For those who may follow this at some point, consider flying to Tortola. We took the ferry to Cruz Bay and back from Red Hook last week. Ferries have gone up significantly in price, plus you pay separate departure taxes, which are included in airfares, as well as baggage charges. Taxi fares are high enough it was cheaper for us to rent a car from West End. Also check the fare chart - we were charged $40 for what should have been a $28 ride.

If we arrive after dark, we rent a car at the airport and stay at Maria's. We use the car the following morning to provision.

For our next trip down, we have snagged FF tickets on the new direct flight from Miami, so hoping that will even further reduce any travel stress!