We're heading down in November and hoping to do some diving. Can you dive on your own or must you go through a dive operator?

You are much better off going with an operator due to the challenge of getting to the sites. I used Scuba Steves when I visited last November and was picked up with their boat from the cruise ship dock in Castries. I believe it was about $80 for a two-tank morning dive. I had my own BC, mask, fins, etc.

Murph