I was there about the same time as Ellen...We went to Pirates on both ends of a 12 day charter. Fully functional both visits. Gift shop open. The Club was vacant, but on one of our visits they were setting up for what looked like a private event. Place looks nice.
Cooper was in full swing. The rum bar moved since my 2016 visit. Lots of sea turtles on our visit. I think we were there twice too. No problem getting ball at around 1:00, but it was Nov. into Dec trip. First week of our trip (start Saturday after Thanksgiving) was pretty quiet. Picked up a little second week. This judgement is based on how many boats I see sailing in the channel on beautiful sailing days.
Not a lot going on at Saba or Bitter End from what we could see. The machinery you see in commonly used photo of Saba didn't look like it had moved much. Long way to go there. It's very odd/sad to look up at the hillside at BE and see no structures. Moorings at Sand Bar were being used. I think Sand Bar was open. Did not visit.
Leverick is fully functional. Hog Heaven was open. Love that place and the people working it.
Lots of stuff open in Great Harbor, JVD.
Trellis is rough to look at, but has a few things open. No de Loose Mongoose. The grocery up by the airport was bustling. Happening place for to go breakfast amongst locals.
Scrub was Scrub...although I don't think they were serving dinner at the outdoor restaurant by the pools yet. Some roof tiles missing. Pool was great. We did the Wednesday beach party buffet. Ambiance is wonderful...food/proteins were mostly overcooked.
Marina Cay mooring collection guy says they have everything available at the dock...water, fuel and ice. Temp restaurant of some kind...ate on the boat that night. Lot of broken, dead coral and sheet metal on the reef. Sad again.
No Christmas winds this visit, which makes my fair weather sailing wife very happy.