Thank you to all contributors for the advice you gave me prior to my trip.
January 16 - 23
Saturday, Jet Blue flights were very smooth and on time all the way into St. Maarten. We arrived at 2:40 or 3:40 local time. It was sunny, hot and tropical. All ten of us changed our clothes in the restroom before heading for rental cars.
Our Ford Explorer rented from Unity ($528 per week) included liability insurance. Unity was at the airport and quickly whisked us off to their rental lot to claim the vehicle. We also rented a phone from Michael for $28. The phone with one card lasted all week as we only used it for a few local calls. I would recommend a phone as it comes in handy. Our friends rented a Toyota Corolla from Budget ($246) and found it to be satisfactory.
By 5 o’clock we were at Billy Folly Road 78 at Ocean Paradise, the villa we rented for the week ($7,500). The villa was relatively new construction and a 5,000 square foot, three story home beautifully appointed with marble on the walls and floors throughout. We had a welcome gift of fruit, cheese, bread and wine. The villa is advertised as a five bedroom. Four of the bedrooms are very large and luxurious, but the fifth bedroom is very small in comparison to the others. Four have a wonderful view of the ocean from balconies and the small bedroom is facing the street with traffic noise. The small bedroom also shares a bathroom with one of the large bedrooms. The small bedroom has a queen size bed and a crib only with no closet or dresser for clothes storage. The only issue with sharing was there are no doors on the bathrooms or on the showers, so there is no privacy whatsoever which can be problematic if four adults are trying to share one bathroom. The kitchen had great Bosch appliances including gas stove, dishwasher and side by side fridge with ice maker. The ice maker couldn’t begin to keep up with our needs, but we purchased ice daily, no problem. We enjoyed having the washer and dryer to do laundry throughout the week. Soap and fabric softener was supplied. The air conditioning was very good throughout the house. The small and large adjoining bedrooms were on the same A/C control, so either the large bedroom was warm or the small bedroom was too cold, but we easily remedied that with an open window. Outside was a large pool with a waterfall and walk in steps. The pool area had a large outdoor dining area with six comfortable chairs and four lounge chairs. The pool also had a large two-person float. The only derogatory issue outside was the Jacuzzi which didn’t work all week. We called from day one for repairs, but no one came until Thursday and even then didn’t fix it, so no Jacuzzi all week because of an apparent electrical problem. The BBQ grill was out of gas when we attempted to use it on Tuesday but it was refilled on Thursday. I would probably be remiss if I didn’t mention the hot water, or lack thereof. After about two showers the hot water ran out every day. It appears hot water is generated by solar panels on the roof. Daily someone in our party was taking a cold shower. We spoke to the manager, but was told that this issue was voiced often by other tenants as well. The bathrooms had lots of towels and beach towels, but no hand towels or face clothes. We had to ask for them to be delivered. Wednesday we did get face clothes, but never did see hand towels. We felt very safe a secure in the gated villa. The maid service came three times during the week and provided prompt courteous service. On the second floor balcony was two chairs and on the third floor balcony was a double bed. One of our party decided to sleep outdoors one night but was driven inside by the bugs. The bed was enjoyable, however, to read and nap outside during the day. I have rented houses for vacation before and this one was one of the better but also one of the more expensive. A note to those with children, there are 34 stairs to climb to the third floor and the marble floors and stairs are very slippery when wet from the pool. There are always small issues with rentals, but you must learn to overcome them and enjoy your vacation. I would rate this place an 8 out of 10.
Our first night we dined at the Greenhouse on Billy Folly. It was happy hour which meant two drinks for the price of one and half price appetizers. Francesca was our waitress and she did a great job. The food was plentiful and the drinks were flavorful. Dinner was excellent and we made our way back to the villa after a long day. (drinks, appetizer and meal for two $90)
Unfortunately we woke up Sunday to howling wind and rain, but it was still warm and tropical. We made our way down to ZeeBest on Welfare Road for breakfast. My banana French toast was good, but rather small made with one croissant cut in half. The rest of my party had eggs Benedict and bacon and eggs and everyone was satisfied with their meal. We did eat under the canopy outside and unfortunately we must have been close to some sewer piping because all during breakfast we could smell a strong scent of sewer. I am not sure if this restaurant experiences this all the time, but we decided not to go back and find out. Breakfast averaged $30 per couple.
The clouds stayed throughout the day. We went to a grocery store on Welfare Street whose name I don’t recall, but I would not recommend it. I would strongly suggest you travel to the Grand Marche either on Union or over the hill. Both are about 20 minutes from Billy Folly and have significantly higher quality products. Prices are slightly higher than in the US, but very good brand names and quality. We shopped at Grand Marche the remainder of the week when we wanted a lot of supplies. When we just needed a couple of items we went to the little oriental market across from the Greenhouse on Billy Folley. The family that runs/owns it was very nice and accommodating; the prices are also very good.
I must take a moment to mention the streets in St. Maarten. This was my first time to stay for an entire week. Previously I visited twice by cruise ship. Anyway, the streets are in rough shape. It’s no wonder the cars show major wear and tear. Streets are narrow, windy and filled with speed bumps and pot holes. We got used to it after a day or so, but you just need to be cautious when driving. We did not experience much of a delay in traffic as reported in many blogs and chat rooms. After finding out what time the draw bridges went up, we avoided being out at that time and made out just fine.
So back to Sunday. After picking up some groceries we decided to explore as it was still raining off and on and windy. We headed toward Margot and ended up at Orient beach where we decided to walk the beach despite the weather. It was practically empty. We stopped at Waikiki beach bar. While the drinks were tasty, they were very expensive. We continued our circle around the island and back to Simpson Bay with no other stops. Pineapple Pete’s was our dining experience for the evening. It was not busy either. I had coconut shrimp and my husband had his usual, steak. Both meals were satisfying and service was very good. ($60 per couple) I had read about happy hour specials, but they didn’t have any and we were there early.
Monday we awoke once again to clouds. This was unexpected as we thought there would be more sun on our trip. But the weather didn’t deter us. Off we went to SkipJacks where we met Captain Neil Roebert and his first mate Leeza. Our adventure started at 8:00 a.m. and lasted until 5:30. We had a private charter for ten on the catamaran Celine. As soon as we boarded we had a great breakfast which included fresh pastries, warm walnut bread, cereals, yogurt, quiche and juices and coffee. The food was plentiful and delicious. Our tailored trip started with setting a couple of lines for some fishing so we went out from the shore aways. The swells in the water became quite high so it was an adventure for sure. We felt like we had our own private water park complete with roller coaster. Close to shore the water was much calmer. After fishing a while we went to Bay Rouge which is a beautiful area. The Celine was docked about 250’ from shore and we had the option of swimming in or using the dingy. Some of us swam and some went by boat. We were offered snorkeling equipment and swimming noodles. Leeza even put out a floating bar in the water for us while we swam. The snorkeling was mediocre. We did see fish, but no big schools of fish or underwater corals. The waves on the shore of Bay Rouge have quite an undertow and it was a lot of fun body surfing with the waves. After about an hour of fun we swam back to the catamaran and were served a fantastic meal. It was as great as any restaurant on the whole trip and consisted of blackened mahi mahi, a spicy shrimp and rice dish, a chicken and mushroom dish and five salads that were all delicious. Wine was offered with the meal and mixed drinks were also offered all day long. Our tour guides showed us where celebrity homes were and offered history of the area. After lunch the sun finally started to show through a little and we headed off to Happy Bay for mud baths. We found this small beach to be virtually unoccupied except for us. One side of the beach had an old military base and the other side an abandoned resort which made the beach quite secluded. There were cows roaming around behind the beach. We swam for a while and went back to the boat where another beautiful tray of fresh fruit was arranged with chocolate dipping sauce. We headed back to the marina around 5 as we watched the setting sun. At the draw bridge a final fun frozen drink was served. I would highly recommend this excursion ($115 per person plus tip)
That evening we went to Buckaneers on Billy Folly which is a beach bar. We found out we were to seat ourselves. The tables were about two thirds full. After 15 minutes and no service the table next to us said they had been waiting for their food for 45 minutes and had heard nothing from the waitress. After looking further, it appeared one waitress was serving all tables. We were hungry and didn’t wish to wait, so we left and went next door to the Greenhouse were we enjoyed another great meal with Francesca. After our meal was served in walked the people from the other table at Buckaneers. They ended up eating at the Greenhouse also. So even though there are some great reviews out there for this beach bar, our experience was bad.
Tuesday was Orient Beach day. We found it to be more expensive than expected. Waikiki wanted $40 for one chair, plus $5 for an umbrella. I don’t even know if that was US dollars or Euros, but it was too much. Our party of ten moved down the beach to Coco Loco and paid $24 for two chairs, a table and an umbrella. They served us very well throughout the day with drinks and meals. The boys parasailed and had a great time $28 pp for a tandem ride. The waitress at Coco Loco beach bar gave us shots of homemade banana rum which was sweet and tasty.
Wednesday morning we found the French bakery La Sucriere on Welfare Road and it was fantastic. We purchased pastries the rest of the week!
We relaxed and swam on our own beach at the villa most of the day. That evening we went to Peg Leg’s Steakhouse because of the good reviews we had read. We entered quite early at 6 and the place was empty, but it was just in time for happy hour which was half price appetizers and a buck or so off a drink. The drinks and food was top notch. The best part of our night was the waiter, Sean. He really made the evening a lot of fun. The meals were so good we would definitely recommend it and go back.($100 per couple) Afterward, we stopped in to the Princess Casino even though we don’t gamble generally. I came out ahead so that was good.
The night ended at the Red Piano Bar back at Billy Folly which was another fun place.
Thursday was another rainy day. I bet we had more than a dozen rain showers. Most lasted about 5 minutes, but nevertheless it made for a wet, humid day. We headed to Philipsburg for some shopping. We purchased the regular touristy items between showers. I was really surprised how empty the city was with six cruise ships in. That evening we went to SkipJacks for dinner. None of us thought the staff was very welcoming or friendly. I had a chicken Caesar salad and it had no parmesan cheese on it. The waiter never did come back to ask how everything was so I ate it plain. ($80 for two salads and four drinks) I probably wouldn’t recommend this restaurant.
Friday was a great day – Extreme Zip line at Loterie Farm and Nature Conservancy on the French side of the island started off the day. We arrived at 10 a.m., just in time for the bus to leave for the first two hour trip of the day. What a ride to say the least. There are about 12 zip lines and several ropes, cables and suspended bridges. One zip line is 1200 feet long. After you are taken to the top of the mountain by truck you start your trek down. We had never zip lined before and most of us are mid 40s to early 50s. It was taxing, but very exciting and I would definitely recommend it. ($80 pp)
At the bottom of the mountain were many lush plants, flowers and butterflies, though I didn’t get to experience them to the extent I would like. We were very hot and ready for a rest after our zip line adventure.
We wanted to fit in the Sunset Bar and Grill during our trip, so after cleaning up from the zip line we headed over to watch planes for the afternoon. The Air France plane came in just after we arrived. The entire afternoon was great with people watching and plane watching.
That evening we ordered a custom barbeque take out meal from Bonita Cantina with ribs, chicken, pulled pork, mashed potato, gravy and cole slaw. Bryan the owner was very accommodating and it was nice just to eat by our own pool after a long day of fun in the sun. ($14 pp)
Friday evening ended with a walk by the ocean and a beautiful moon shining on the surf.
Saturday was our last day and travel days are never fun. We ate just up the street at Alexander’s and had a nice breakfast and then finished packing up. After reading some blogs we decided to go to the airport and check in at noon and then enjoy a couple of last hours at the island. Jet Blue was no problem checking our luggage early for a 4:30 flight. So that was a breeze and we left and had some lunch. Returning the vehicle to Unity was no issues at 2:00 and they promptly returned us to the airport for security. That’s where the delays started. We stood in line 30 minutes for the first checkpoint to show our passports to I believe immigrations. They we were another 20 minutes or more through TSA security. We headed down to one of the lower gates where there is no air conditioning and waited. As time came to board we learned there was a second security check and five out of our ten party was in the second check including me. This was very time consuming and held up the plane. Each person was patted down and carry ons were opened and reviewed. Hats had to come off and all pockets emptied. The gate next to us was experiencing the same thing on American Airlines. So the flight that was supposed to leave at 4:30 was now still on the ground waiting for people at 4:45. Once the door was closed the captain announced a further delay due to headwinds all the way home. We were due at JFK at 7:30 and were informed at that time we would be getting in around 9. That time ended up being 9:15 and our connecting flight was at 9:45. Because this was an international flight we had to go through immigrations, then get all of our checked luggage, then go through customs, then head on the tram to a terminal far away while carrying all luggage. Once we ran and reached that terminal we had to go through security again and recheck our luggage. By this time is was past our flight time, but we also knew there were about 20 people due on that flight. TSA told us we had to once again go through the secondary check where we were patted down and our carry ones were scrutinized. Finally we did get on the plane and even though it was late we made it home at 12:30 a.m. Did I say I hate travel days?
Since I have read quite a bit about this, I’ll comment on liquor at the airport. We decided not to purchase any, but our friends did. Once they got to JFK it was a pain to open the luggage and repack it securely, especially since we were literally running to catch the next plane. I didn’t think it was worth saving $20. I would recommend purchasing it on the island and packing it well before departing to the airport if you wish to take any home.
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