new to the forum, sorry for the delay in posting. I do already love this forum, and I hope I'll be able to contribute as much as I benefit.
This being our third annual trip to SXM, we're getting ever closer to getting it perfect, at least for us. Flying out of Boston at about 8 am gets us to SXM by 1:30, so Day 1 is by no means wasted. We are a family of three, daughter now about 11, and the private villa experience is for us the only way to travel. The last couple of years we've stayed in Baie Rouge, where the views have been beautiful and the outdoors quiet, but we decided this year to stay in Orient Beach, since we go there every day and the daily drive was carsickness inducing. The trade-off was well worth it.
After being met at the airport and led to the villa (complete with the usual welcome basket: beer, wine, milk, etc.), we were unpacked and on Bikini Beach by 2:30. It's amazing how quickly you can get into "vacation mode" when you've become familiar with your surroundings. By around 4:30, we were ready to head back to the villa for a dip in the pool...
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...then off to dinner. We tried Portofino in Grand Case, and though I won't recommend it to you, the staff was pleasant and the service fine. It's just that the food has been so much better everywhere else. Second night we went to Mario's which I'll say, contrary to some things I've read here, is not to be missed. Sitting on the water requires a 7:00 or 9:00 reservation, and it's well worth it, as the water is lit so that fish are plainly visible, and the view and ambience can't be beat. Service is impeccable as is the food. Didier, the maitre d', is peerless.
Saturday we hit Sheri's, where my daughter loves the show. The food's not great here, so it's smart to keep it simple: steack and salad, shrimp and salad...
By Sunday I was more than ready to stay close to the villa for dinner, and Tap Five Pizza was an unexpected delight. Thin crust pizza, bountiful salads, inexpensive wine at a sidewalk cafe.
Monday we did a day trip to Pinel (worth doing, especially if cruise ships are in town, as this will severely crowd Orient--but bring cash: Pinel doesn't do credit cards). That night we stayed close to home again, having delicious and inexpensive swordfish at the Fish Bar.
Tuesday night we hit an old favorite, Il Nettuno. Again, a waterside table adds to the ambience, as the gently crashing waves go perfectly with the exquisite Italian cuisine.
Each of the days (except for the Monday at Pinel) were spent on Orient Beach, at Bikini or La Playa, which are the closest thing to family-oriented spots on the beach. I don't remember which day it was, but we were there for the "solar phenomenon":
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Wednesday brought 5 cruise ships to the island, so we went to Anguilla. While I'm not sure the day trip is worth the ferry and cab rides necessary to get there, I kept telling myself that I was escaping the cruise ship crowds. Shoal Bay is a truly beautiful beach, and le Bar served a great lunch. Dinner that night, again close to the villa, was another inexpensive treat: le Piment, another great pizza place just off Orient.
Thursday we hit La Belle Epoque in Marigot, which is always fantastic. We used to go to Arhawak but the harbor has seen better days. All the places are empty and Marina Royale seems much livelier.
For Friday, our final evening, we're back to Mario's, and again, it doesn't disappoint. It did come to over $200 US, however, so be forewarned.
Saturday, our return day, was the first rain we saw all vacation. I've always believed that rain on your last day is a blessing, at least if you're leaving at 1 pm, as we were.
We look forward to our return next year, and we'll stay in the same villa. I'm hoping we see the same "beach-people", like Razmo, who sells hand-painted calabashes, and Olivia, who sells fancy belly-necklaces:
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