part and turn the motors right down, and the alarm stopped. Grilled lunch and worked on my dinghy flip in CBG, and generally chilled out. Mechanic came and went, and confirmed our diagnosis and workaround - said he'd root cause it after our trip. After that chugged over to Sandy Cay. When we first saw this place 4 years ago we instantly fell in love with it, and the feeling has not changed - an idyllic desert island only accessible by private boat. Went ashore for a while and took photographs, including "the jump", a bit of a tradition for us! Then chugged into Diamond Cay (JVD) for the night. We didn't see the usual turtles here, but are looking out this morning. Quick trip to Foxy's Taboo for Happy Hour, but there was nothing going on but mosquitos! Back to the boat to cook, shower, drink, eat and chill, then played cards into the night. I slept well. Now looking out for turtles and planning today!
Day 6: Good morning from Great Harbour, JVD! Yesterday was a quintessential BVI day - blue sky, cool breeze, sun, sailing, sand and chilling. We awoke in the beautiful Diamond Cay and enjoyed the morning sun. I took a quick walk around to the Bubbly Pool - it wasn't super bubbly, but looked so tempting that I had to go in, even though I wasn't wearing swim shorts. However, there was nobody else around, so I stripped to my underwear and went in to enjoy the waves and bubbles. Of course then a large group showed up. A little embarrassing, but they were cool, even if they did see more than they bargained for when I changed back into my shorts. Walked back commando-style. We hung out on the boat for a while, eating breakfast, sunbathing and trying to catch up with the turtles. Late morning we sailed over to White Bay - motoring would have been quicker, but it was a beautiful day, I wanted to get the sails up, and we were in no hurry. There were no open mooring balls at White Bay, and I didn't fancy the anchor, so we chugged around to Great Harbour to get a ball for the night. Grilled lunch and swam of the boat, keeping the relaxed vibe going. In the afternoon we dinghy'd around to White Bay for the obligatory stops at the Soggy Dollar Bar (very busy) and Ivan's Stress Free bar (much more chilled). Hung out in the water. The girls talked me into attempting a headstand - it did not go well. Dinghy'd back to the boat and the girls nailed the Dinghy flip! Showers, more drinks then ashore. Dinner at Ali Baba's, then rounded the day off with drinks and a dance at Foxy's. Not the best night's sleep - very little breeze, so the cabins get hot and stuffy - but feeling good for our last full day.
Day 7: Good morning from The Bight, Norman Island! Yesterday was our last full day, and the morning did not go to plan. We had booked a SCUBA dive for Hattie at JVD, and duly arrived and checked in at the dive shop - she and the dive leader even remembered each other from her last dive there 2 years ago! However they couldn't get the dive boat started - engine trouble - so we had to abandon. Tried to shop a little in Great Harbour, but nothing was open. After a quick breakfast the kids dinghy'd around to the Soggy Dollar Bar to pick up merchandise while Paula and I walked up the road (steep!) to enjoy the view and take photos. Back to the boat and I tried once again to catch up with one of the nearby turtles, but again they eluded me! Did the usual pre-sail checks (including, once again, retrieval of important objects from the ocean floor) and then we were off for an exciting sail in sporty winds over to Norman Island. It's mostly upwind, so took a few hours, and we honed our tacking skills along the way. Headed in to The Caves for snorkeling - really good - and ate and drank on the boat, with the whole crew in high spirits. Chugged around and took a ball for the night in The Bight, and kept the mood going as we finished up the last of the liquor. A quick trip ashore for shopping, then the Galley Goddess went into use-up mode, rustling up a lovely dinner with what food we had left. Watched the sunset while we finished up the last of the wine and beer. Late evening we went over to the Willie-T - infamous BVI party boat. We've always been a bit disappointed with this in the past - not much going on - but last night there was a good party crowd in and the place was bumping! Hit the dance floor and met some great people - we even did a family shot-ski! Headed back to the boat for the last rites of the day. Good, breezy, night's sleep, and now sat on the deck enjoying morning coffee and contemplating the journey home.
Post-script: Good morning from Raleigh, NC. Man it was good to sleep in a proper bed last night! Much as I love the sailing, it is not 4-star luxury all the time. Early breakfast yesterday, and started to pack and organize before leaving The Bight. Chugged out just before 8am for the short, easy sail back to Road Town. This is always a bittersweet moment - obviously it signals the end of the journey, but in some ways it's my favorite sail of the week - knowing it's the last chance to do this for a while, you savor every moment, drink in the scenery, and reflect upon the adventures of the week - wonderful! Except that we sailed to the wrong place. An over-confident captain eye-balled the distant masts on Tortola without checking the charts, and we ended up at Sea Cow Bay instead of Road Town. Thankfully I realized my error before going in, but the outcome was that our journey ended with a short, uncomfortable, upwind motor, just as a rain shower came through (the only on-the-water shower of the week). It also put us a few minutes behind schedule, so we had to hustle through the fuel dock and then into the marina for check-out. This was the usual frenzy of activity, as you clear out and clean the boat, and get organized for the journey home. A 30-minute white-knuckle taxi ride to the airport later, we were on our way home. It was cool to see from the air some of the places we had visited on the flight out of Tortola. A short delay made for a very exciting connection in San Juan, where we had to be escorted and fast-tracked through the process to just make our flight - great job AA! The rest of the journey was calm and undramatic - just how I like it. Back to work today - I'm already a couple of hours into e-mails and will be playing catch-up all day long. On the plus-side, I probably won't bang my head or stub my toe on anything hard and unforgiving, and will be sustained all day (and beyond) by a ton of happy thoughts and memories. Over and out - thank you for following!
