Friday 7/1/11
Started the day with a trip around the square gathering up breakfast. I picked up a ham and cheese sandwich along with an almond pastry at the bakery for $4 EC. I also got some nice oranges from a stand 5 for $2 EC. Nick and I wandered down to the Hummingbird for coffee, and then went back where Nick and Mike caught up on ESPN news while I worked on my trip reports. Mike suggested a local place for lunch, just done from the church. We had stewed lamb with all the usual sides. The lamb was local and was very tender with a rich flavor that lingered after each bite, the bill for the three of us with a beer each was $61.50 EC. After lunch we headed off for our planned hike. We started out going through the section of town know as the ghetto, an assortment of shanties cobbled together from wood and tin. There was the occasional block dwelling thrown in, but they had seen better days. This area of Soufriere had been hit by slides, one house was buried on three sides and the roof was missing. The coast road was also buried under a great amount of soil, rock and debris. A foot path meandered over the piles left from Tomas until we finally passed the areas of the slides. We swam at the beach just down from Harmony Restaurant, where we had anchored with Skyelark two weeks ago. After our swim we hiked the road up to Diamond Falls to relax in the hot mineral water. A group was leaving just as we arrived so we had it all to ourselves. We spent an hour or so lying in the pools and letting the falling water massage our backs. As another group arrived we left and walked back into town. Just as the sun was beginning to set one of the Star Clipper ships was leaving Soufriere with its sails flying. We waited for it to get near the sunset for some awesome photos. After arriving back at town people were getting ready for Friday night. A woman had a grill going so we got some beef kidneys on a stick with freshly fried bakes and fish fritters, all for $6 EC. I had never eaten kidneys before, they had the taste and texture of calves liver cooked medium, very nice when wrapped in a bake with BBQ sauce. Mikes friend Tony invited us up to his place in Fonde St. Jacques, he has a small bar and guesthouse where he serves authentic local meals from fresh organic food from his gardens. We had a stew of pork, provisions and lentils. Rabbi, a local Rasta works for Tony and manages the Mt. Gimmie View Place Bar. Tony prides himself on having a bar where people can come for a drink without being bothered by beggars, a major pain in Soufriere. We shot pool and nine ball on the billiard table complete with leather pockets. There were about half a dozen local customers in the place and everyone was very friendly and interested in how we liked St. Lucia. I have been able to start to understand the Lucian dialect, but these guys spoke with a very heavy Creole accent so it was a little hard to understand them, especially as the rums went down. Tony provides transportation to and from town for anyone who would like to come out for lunch, dinner or drinks. About 11:00 pm Tony gave us a ride back town. We stopped at Sandy’s and Big Bamboo for a couple night caps and then took a well earned sleep.