This report is in 2 parts - a summary with the key takeaways, then the gory details (drawn from daily facebook updates) for those that have the time. Enjoy!
Summary- We were a crew of 8 - 4 adults and 4 teens (16/18) on a 7-day charter. Half were first-timers, while the rest had 1 previous week (last year) in BVI.
- We chartered Caribbean Spirit from SailTMM, a 4-cabin 40-ft cat. Caribbean Spirit is at the value end of the scale within the TMM fleet - an older boat that lacks some of the luxury feel you get on the newer boats. That said, I think she's a good deal. We had a few minor squawks, but ultimately did not make a single maintenance call to the marina all week, and everything worked well. I do feel that the engines are a bit under-powered, but overall she exceeded my expectations - a good option for a large group on a budget. We really enjoyed the extra space and stability of the Cat (Mono last year).
- SailTMM were good to deal with as ever - will likely keep going back to them.
- Provisioning was from Bobby's - they did a nice job, but the fresh produce was a bit disappointing. In future we may just get the packaged goods from Bobby's and pick-up the fresh stuff at the nice Riteway by the marina. Also Rudy's at Great Harbour JVD has improved beyond recognition.
- Itinerary is here:
Itinerary - The whole crew loved Scrub Island - recommended as a mid-week stop to get some creature comforts.
- For me the highlight was Anegada - both the journey and the destination. Do it.
- Photos are here (hopefully the link works):
Photos - Ultimately everyone had a blast!
DetailDay 1 (6/18/13)
Travel day (yesterday) was uneventful and we arrived at Caribbean Spirit late in the day for our sleep aboard. The a/c was working and we all slept well.
This morning was preparation time - the huge food (and drink!) order arrived and was somehow stowed (good job girls), and we were on the water just after noon. Very exciting sail (strong winds!) up to Cooper Island - the teens enjoyed the splash of the waves as we plowed through. Successfully moored and then time for swimming and fabulous snorkeling, followed by grilling and chilling on the boat. Headed for the beach club and rounded the day off with a bullseye finish to take the teens down on the dartboard!
Day 2
With this kind of trip you have to be ready to take the rough with the smooth, and day 2 was definitely on the rough side! It basically rained all day, heavy in the morning and steady through the rest of the day. After a delayed start we tried to stick to the plan - sailed from Cooper to The Baths (Virgin Gorda) but the weather wasn't playing so we abandoned on the motor in and kept on sailing (double-reefed) up to North Sound in driving rain and gusty winds. 3 hours later we made it up there with a weather-beaten but good-spirited crew. Spent the afternoon killing time a little, hoping for the rain to stop, but it never did. Dinner, a bit of Texas Hold 'em and then an early night for a tired crew.
Day 3
If day 2 was a bit of a downer, then day 3 was the spectacular comeback! Early cloudy skies and heavy gusty winds gave way to sunshine by the time breakfast was cleared away, so we headed out for the long sail to Anegada. Magnificent sail in steady winds, and we were there by late morning. We all saw Anegada and instantly fell in love - a beautiful unspoiled reef island with a slow pace and lovely feel. Rented a truck for the afternoon and hit a couple of wonderful beaches - Loblolly and Cow Wreck - deserted picture-book sands with great snorkeling and characterful beach bars. Drinks/dinner and chilling on the boat. The boys went ashore for NBA game 7 but couldn't make it to the end - too tired! Our groove well and truly found today - terrific day.
Day 4
Another fabulous day in paradise. Woke up early to sunny skies in the beautiful harbour at Anegada and had a lazy start to the day with a leisurely breakfast. Got going mid-morning and headed back to The Baths (after the weather denied us on Wednesday). Did the 20 mile sail in under 3 hours with many different crew members at the helm - glorious! Swam into The Baths from the dinghy dock and walked the classic trail through the boulders - unworldly. Spent some time on the incredible beach there and did some terrific snorkeling. Walked up to the top for cocktails and the wonderful view, before motor-sailing across the channel for a late arrival at Scrub Island marina & resort. The NC State and USC Gamecocks flags we are flying instantly drew a crowd and we met a bunch of Raleigh folk and started discussing mutual friends and connections. The crew all loved the upgrade in luxury at the resort and headed straight for the showers! We were all sleepy over a late dinner, and hit the sack soon after. Feeling good ...
Day 5
The day started with a rude awakening with the sound of heavy rain on the deck followed by a mad scramble to close the portals and bring in the drying. A few coffees later the kids and I were off for a couple of dives on The Dogs - The Chimney and Joe's Cave. Very cool dives with excellent underwater landscapes and coral gardens, although the sea life was a little quiet. However I spent most of the time fighting some nasty nausea (worse than usual) - it could just be that I'm not cut out for this. Meanwhile the rest of the crew were living it up at the resort (Scrub Island), including a boat trip across the bay to Trellis Bay for shopping and sight-seeing. We joined them for a while in the hot tub, infinity pool (great view!) and swim-up bar. Quick lunch on the boat and we were off for the short sail down the north shore of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay. Winds were light and going was slow, but nobody seemed to mind. Cane Garden Bay is picture-perfect - a half-moon bay with a crescent of golden sand, and over-looked by tree-lined hills dotted with colorful houses. The boys sparked up the grill and started cooking, and the food and drink started to flow, with everybody having a fine time. After dinner went ashore to Quito's beach bar for drinks, Texas Hold 'em and Bananagrams, then back for a late night cup of tea on the boat. The girls wanted to sleep above decks, but a rain shower came through at the wrong time and killed that idea, which suited me fine! Headed for bed, tired but happy ...
Day 6
A bit of a welcome change of pace today - woke up in the lovely Cane Garden Bay to cloudy skies, and watched the rain showers come by as we drank our morning coffee. Saw a beautiful rainbow form over Jost Van Dyke. We left the ball early (with the teens still sleeping) and motored over to Diamond Cay (JVD) to look for turtles. As soon as we tied off we could see them popping up all around us, so spent a happy hour snorkeling with them (rays and small sharks too). Ate breakfast on the ball there and then motored up to the idyllic White Bay and grabbed a ball for the rest of the day and night. As we arrived the skies cleared for a perfect sunny afternoon. Dinghied around to Great Harbour with the teens to stock up. The store was briefly closed so we walked down to Foxy's for a cocktail, and even watched a bit of cricket there - a rare treat for an ex-pat! Got the shopping and headed back over to the boat, where the Mahi Mahi was on the grill for a very late lunch. Chilled and sun-bathed for the afternoon. The cocktails kept on coming and the guitar came out for a sing-song. Headed over to the Soggy Dollar Bar for painkillers and sunset, then had a hilarious all-8-in-the-dinghy ride back to the boat as a rain shower came through. More food and drink emerged from the galley and the crew was in high spirits. After dinner there was singing and dancing on the boat as we watched the full moon come up. Finished the day with some hard-core Bananagrams action before shutting things down with the obligatory cup of tea. Brilliant day.
Day 7
Our last full day saw us wake up in the fabulous White Bay on the island of Jost Van Dyke. After a few cups of coffee and some chores we were off the ball and heading out to Sandy Cay, a picture-book palm-fringed desert island. After a quick breakfast on the boat we headed ashore for some beach time and chilled in the inviting water. Took several hundred photos. Just before noon we headed back to the boat and embarked upon the long sail over to Norman Island. Good winds got us there quickly and we headed to The Caves for some more excellent snorkeling. More snacks and general larking about before we cruised into The Bight for our last anchorage. Yet more snacks/drinks (we're in use-up mode by now) and the kids messed about racing the dinghy around the bay. Dinner ashore at Pirates Bight - best restaurant meal of the week - before we headed over to the Willie T (infamous party boat) for a boogie. Wagon Wheel came on and the teens gave an absolute clinic on the Carolina Shag (which the whole party stopped to watch). Headed back to the boat to finish up the booze and start to pack.
Day 8
Our trip ended today. Up early and did the short sail back to Tortola - got there in no time thanks to great conditions. Successfully negotiated the fuel dock and marina docking. The basic showers at the marina were like a desert oasis after 3 days off the dock, and the ladies cruised the facility looking at some other yachts for future trips. Taxi/ferry to St. Thomas, lunch at the Pump Room and then headed to the airport. Flights all on time and uneventful; caught up on a little sleep.
Overall another fabulous trip in the wonderful BVI, with enough difference over last year to keep it feeling fresh. We did so much over the week that it feels like we we've been away for a month - feeling thoroughly refreshed. Over and out - thank you for listening.
